French frogs - Page 1246
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How would you feel if I went and edited my other posts and added abcdefg. I'm that juvenile...
Have at it. Still limits the search results
Nope, not mals... actually had my first in Calls today, and it even managed to internal pip but drowned due to liquid and position...
But what if the other liquid? Its not jelly, just wet and turns to epoxy in seconds... thought that was meaning too low humidity?
I do open the bator frequently up to lockdown, so cool air does get across the eggs especially when I mist...
And I don't want to go below 20%...
I dont think your wet embryos/chicks come from low humidity Rav, never go below 18% is what is recommended.
When they have those changes in the albumen from high humidity, they of course lack of weight loss and as the air hits that stuff its like that rubber cement glue we all had in school, that sniffer glue. As far as the yellow jelly or jello I think its more from the residual yolk sac not absorbing as it should with high humidity and then a last bout of trying to dry them out before hatch. After setting in the incubator, temperature, turning, humidity, ventilation changes the densities of albumen, yolk and subembryonic fluid and ALSO the viscosity of the liquid albumen and that all starts around day 2 of incubation when it starts to develop and surround the yolk.
There are two types of sticky chicks
Sticky embryos (embryos may be smeared with egg contents / yolk residual present)
causes: any/all combination of the following:
high average incubation humidity
low incubation temperature
lack of sufficient ventilation
too many drafts of outside air in the hatcher
BREED ISSUES: Always avoid cross breeding in breeds that carry lethal genes.
are we aware of Lethal genes for this breed of duck Rav?
Embryos sticking or adhering to shell
causes: in any/all combination of the following:
Low incubation humidity (especially during hatching)
Excessive ventilation~ reduce rate but maintain minimum air exchange to prevent suffocation of embryos.
TEMPERATURE: Changes in temps during incubation result in losses. Incubation temperature is one the most critical factors during embryo developement, AGAIN studies have shown the optimum temperature is more 99.9. NOT FORGETTING that also its optimal to drop in temps during hatch, as I suggest in my article Hatching Eggs 101 in the lower day 18 section. So it may be worth a shot for you, and I am not clear on your temps or calibration, Hammond found that a bit higher incubation temps increase chick initial body weight believe it or not, at the higher temp 99.9 the higher the rate of egg water loss in the first 16 days of incubation. What I have found is when I incubate at a slightly elevated temp 100 to 100.5 calibrated I have much cleaner hatches. They found that its the opposite with low temps, body weight of chicks were less. Then you get into the additional factors of adding low high temps with humidity and ventilation.... Best we can do is work these areas to achieve absolute and relative weights. IN KNOWING THAT and then factor in that EACH EGG & breeds are different in age, air cell size, genetics etc.
I had the same issue last year with turkey poults. I lost so many to yellow glue. But I had too many variables to figure out the cause for sure, but it was worse when I knew there was a temp spike that may have changed the proteins in the albumen. I also saw two other contributing factors. If humidity was too high, there was still a lot of albumen at hatch time and the poult could not consume it all before internal pip, and the air cell was proportionately small. When hatches were late with small chicks and lots of liquid it was pretty much a guarantee that the poults would be DIS or glued if assisted. If I adjusted temp and humidity so that the poults were 2/3 egg size and air cells 1/3 egg size and no visible liquid, then the hatches were successful. That was too much of a gamble in the EZ-Bakes and even the redwood Leahy, hence the GQFs and Brinseas.
I gotta replace the thermostat in my Leahy, temps went low the last batch I tried in it... that sucked, 4 days of monitoring the Calls from that... they're super imprinted though, lol...
My Genesis are rock solid stable for temps, I love those stupid styros, lol... but think I want to try the ReptiBator I have... the outer plexi got a hole popped in it, but I'm gonna epoxy it back up and give it a try... at this point, I don't think it'll hurt...
OOOOhhhh I should have read this through! solid temps are a must as I typed above! i should have read these in complete before heading down in a line! see what I said above about temp flux.
What is a reptibator Rav?