Hands on hatching and help

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Oh and BTW @Blooie , that is one of the silkies from Ruby...lol
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Blooie said:
Oh, Amy, they are so doggone cute! Hang on to the photo of the "Dancing Queen"....might be just the perfect entry in some contest to win you some eggs! (Ask me how I know about winning eggs!)
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x2! Awesome pic Amy!

AmyLynn2374 said:
I disagree. Each assist is different and should be treated as such. And the reasoning for assist will play a big part of the chances of the chicks. Thus the reason for the thread, for people who are hands on and want to help and find the best way possible to help.

That's an excellent pic of chick still in membrane.

I am supposed to do another hatch with these green eggs for my sister. I was going to throw some Spitz in for her too, but after seeing how hard it is for the eggs from my second nn is too loose moisture, I am only setting the greens and running completely dry.
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Thanks, I was glad to see that the pic turned out well. It was pretty cool to see, I must say.

AmyLynn2374 said:
Maybe I'd have a better chance entering it if you did it...lol
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AmyLynn2374 said:
I disagree. Each assist is different and should be treated as such. And the reasoning for assist will play a big part of the chances of the chicks. Thus the reason for the thread, for people who are hands on and want to help and find the best way possible to help.

That's an excellent pic of chick still in membrane. 

I am supposed to do another hatch with these green eggs for my sister. I was going to throw some Spitz in for her too, but after seeing how hard it is for the eggs from my second nn is too loose moisture, I am only setting the greens and running completely dry.
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It can be really hard to hatch eggs of different colors and different sizes, since light eggs seem to lose weight faster, and dark eggs lose slower.

I avoid putting my green EE eggs in with my Orloffs since my green eggs do better at a lower humidity. Just makes it easier to have a more uniform hatch.
 
RubyNala97 said:
That's amazing that it hatched! I've had several cracked eggs that I've incubated. The ones that were cracked and sealed pre-incubation always developed but then quit due to bacteria. The ones that cracked during incubation made it. That egg survived against all odds!
How many more days do the Turkey moms have on the eggs? It would be awesome if you could leave the poult with the mom if it could have access to food and water but with them being up on the tarps that would be hard. I don't know anything about turkeys so I wouldn't suggest moving them. Hmmm...what are you gonna do?
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I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. I really do wanna leave him out there with his mom (I'm pretty sure it's a he cos he has a really boxy head). But, being up so high scares me too. By the time he gets strong enough to fly I think he'll be fine out there but until then I guess I'm just gonna coop him up with the ducks. The weather is supposed to be in the 70s for the rest of the week so I am gonna go ahead and lock all the babies up inside their new house in the run with a heat lamp inside at night. Hope they don't get ascared over night, LOL.
 
AmyLynn2374 said:
Ok, so I knew last night that one of the remaining 2 green eggs were gone. It didn't look right and there was a clear spot at the bottom that shouldn't have been there so I decided to open the top. Oh yeah. It died before absorbing the yolk and is filled with excess fluid, (which I expected). Well I tilted it so I could see down the side and the little guy had pipped upside down-right into all that fluid. He didn't have a chance. I haven't done a full eggtopsy yet because my son likes to do them with me and he was asleep, so we'll be doing that here in a few.

I decided to investigate the other egg and candle that to see what I could see and when I picked it up there was a beak sticking out of the bottom! At first I though it had broke through and died, but when I touched the beak it moved, so I widened it, made sure the beak was clear of the excess fluid and turned it so the egg was upside down but the chick was right side up and put it in a cut down carton. Hopeing some of the fluid will now evaporate and he'll have a chance. He seems REAL strong, so I am pulling for him. Doesn't look like a nn though.

All but one Spitz is out and in the brooder. 4 silkies out , 8 pipped 2 not doing anything. And the 2 that hatched from the green eggs. So 12 in the brooder and hoping to add another 10 before it's over. Halfway into day 20, so another 24+ hours before hatch day has come and gone.
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I got some pics in the brooder so they are on their way. Still have some fluffing up to do, but these guys are awesome. Thank you so much @RubyNala97 ! These little ones are so sweet!
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Good luck! That was what happened to one of my anconas and after having a tough time hatching and having to assist him he made it. He's still doing just fine for now so hopefully yours will follow suit!
 
AmyLynn2374 said:
I disagree. Each assist is different and should be treated as such. And the reasoning for assist will play a big part of the chances of the chicks. Thus the reason for the thread, for people who are hands on and want to help and find the best way possible to help.
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It is better to let the chick live then have kulled it your self. If blood veins are present do not help the chick any longer. Unfortunately i had to learn this the hard way several times being so stubborn. I feel that if the chick does move it will be perfectly fine. However if it has not hatched within 24 hours of breaking the shell to make a whole i would suggest further help as needed. My mother hen who has 100% hatch rate did have 1 die because i had help it too much. it does make me sad that i did cull it but i believe that if the chick does move it will not need any more help. The one i did help had bleed to death because i had helped it. Every situation is different but needs to be handled carefully and to the best of ability. The chick will be very fragile at this stage so it is best to leave it be when it does hatch until it dries off. When the chick dries off and is not moving much still i would recommend getting it vitamin water and food mesh with warm water mixed in. It is also helpful to keep an eye on other chicks so that they do not cull it. This had also happend to one the other chicks had broken its neck by running all over it.
 
FridayYet said:
It can be really hard to hatch eggs of different colors and different sizes, since light eggs seem to lose weight faster, and dark eggs lose slower.

I avoid putting my green EE eggs in with my Orloffs since my green eggs do better at a lower humidity. Just makes it easier to have a more uniform hatch.
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Yes, As soon as I recieved Ruby's eggs I knew putting the 4 lg greens I had collected were going to be risky. I've had real good luck doing different mixes/breeds so far, but they've all been close in size and shell quality. This one really was an obvious chance. One I will not do again.

James Beller said:
It is better to let the chick live then have kulled it your self. If blood veins are present do not help the chick any longer. Unfortunately i had to learn this the hard way several times being so stubborn. I feel that if the chick does move it will be perfectly fine. However if it has not hatched within 24 hours of breaking the shell to make a whole i would suggest further help as needed. My mother hen who has 100% hatch rate did have 1 die because i had help it too much. it does make me sad that i did cull it but i believe that if the chick does move it will not need any more help. The one i did help had bleed to death because i had helped it. Every situation is different but needs to be handled carefully and to the best of ability. The chick will be very fragile at this stage so it is best to leave it be when it does hatch until it dries off. When the chick dries off and is not moving much still i would recommend getting it vitamin water and food mesh with warm water mixed in. It is also helpful to keep an eye on other chicks so that they do not cull it. This had also happend to one the other chicks had broken its neck by running all over it.
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An assist shouldn't be done before 18-24 hours and IF ONLY the veining has retracted in the membrane. To do it before is a death sentence for the chick. I have only had one assist not make it to full grown healthy chicken and that chick lived 9 days, but had digestive issues. Knock on wood, I have never had to cull an assist. And movement does not assure that it'll be fine, especially in the case of malepositioned. I had one chick that was a #5 maleposition. It would have never made it w/o an assist due to the positioning. She ended up being a healthy happy member of the flock, one of my top egg producers.

I always use sav a chick in the water for the first 2-3 days after hatch. I think the electrolytes benefit all the chicks.

You said if it has not hatched w/in 24 hours of breaking the shell to make a hole...another guideline I set for myself, they do the pipping themselves. It is a rare case that I would recommend taking that step.

However, this thread is not a place to debate whether assisting should be done, it is a thread for those of us that do choose to assit to be able to do so.
 

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