Fermented feed feeder

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hennible

Crowing
5 Years
Jul 14, 2014
11,524
892
386
Central British Columbia
I was pretty turned off of fermented feed because of going out multiple times a day to dish it up for the birds. I have two flocks and two coops, 2 to open 2 to close that's enough coop trips for me. Adding in changing water, filling the feeders ( every few days ) and collecting eggs I did not feel like increasing my work load so no FF for me....
Then I had a thought after seeing this thread https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...te-5-gallon-25-feed-bucket-feeder-for-about-3 Maybe I could make a FF feeder and make my feed in it while the birds feed from them. Another down fall of FF for me was making it indoors ( ok well my husband didn't want it inside :rolleyes: ) and this feeder is taking care of all the things we didn't like about FF.
So for about a week and a half maybe two I have been using this
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The PVC price cost $6.99 CDN. With my first feeder I used a household silicone, after 5 days the seal broke ( the wet feed proved to heavy in the pipe). my second feeder, which I made the day after the first, I used a marine silicone ( $20 or so ) the bond is holding well still.... I should have ruffed up the surfaces with sand paper... Well I will next time ;)
I've used 2 kinds of FF the first is just a warm water and feed mix, the other I tossed some "critical care" probiotic mix in. The latter mix matured much faster in the cool coop temps, say 3 days the first took around 6 to develop. Now when I go out in the morning I stir it and replace the lid, every 3 or so days I need to add a bit of water to keep it moving into the PVC ( I keep a small jug of water in each coop ). Once the FF really gets going you can't keep the lid sealed tight or the build up of gas pushes the food out before it can be eaten, and makes a mess. Holes in the lid would also help this, but as the feed level gets low the gas is helpful... I'll have to do a bit of a test run and see if holes are the way to go :)

Trace and cut your hole exactly if not smaller than the size of the pipe ( I used 3" PVC) as low as you can on your bucket. Mine is about an inch from the bottom.
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Force the pipe into the hole, a flexible plastic bucket like the five gallon ice cream bucket I used makes this a bit easier... Pull the pipe into place say a half inch to an inch remaining inside the bucket. Make sure it's nice and level before you silicone it.
Run the silicone around both the external and internal seams of the hole, let it cure, and proceed with making your FF.
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Now bring it out to you birds. This feeder works for both chickens and ducks, and its low enough for my bantam hen. It's not perfect, but for me it works. During the first few days while fermentation picks up I found that a little water sits atop the feed in the feeding pipe, I scoop it out and add it back into the main bucket when I stir the feed in the morning. And if your FF mix is a bit thin, get the lid on quick so it doesn't over flow!
Any thoughts on improvement would be appreciated.:D
 
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I was pretty turned off of fermented feed because of going out multiple times a day to dish it up for the birds. I have two flocks and two coops, 2 to open 2 to close that's enough coop trips for me. Adding in changing water, filling the feeder ( every few days ) and collecting eggs I did not feel like increasing my work load so no FF for me....
Then I had a thought after seeing this thread https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...te-5-gallon-25-feed-bucket-feeder-for-about-3 Maybe I could make a FF feeder and make my feed in it while the birds feed from them. Another down fall of FF for me was making it indoors ( ok well my husband didn't want it inside
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) and this feeder is taking care of all the things we didn't like about FF.
So for about a week and a half maybe two I have been using this

The PVC price cost $6.99 CDN. With my first feeder I used a household silicone, after 5 days the seal broke, my second feeder I used a marine silicone ( $20 or so ) the bond is holding well still.
I've used 2 kinds of FF the first is just a warm water and feed mix, the other I tossed some "critical care" probiotic mix in. The latter mix matured much faster in the cool coop temps, say 3 days the first took around 6 to develop. Now when I go out in the morning I stir it and replace the lid, every 3 or so days I need to add a bit of water to keep it moving into the PVC ( I keep a small jug of water in each coop ). Once the FF really gets going you can't keep the lid sealed tight or the build up of gas pushes the food out before it can be eaten, and makes a mess. Holes in the lid would also help this, but as the feed level gets low the gas is helpful... I'll have to do a bit of a test run and see if holes are the way to go
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Trace and cut your hole exactly if not smaller than the size of the pipe ( I used 3" PVC)






Run the silicone around the both the external and internal seams of the hole, let it cure, and proceed with making your FF.


Now bring it out to you birds. This feeder works for both chickens and ducks, and its low enough for my bantam hen. It's not perfect, but for me it works. During the first few days while fermentation picks up I found that a little water sits atop the feed in the feeding pipe, I scoop it out and add it back into the main bucket when I stir the feed :Din the morning.
Any thoughts on improvement would be appreciated.
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I'll be eagerly watching to see how this works for you. I don't have enough chickens this winter to do it but I will in the spring. For both coops. Good luck. And keep posting.
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Edited: I went back and looked at the pics again. You use only the bucket and a 3" pvc shoulder pipe. Correct? And good silicone.
 
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Brilliant idea! I will have to try it come spring. If I start to ferment feed this winter, I could only feed it twice a day, not free freed as it would freeze (my prediction anyway).

I do wonder if you turned the pipe 180° would the chickens be able to reach the bottom of the pail as it empties? Or would the feed just dump out on its own
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I'll take my silly thinking hat off now...
 
Just a bucket pipe and silicone

Once the feed is level with the pipe opening it's not easy of the birds to get... The ducks can reach but not the chickens.... And then you have to add more feed so it sits at the top of the pipe, so next time I'd like to try this
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And see if it works... The pipe would have to be a "U" and I'd attach it to the centre on the bottom, then build a stand...
I think the feed would run out if I turned it to a 180 rather than a 90... It's amazing how fast the stuff feeds down and until it's nearly empty it fills up the pipe nicely
 
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I'm trying to figure out how to keep water unfrozen and ff unfrozen and not stuck on my chickens
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Let us know how it goes with a cookie tin warmer.
 
Will do... I hope it works. Or I'll be switching to dry feed for the winter. I absolutely need to keep the water open for the ducks.... Not sure if a cookie tin heater is going to be enough in -30...
 
By the area where my ducks are is an elecrical outlet, whether or not it can stay plugged in and work, I hope the ducks will be ok this winter.
 
Just a bucket pipe and silicone

Once the feed is level with the pipe opening it's not easy of the birds to get... The ducks can reach but not the chickens.... And then you have to add more feed so it sits at the top of the pipe, so next time I'd like to try this

And see if it works... The pipe would have to be a "U" and I'd attach it to the centre on the bottom, then build a stand...
I think the feed would run out if I turned it to a 180 rather than a 90... It's amazing how fast the stuff feeds down and until it's nearly empty it fills up the pipe nicely
Putting the pipe under the bucket seems to be the best option. I'd be interested in the results for this. And how quick it empties out. Good work!!!
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