Bought incubator - but chicks aren't hatching - and it's been past 21 days

terryandtracie

Hatching
Jul 28, 2015
9
0
7
Hello, I'm a first timer when it comes to incubating eggs. I bought a Hova-Bator 1602N and also purchased the device (yellow egg turner) that tilts them back and forth on a 45 degree angle. However I've gone past the 21 day mark on eggs laid by one of my Buff Cochin Bantam hens. I've candled the eggs and I see the air sack and veins and what appears to be claws and beak on some but none have started to hatch yet. The ones that should be hatching I have laying on their side in front of the rotators.
I'm attaching a photo of the incubator that shows temp and humidity (100 degrees/60 percent humidity). How will I know if they will hatch or not? Oldest egg was laid on June 24th... and today is July 28th... I just don't want to toss out an egg that is about to hatch. But I also don't want a bad egg exploding in my incubator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Hello, I'm a first timer when it comes to incubating eggs. I bought a Hova-Bator 1602N and also purchased the device (yellow egg turner) that tilts them back and forth on a 45 degree angle. However I've gone past the 21 day mark on eggs laid by one of my Buff Cochin Bantam hens. I've candled the eggs and I see the air sack and veins and what appears to be claws and beak on some but none have started to hatch yet. The ones that should be hatching I have laying on their side in front of the rotators.
I'm attaching a photo of the incubator that shows temp and humidity (100 degrees/60 percent humidity). How will I know if they will hatch or not? Oldest egg was laid on June 24th... and today is July 28th... I just don't want to toss out an egg that is about to hatch. But I also don't want a bad egg exploding in my incubator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
First off have you ever checked that thermometer for accuracy. My very first hatch was a bust because I bought that very same thermometer/hygrometer and never checked it and it was off six degrees!! I had one hatcher day 24. I see you have another (I'm guessing the one that came with the bator as well?) Do they read the same?

Staggered hatches are harder to get good hatches (on the average) because you can't provide all the eggs the optimal conditions for the duration of the hatch. (Not saying impossible, there are people that make it work.) Does the incubator have a fan or is it still air? And what did you run for humidity during the first 17 days?

If the temps have been a bit low for the duration of the hatch (99.5F for forced air - 101.5F for still air taken near the top of the eggs,) it can delay the hatch slightly. Also the humidity levels the first 17 days if too high can cause drowning and most humidity quotes for styro bators are quoted too high and cause many failed hatches as well.

If there is still movement and veining in the eggs, I would leave them and give them until at least day 23. I would keep a close eye on any hatchers though as that turner, especially when turning does pose an increased probability of chicks getting hurt, especially in the area of leg problems.
 
And:
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My replies are in parenthesis to your reply

First off have you ever checked that thermometer for accuracy (I'm using two thermometers and they both read the same). My very first hatch was a bust because I bought that very same thermometer/hygrometer and never checked it and it was off six degrees!! I had one hatcher day 24. I see you have another (I'm guessing the one that came with the bator as well?) ((yes, it came with the bator, the humidity/temp dial gauge I bought myself)) Do they read the same? (yes - thermometers read the same)

Staggered hatches are harder to get good hatches (on the average) because you can't provide all the eggs the optimal conditions for the duration of the hatch. (Not saying impossible, there are people that make it work.) Does the incubator have a fan or is it still air? (still) And what did you run for humidity during the first 17 days? (I didn't have the humidity gauge during the first 17 days. But if I were to guess humidity was probably in the 65 percentile)

If the temps have been a bit low for the duration of the hatch (99.5F for forced air - 101.5F for still air taken near the top of the eggs,) it can delay the hatch slightly. Also the humidity levels the first 17 days if too high can cause drowning (that's probably what happened, I live in the Midwest and we're experiencing high humidity right now, so even if I don't add water it's still humid in the incubator) and most humidity quotes for styro bators are quoted too high and cause many failed hatches as well.

If there is still movement and veining in the eggs (In some of the eggs I'm still seeing movement and veins and good sized air sacks), I would leave them and give them until at least day 23 (will do). I would keep a close eye on any hatchers though as that turner, especially when turning does pose an increased probability of chicks getting hurt, especially in the area of leg problems (Will do. My first thought as well. I check them ever 4 hours. If one begins to hatch I'll move it to another Styrofoam unit I'm expecting any day).

****Thank you for the reply
 
My replies are in parenthesis to your reply

First off have you ever checked that thermometer for accuracy (I'm using two thermometers and they both read the same). My very first hatch was a bust because I bought that very same thermometer/hygrometer and never checked it and it was off six degrees!! I had one hatcher day 24. I see you have another (I'm guessing the one that came with the bator as well?) ((yes, it came with the bator, the humidity/temp dial gauge I bought myself)) Do they read the same? (yes - thermometers read the same)

Staggered hatches are harder to get good hatches (on the average) because you can't provide all the eggs the optimal conditions for the duration of the hatch. (Not saying impossible, there are people that make it work.) Does the incubator have a fan or is it still air? (still) And what did you run for humidity during the first 17 days? (I didn't have the humidity gauge during the first 17 days. But if I were to guess humidity was probably in the 65 percentile)

If the temps have been a bit low for the duration of the hatch (99.5F for forced air - 101.5F for still air taken near the top of the eggs,) it can delay the hatch slightly. Also the humidity levels the first 17 days if too high can cause drowning (that's probably what happened, I live in the Midwest and we're experiencing high humidity right now, so even if I don't add water it's still humid in the incubator) and most humidity quotes for styro bators are quoted too high and cause many failed hatches as well.

If there is still movement and veining in the eggs (In some of the eggs I'm still seeing movement and veins and good sized air sacks), I would leave them and give them until at least day 23 (will do). I would keep a close eye on any hatchers though as that turner, especially when turning does pose an increased probability of chicks getting hurt, especially in the area of leg problems (Will do. My first thought as well. I check them ever 4 hours. If one begins to hatch I'll move it to another Styrofoam unit I'm expecting any day).

****Thank you for the reply
That's great you have a second bator coming. It's much easier to do staggered hatches with two bators.
Here are my thoughts on humidity control and how to know how to adjust: http://letsraisechickens.weebly.com...anuals-understanding-and-controlling-humidity
 
Excellent link you shared on the humidity. Thank you.

Problem one I believe is I have the incubator in the garage. Although I have a window A/C unit the humidity in the garage is higher than inside the house. So I'm going to move incubator inside.

Question, it's 90 degrees and about 60 percent humidity right now where I live. My hens are laying about 2 eggs a day. Should I let them build up and then start a whole new batch? And by build up do I remove two eggs a day from the coop and keep them at 70 degrees in the house until I have around 10 to start a new batch? They are not sitting on them just laying the eggs. None of the hens are broody.

Or do I put them directly in the incubator daily as they are laid and note the date?

Final, on the existing eggs I have now that have gone over the 21 day mark - some are at 30 days- just toss them? Do I crack them open to double check if there is life or just dispose of them? Although on some I think I see movement - but I'm not sure if it's the chick or just me moving the egg while candling. Not sure I want to see the chick if it died in the shell.

Appreciate your help.
 
Excellent link you shared on the humidity. Thank you.

Problem one I believe is I have the incubator in the garage. Although I have a window A/C unit the humidity in the garage is higher than inside the house. So I'm going to move incubator inside.

Question, it's 90 degrees and about 60 percent humidity right now where I live. My hens are laying about 2 eggs a day. Should I let them build up and then start a whole new batch? And by build up do I remove two eggs a day from the coop and keep them at 70 degrees in the house until I have around 10 to start a new batch? They are not sitting on them just laying the eggs. None of the hens are broody.

Or do I put them directly in the incubator daily as they are laid and note the date?

Final, on the existing eggs I have now that have gone over the 21 day mark - some are at 30 days- just toss them? Do I crack them open to double check if there is life or just dispose of them? Although on some I think I see movement - but I'm not sure if it's the chick or just me moving the egg while candling. Not sure I want to see the chick if it died in the shell.

Appreciate your help.
Yes, collect them and store them, under 70F is preferable if you can. Most people store in cartons and tilt 3xs a day. I am not a fan of staggered hatches.
30 day eggs, I would definitely toss them. (If you want to do eggtopsies, that's great, you can learn a lot, but I wouldn't want to see what condition a chick would hatch in at 30 days.) My 24 day chick from my very first hatch (bad thermometer delayed hatch) has leg problems because of the delay so I can't imagine what you'd get at day 30.
 
UPDATE:

After moving from the garage to inside the house - the Humidity is holding at 50 percent with no water in the tray. Two chicks are now pecking their way out. I took my fingernail and peeled a small section for them to breathe. They are chirping to each other. The eggs have July 4th and 5th dates. I had read somewhere the bantams take longer to hatch - but not sure if it's true or not. So I'm going to let them sit next to each other and let them peck themselves out. They seem to have some type of very thin membrane around them. Do I let them work themselves out or do I help peel back the shell more for them? Attached is a photograph. Again thanks for your help.
 
I really wish someone would answer your questions! I am a newbie so I can't offer any advice based on experience. I would say as long as they are chirping then just wait, but I thought bantams actually hatched sooner rather than later. Did the dates get mixed up maybe? Prayers for you and the babies!
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UPDATE:

After moving from the garage to inside the house - the Humidity is holding at 50 percent with no water in the tray. Two chicks are now pecking their way out. I took my fingernail and peeled a small section for them to breathe. They are chirping to each other. The eggs have July 4th and 5th dates. I had read somewhere the bantams take longer to hatch - but not sure if it's true or not. So I'm going to let them sit next to each other and let them peck themselves out. They seem to have some type of very thin membrane around them. Do I let them work themselves out or do I help peel back the shell more for them? Attached is a photograph. Again thanks for your help.
Don't help them too fast, that will kill them. Bantams generally hatch a day sooner, not later, I suspect your thermometers are off and the temp is really closer to 98 than 100. I use a digital baby thermometer to check the temp from time to time. Those are very accurate, otherwise govt action or lawsuits could ensue, something the incubator manufacturers need not worry much about.
 

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