How do I keep my duck pond clean?

Very cool and now it all makes sense.  The external plan I had been thinking of combined the swirl stage and the bacteria stage.  I see where keeping those separate is probably a better idea!!  So for the size of the pond you're using, 5 gallon buckets enough?  I see Lowes in my immediate future today I think!!!
Thanks for the great explanation and the photos!!  Fantastic!!


I have a tiny pond (sub 100 gallons) with two ducks so those buckets are enough. The new pond I need to build (for my new hatchlings) I may use a bigger bucket for the swirly, but the bacteria and clarification will be fine. It all comes down to how often you want to clean the swirly and by extension the clarifier if the swirly gets full and some detritus gets through
 


Yes! When I first joined! This pen is the inspiration for what I am currently building

400
 
Sure, the swirl filter is essentially a bucket in which you pump water into the bottom of the bucket at an angle. Because the pipe is angled, the water will "swirl" up to the top where a bulkhead fitting will be and flow into your bacteria stage. The poop, being heavier than the water, settles at the bottom and needs to be cleaned out weekly.

Confusing? Hold on here's a picture, it sounds way more complicated than it is.

This is the inside of the bucket. As you can see the water exiting the contraption will have no choice but to swirl. You don't have to have one as elaborate as this, even a pipe with a single 90 or 45 elbow will do.



This is the output of my bacteria filter showing what the bulkhead fittings look like. The swirl has an identical output.



Simple gravity moves the water from one stage to the other. The swirl filters output (on the left) is piped to the bottom of the bacteria filter (on the right)



Some notes:

The swirl filter operates better when the water moves slowly otherwise it won't be as effective. Oversize your bulkhead fittings so you reduce the pressure, but not the flow, in your swirly.

Now that the solid material has been filtered out, your clarification filter should need less service.

Put a drain (using a bulkhead fitting) in your swirly, that way you can drain the detritus and reduce the cleanings required.

Drain:

Hi! I just came across this thread trying to solve the same problems. I have 3 geese, 5 black-bellied whistling ducks and 3 rouens. I have 2 250 liter molded plastic ponds and am at the point where I need to figure out a better solution for the cleaning. My issue is water waste as I'm off the grid and only have rain collected water that I have to share between us and the bird pools.

Your set up makes sense to me, but how do you pump the dirty water into the first bucket? This is the biggest problem I have (my pump kept getting mucked up) and now I'm trying to figure out how to gravity feed the dirty water and pump the clean water.

Any thoughts?
Thanks for your help!

IronEagle
 
Hi! I just came across this thread trying to solve the same problems. I have 3 geese, 5 black-bellied whistling ducks and 3 rouens. I have 2 250 liter molded plastic ponds and am at the point where I need to figure out a better solution for the cleaning. My issue is water waste as I'm off the grid and only have rain collected water that I have to share between us and the bird pools.

Your set up makes sense to me, but how do you pump the dirty water into the first bucket? This is the biggest problem I have (my pump kept getting mucked up) and now I'm trying to figure out how to gravity feed the dirty water and pump the clean water.

Any thoughts?
Thanks for your help!

IronEagle

Hi IronEagle!

Yes, this was a huge problem I had as well and I have a pile of dead pumps to prove it. What you need (there's a pump thread I created somewhere) is a dirty water pond pump that can handle solid material. IMPORTANT NOTE: A dirty water pond pump is not the same thing as a sewage pump that you might get from Home Depot, Lowes of harbor freight. Those pumps have lubricant that is lethal to everything if they leak. Typically these pumps are for Koi ponds (as Koi are very poopy fish) and are safe for fish/ducks etc.

Here is what you are looking for and the models that I bought.

Pump for my small pond (I got the model 4000)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=29949

Pump for my big pond

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UNBNFK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Now a word on these pumps. I would swear under oath that these pumps came off the same assembly line, they are identical. That makes little difference for your purposes but its much easier to buy from Amazon.

To make a looooong story short, my small pond pump does wonderfully however if I was to do it over again I would go with the next bigger model (the amazon link). The larger pump draws more power but can handle solid material twice the size of the small guy. The small pump will clog every few days or so and is just not designed for the load of six ducks in a tiny pond. (The ducks don't go in the big pond much, go figure)

To conclude, there are many pump options to go with, both submersible and external, but the bottom line is you need a dirty water pond pump, the rest is up to you!!! (The direction I went was the cheapest by far)
 
One other thing..........I am still working on pre-filter options for my ponds, but here is what is currently working the best for me for muck free operation, which I believe was your original question. Grab a filter bag from Home depot or Amazon, put a brick in it and then place the pump on top of the brick. The most important thing is to keep the pump intake off the bottom of the pond where all the sediment is, so elevating the pump slightly and having a pre screen filter (the bag) keeps the pump intake clear.

Yes the DW pump I recommended above can handle it but this makes for totally muck free operation.

http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Pump-Filter-Bag-Large/dp/B005ORE2R6

@IronEagle
 
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