New York mini chickenstock 2016

We had rooster in the crock pot today too, hubby then turned it into chicken and biscuits. Yum!
oh yum!! I have some 12 week Olds, they are decent sized and hubby wants to know if they should be OK for grilling? It will take 2 to feed us but after eating Bob it's worth the work and money to eat fresh.
 
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@boskelli1571 The General loves assisting me with evening chores of feeding rabbits and the cat.
 
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this is Luna perched in her tree watching to make sure no furry critters get HER chickens. Mind you, there is a morning dove in a nest WITH babies not 2 feet from her. This cat is crazy.
 
Tonight The General and his 2 tiny wife's decided it was time to start mixing groups. The 3 of them waited until I was opening the brooder for the 3 week Olds and flew in and perched with them. It was so cute. I guess tomorrow I let the babies out to mingle for a few. Or do I introduce the teens out to the bigs first? Then give the babies the teens coop?

Sorry this is my first first time with multiple flocks of multiple aged.
 
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I recently let all ages mingle from their separate coops. They honestly didn't mingle much and all went home to their respective coops at the end of the day. I do have to rearrange living arrangements and will keep them penned up for the day after I move them so they don't return to the previous home.
 
Play, quarrel, run away, yes. I have chicks as young as 6 weeks and adults as old as 3. There are three separate coops. The food arrangement is the toughest part to manage. They all seem to want to eat what the others are having. I won't do it much longer, as I want to separate the Brabanters and I'm trying to help one of the Brabs recover from wry neck, but the different groups tend to protect each other and stick together. I have a total of 32 chickens until I process the 3 meaties.

I have two EE cockerels (CCL x Brabanter or Ameraucana) that are very pretty, but are now over 2 months old and ready to be listed for sale. I should get on that...
 
Play, quarrel, run away, yes. I have chicks as young as 6 weeks and adults as old as 3. There are three separate coops. The food arrangement is the toughest part to manage. They all seem to want to eat what the others are having. I won't do it much longer, as I want to separate the Brabanters and I'm trying to help one of the Brabs recover from wry neck, but the different groups tend to protect each other and stick together. I have a total of 32 chickens until I process the 3 meaties.

I have two EE cockerels (CCL x Brabanter or Ameraucana) that are very pretty, but are now over 2 months old and ready to be listed for sale. I should get on that...
as of chickenstock I have 40 chickens and a duck. As of the 20th who knows what I will have. I have 41 in the bator and Saturday I'm starting set 2 in bator 2. So after work tomorrow I will open coops and runs and let the party start.
 
my husband was trying to be nice and give it a treat and all we had was the cracked corn. Lesson learned unfortunately at bunnies demise.

I was just reading through some info I had. Here is what it said... Hope it helps..

FRESH VEGETABLES

You may have heard it from a breeder, pet store owner, or even a veterinarian who is not as familiar with recent rabbit health information as one might hope: Fresh vegetables will give your rabbit "diarrhea." Nothing could be further from the truth than this old myth. In fact, fresh greens help keep intestinal contents hydrated, which makes them easier for the bunny to pass. Trace nutrients, fiber, and just plain old tastiness are other benefits of fresh greens. After all, what do you suppose wild rabbits eat?
Fresh, moist greens are about as important as hay in maintaining a healthy intestine. Try broccoli, dark leaf lettuces, kale, parsley, carrots (with tops!), endive, escarole, dill, basil, mint, cilantro, culantro, spinach, tomato, celery (cut up into 1" pieces, to avoid problems with the tough strings getting stuck on the molars!). Almost any green, leafy vegetable that's good for you (including fresh-grown garden herbs such as tarragon and various mints, with the exception of Pennyroyal) are good for a rabbit. Experiment and see which types your rabbit likes best! Rabbits love fresh, fragrant herbs fresh from the garden.
Give starchy vegetables (e.g., carrots) in moderation, and use bits of fruit only in very, very small quantities, as special treats. Too much sugar and starch can cause cecal dysbiosis, and all its associated problems.
Baby rabbits may start receiving greens very gradually at the age of about two months. Add one item at a time, in small amounts, and if you see no intestinal upset, add another. Carrots, romaine lettuce and kale are good starters. A five pound adult rabbit should receive at least four heaping cups of fresh, varied (at least three different kinds each day) vegetables per day. Be sure to wash everything thoroughly to remove pesticide and fertilizer residues as much as possible. Even organic produce should be washed well to remove potentially harmful bacteria, such as E. coli.
Serve the vegetables wet, as this will help increase your rabbit's intake of liquid. This helps keep the intestinal contents moving well, and the bunny healthy.
Please don't make the mistake of serving less-than-fresh vegetables to your rabbit. A rabbit is even more sensitive to spoiled food than a human is. If the vegetables smell stale or "on the fringe", they could make your bunny sick. Follow the Emerald Rule of Freshness when feeding your rabbit friend: "Don't Feed it to Your Bunny if You Wouldn't Eat it Yourself."



FRESH FRUIT?

These are considered treats, and should be fed in very limited quantities (no more than two tablespoons a day for a five pound rabbit!), if at all. Safe choices are apple, apricot, banana, cherries, mango, peach, plum, papaya, pineapple, apricot, berries....just about any fruit you would like is okay for your bunny. Be very careful not to overdo these treat foods, as they may promote cecal dysbiosis, other intestinal problems and create a desire in the bunny to eat treats instead of his/her normal, healthy foods.
DON'T FEED POTENTIALLY HARMFUL "TREATS"

Remember: a rabbit is a lagomorph, not a rodent or a primate. The rabbit digestive tract is physiologically more similar to that of a horse than to that of a rodent or primate, and the intestine and related organs can suffer from an overindulgence in starchy, fatty foods.
NEVER feed your rabbit commercial "gourmet" or "treat" mixes filled with dried fruit, nuts and seeds. These may be safe for a bird or hamster--BUT THEY ARE NOT PROPER FOOD FOR A RABBIT. The sole function of "rabbit gourmet treats" is to lighten your wallet. If the manufacturers of "gourmet rabbit treats" truly cared about your rabbit's health and longevity, they would not market such products.
Don't feed your rabbit cookies, crackers, nuts, seeds, breakfast cereals (including oatmeal) or "high fiber" cereals. They may be high fiber for you, but not for your herbivorous rabbit, who's far better able to completely digest celluose ("dietary fiber") than you are. Fed to a rabbit, the high fat and simple carbohydrate content of "naughty foods" may contribute to fatty liver disease, cecal dysbiosis, obesity, and otherwise cause health problems.


A SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT CORN AND OTHER SEEDS

Some types of seeds (especially things like "Canadian peas" and corn kernels) have hulls that are indigestible to a rabbit, and can cause life-threatening intestinal impactions/blockages.
Corn, fresh or dried, is NOT safe for rabbits. The hull of corn kernels is composed of a complex polysaccharide (not cellulose and pectin, of which plant cell walls are more commonly composed, and which a rabbit can digest) which rabbits cannot digest. We know of more than one rabbit who suffered intestinal impactions because of the indigestible corn hulls. After emergency medical treatment, when the poor rabbits finally passed the corn, their fecal pellets were nearly solid corn hulls! Those rabbits were lucky.
 

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