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Egg efficiency in the winter? - Page 2

post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by frog3toad View Post

Sounds low to me.
I have light and supplemental heat

If you really want eggs, supplemental light is the way to go.

 

 

How could this possibly apply to me? My question was specifically regarding egg laying without supplemental light.

post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aart View Post
 

I'd bet there's a big pile out here somewhere...another disadvantage to free ranging and smaller confinement areas.

 

Well this kind of applies to my question. I did recently find a pile of about 20 eggs, that 3 hens had been laying for a week or so. I built them some more nesting boxes and they're using those now. If I'm getting 40 eggs / day at this time of year, and have 70 hens... are 30 eggs / day being laid somewhere else?

post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desp View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aart View Post
 

I'd bet there's a big pile out here somewhere...another disadvantage to free ranging and smaller confinement areas.

 

Well this kind of applies to my question. I did recently find a pile of about 20 eggs, that 3 hens had been laying for a week or so. I built them some more nesting boxes and they're using those now. If I'm getting 40 eggs / day at this time of year, and have 70 hens... are 30 eggs / day being laid somewhere else?

Umm, yeah, probably.

Just because you put up more nests doesn't mean they all will use them.

Free range birds sometimes need to be 'trained'(or re-trained) to lay in the coop nests, especially new layers. Leaving them locked in the coop for 3-4 days can help 'home' them to lay in the coop nests. They can be confined to coop 24/7 for a few days to a week, or confine them at least until mid to late afternoon. You help them create a new habit and they will usually stick with it. ..at least for a good while, then repeat as necessary.

 

Great article on VENTILATION, one of THE MOST IMPORTANT aspects of coop design.

Fantastic treatise to help decide how much SPACE your chickens need.

 

Chicken math is not just 'addition'...but also should include Division, Multiplication and especially Subtraction!!!

 

Quoting centrarchid:

"Make every effort to understand your chicken's biology and the environment that supports it."

Reply

Great article on VENTILATION, one of THE MOST IMPORTANT aspects of coop design.

Fantastic treatise to help decide how much SPACE your chickens need.

 

Chicken math is not just 'addition'...but also should include Division, Multiplication and especially Subtraction!!!

 

Quoting centrarchid:

"Make every effort to understand your chicken's biology and the environment that supports it."

Reply
post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desp View Post
 

 

Well this kind of applies to my question. I did recently find a pile of about 20 eggs, that 3 hens had been laying for a week or so. I built them some more nesting boxes and they're using those now. If I'm getting 40 eggs / day at this time of year, and have 70 hens... are 30 eggs / day being laid somewhere else?


Possibly some but not 30. You won't get 70 eggs a day from 70 hens even if they're leghorns or RIRs in June let alone January.

It takes more than 24 hours to build an egg.

The top Hy Line hybrids only get 95% at peak production. They get 340 to 370 eggs in their first 80 weeks.

NPIP 43-813

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.

Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”                  Mark Twain

Reply

NPIP 43-813

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.

Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”                  Mark Twain

Reply
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