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Classes of wormers

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

I will only post about the first 3 classes because I don't believe 4 &5 are of much use.  This is from the guinea forum yrs ago.

 

Class I anthelmintics

: Benzimidazoles and pro-

benzimidazoles. These drugs exert their action on the

intracellular polymerization of the tubulin molecules to

microtubules. As the cellular functions are disrupted, the

worms die. Examples of Class I compounds are

albendazole, thiabendazole, fenbendazole, parbendazole,

flubendazole, febantel, and thiophanate. Here is what to

buy to use this class, Valbazen, Panacur or Safeguard. I

buy the Safeguard 10% suspension from TSC (goat

wormer) and use 2.5cc/gallon of drinking water. This class

of anthelmintics is best for gapeworm; the other classes

don't work too well for gapeworm.

Class II anthelmintics

: Imidazothiazoles and

tetrahydropyrimidines. These drugs act on the

acetylcholine receptor in the neuromuscular system of the

worms causing a persistent depolarization of muscle cells

and a spastic paralysis of the worms, which are then

removed by gut motility. Examples of Class II drugs are

levamisole, pyrantel, and morantel. Here is what to buy to

use this class wormer. TSC sells Tramisol or Levamisole

in a powder. It is in a 20 oz. bottle that contains just a little

powder. You are supposed to fill the bottle with water and

then use the mixed concentrate to add to the drinking

water. The mixed solution is good for 3 months. I wouldn't

use that much concentrate in years. I use 1/4

teaspoon/gallon of drinking water for three days. The

actual dosage is supposed to be closer to 1/3 of a

teaspoon, but you can overdose your birds with this one.

You can overdose with them all, but this one can be very

dangerous.

Class III anthelmintics

: Avermectins and milbymicins.

The compounds act on the nervous system of the worms,

causing flaccid paralysis and removal by gut motility. Class

III consists of two distinct types of drugs, i.e. the erazines

and the avermectins (ivermectin, doramectin, moxidectin),

the latter having effects against some ectoparasites, e.g.

mange mites. Most people use the ivermectin from this

class. Many use the ivermectin injectable and put

5cc/gallon of water. I use Eqvalan,

which is the same

ingredient as the ivermectin injectable, but it is water-

soluble. Same dosage, 5cc/gallon of drinking water.

As you can see, not all wormers will kill all kinds of worms.

When giving wormers it is best to remove their water

supply about midday the day before you are going to give it

to them. The next day mix up the wormer and give it to

your birds (this works best for me). That way they are

thirsty and will get a good bit right off the bat.

If you are going to give orally make sure you do not drown

the bird.

Draw the wormer in the syringe and then draw

some water to mix with it  I hold the bird between my legs facing outward. Open

the beak and with a syringe with a 3” piece of

aquarium air tubing on the

end of it stick it down the

throat on the right side of the trachea; then administer

dosage

post #2 of 9
Lots of issues with the dosing info...

-Kathy
post #3 of 9
Im getting my popcorn ready.🍿

Gerald Barker
post #4 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by barkerg View Post

Im getting my popcorn ready.🍿

Gerald Barker

Haven't enough peas died from this Safeguard and ivermectin thing? Do I really need to go find all the posts, studies and pictures again?

-Kathy
post #5 of 9
http://goatspots.com/articles/deworming-1/

Missing from that list is piperazine (Wazine and Pig Swig)

-Kathy
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by casportpony View Post

Haven't enough peas died from this Safeguard and ivermectin thing? Do I really need to go find all the posts, studies and pictures again?

-Kathy

Ive changed my worming techniques so I agree.

@Trefoil not trying to step on your toes but Ive gotta chime in with some info in regards to Safeguard that I learned from right here at BYC.

The old school method I was using went out the window after joining BYC and reading the great info that can be found here. What really changed my mind is the fecal float thread and I must thank the people who have put a lot of time and money in helping others by getting the right info out. I no longer use the 3cc safeguard to 1gl of water as it does just settle to the bottom of the waterer as it is NOT water soluble and it takes a tremendous amount to get a good ratio an adult pea needs. I have since switched to Valbazen which is water soluble and I use 6cc to 1gl for 5 days with a repeat 10 days later, I primarily raise Greens so catching them is not even considered so meds in waterers are a must and Ive had no issues so far. I keep the safeguard handy for birds that might get ill and need some down the throat but I no longer mix it in the water. This is what works for me.

Gerald Barker
Edited by barkerg - 3/30/16 at 1:46pm
post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 

Sorry about that.   I didn't even look at the dosage info before posting, although I did point out that it was years out of date, which doesn't make any difference in the information on classes.

post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trefoil View Post

Sorry about that.   I didn't even look at the dosage info before posting, although I did point out that it was years out of date, which doesn't make any difference in the information on classes.
Still very good info.👍.

Gerald Barker
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trefoil View Post

Sorry about that.   I didn't even look at the dosage info before posting, although I did point out that it was years out of date, which doesn't make any difference in the information on classes.

Good info about the different classes. big_smile.png

-Kathy
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