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New Q; put eggs in a box with heat/light 30-40% hmid.temp range 80-100°.(a week ) THEN got LG incubator. It stabilized at 99.5°, but humid was 80%. Not very long. How much Flux can they take at this age? Can i drown at 3 days gest? At what day to they HAVE to be stable? Why can't you open a crack at lock down? Or remove chicks to warming box? If my hen has been on and off the 4 -3 day old others
(she has one bb chick)should I try to incubate those? She'd rather play with bb than set
Good Morning! temp range the first week is scary RANGE 80-100 have you candled these eggs since? @BG2heum
Everyones comments are pretty spot on, do you understand that you are trying to achieve a goal weight loss in the egg, so you have to watch the air cell or weigh eggs from the start to keep track of this loss.
Humidity is not a set number as said, its all about what that egg needs to achieve correct weight loss in the majority of your eggs.
Hatching Eggs 101 - BackYard Chickens Community
Does your incubator have a fan in it?
With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature.
Ok eggs in the bator...now im realizing how many dumb questions I have....help.....
Ok so I have an auto turner in my hovabator with a fan, do I need to turn the eggs ever at all? you should move them around at candle, just in case you have hot and cold spots, and try not to put any eggs in the spot near that turner motor as they do have extra heat that comes off of them. if you have to try switching that egg daily.
How do you decrease humidity in a bator? I live in south carolina, and its always humid... you may not need ANY water, @ronott1 can you add your images to show how to add water to an auto turner please? I suggest never to use the bottom wells of an incubator until lockdown, its easier to adjust using smaller containers you can take away or add, or use small sponges or tupperwaire salad cups.
Quote:And if I have chicks hatch before the others, but the others are in lock down, what do you do??? Not staggered hatch, just a day or three before and after each other kind of deal? chicks help each other hatch, if its not a staggered hatch you should leave them in until most of the hatch is complete. You want to keep the humidity stable in the incubator. If you MUST grab chicks out or must add water to the incubator while you have pips or chicks zipping, I suggest wiping the side of the bator or misting the side with warm water, NOT getting the eggs wet though. Just let the chicks and eggs alone. Chicks clicking and peeping helps the others to hatch, there are many articles on this and how this actually works! pretty cool how they communicate to each other! So try to always leave chicks in the bator to help the others hatch! or your hatch may drag on and on! TRY TO AVOID staggered hatches, build a hatcher!!! see my signature, I swear by cooler bators! thats all I use and so easy and cheap to make!! and you have plenty of us here should you have questions if you make one!
28 eggs in the bator.....im aiming for 20 hatched but I dont know how many are even fertile so ill be happy if one hatches lol AIM FOR 28!!!!!
YUP its nice to see who is pipped and when!!Next hatch I do, I am going to mark air sacs, and mark where the chick is faced to pip. I think it will cut down on the unknown.
most times they do pip a bit early!!Hello everyone! I am new to incubating and i am on day 18 we are in lockdown!!! I have 5 eggs of 2 silkies, 1 silkie/cochin mix, 1 maran cross, and a light brown surprise egg. I'm using a FarmInnovator incubator with current readings at 64% humidity and 100degrees. I have a spinge with water and a wet rag in the bator to keep humidity up.
From advice I had found with the Bantams in the mix (hatching earlier), I actually locked down yesterday around 5 pm. Will the bantams actually pip earlier?
Any suggestions on the next couple days? I'm trying to occupy myself but have a hard time walking away.
my advise
keep your hands off lol.
if a chick pips 99% of the time it will get out, DONT PICK THE PIP DONT PICK THE PIP
THIS IS GREAT ADVISE!!!If those cemani eggs were spendy you may want to consider buying or making a second incubator/hatcher. If not, at least separate the eggs so the silkie chicks don't walk all over and poop on the other eggs. That's a lot of time for bacteria to grow. Does anyone think the incubator would need to be cleaned between hatches too?
WELCOME!!!!!Cynthia12 invited me over to this tread. I'm pretty new to chickens. This will be only my second time incubating. I was going to wait until spring when hopefully my quail or Cream Legbars are laying but I won 12 Bielefelder eggs on eBay today. So I'm going to try this hatching thing again. I do have a small brooder coop and run. And also a Barn so hopefully I can keep the chicks that hatch warm through the cold months. I've chosen Cream Legars and Bielefelders to breed. I like the idea of auto sexing at birth. But I'm still pretty new so I may change my mind later.
oh you will change your mind and the chicken math with catch uphow did you do with your first time incubating?