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Can I Use Chicken Coop Hay/Poop in my Garden? - Page 2

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 

So if I am understanding correctly, I can't use the straw/poop from this past winter for this summers garden? Sorry, so new to all this, just had my first garden last summer and thought I could somehow use my chicken poop/straw for this summer?

post #12 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentuckyrain View Post

So if I am understanding correctly, I can't use the straw/poop from this past winter for this summers garden? Sorry, so new to all this, just had my first garden last summer and thought I could somehow use my chicken poop/straw for this summer?
if you go by the local garden center and get a compost booster it will be able to be used in a couple of weeks. It is a bit spendy but will compost the pile up quickly without needing to add anything else. Not sure of the name or brand.
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post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BertandMary View Post


if you go by the local garden center and get a compost booster it will be able to be used in a couple of weeks. It is a bit spendy but will compost the pile up quickly without needing to add anything else. Not sure of the name or brand.

I'll check into that, thank you!

post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentuckyrain View Post
 

So if I am understanding correctly, I can't use the straw/poop from this past winter for this summers garden? Sorry, so new to all this, just had my first garden last summer and thought I could somehow use my chicken poop/straw for this summer?

I'm not an expert, just a hobby poop analyst, but you should be able to use the bedding after about 120 days. Based on my experience and reading that's about how long it takes for the ammonia to dissipate and any pathogens to die off (starve) from lack of food. The nitrogen level will still be quite high but if you don't over-due it and till it in good I'd think you'll be ok. Of course it'd be best if the carbon content broke down further via composting but I try not to over-think this stuff too much. If I were you I'd go ahead and use it after 120 days.

post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejcrist View Post

I'm not an expert, just a hobby poop analyst, but you should be able to use the bedding after about 120 days. Based on my experience and reading that's about how long it takes for the ammonia to dissipate and any pathogens to die off (starve) from lack of food. The nitrogen level will still be quite high but if you don't over-due it and till it in good I'd think you'll be ok. Of course it'd be best if the carbon content broke down further via composting but I try not to over-think this stuff too much. If I were you I'd go ahead and use it after 120 days.
the main reason to compost it down at tgis point is to kill the seeds from the straw or hay.
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post #16 of 17

Composting the manure before applying it to the garden will do a number of things.

 

When you compost you;

 

- Bring the Nitrogen (N) level of the manure down to a level that wont burn (kill) the plants.

- Changing the N from a soluble form to a less soluble form which will reduce salt build-up and leaching loss.

- Lowering pathogens such as E. coli when manure is *hot composted.

- Lower weed seed count when you *hot compost.

- Adding more organic matter to the soil when you compost manure first.

 

 * Hot composting:

When your compost is maintained at or above 131°F for 15 days or more (and the compost is turned so that all material is exposed to this temperature for a minimum of 3 days).

 

 

Also on a side note, since your composting with manure I see no need in using a "compost builder". The manure has all the micro-organisms and nutrients you need to get your compost started.


Edited by Circle-M-Farm - 4/15/16 at 12:54pm
post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Circle-M-Farm View Post
 

Composting the manure before applying it to the garden will do a number of things.

 

When you compost you;

 

- Bring the Nitrogen (N) level of the manure down to a level that wont burn (kill) the plants.

- Changing the N from a soluble form to a less soluble form which will reduce salt build-up and leaching loss.

- Lowering pathogens such as E. coli when manure is *hot composted.

- Lower weed seed count when you *hot compost.

- Adding more organic matter to the soil when you compost manure first.

 

 * Hot composting:

When your compost is maintained at or above 131°F for 15 days or more (and the compost is turned so that all material is exposed to this temperature for a minimum of 3 days).

 

 

Also on a side note, since your composting with manure I see no need in using a "compost builder". The manure has all the micro-organisms and nutrients you need to get your compost started.

Agreed.  IMO, those products are merely a cash cow for the stores who sell them to unsuspecting customers.  No special products needed.  You will get good benefit from tossing a shovel full of soil, a root ball of weeds, a bucket full of chicken poo.  Add some urine or ammonia if you need more nitrogen.  

Jesus Christ is my pilot.

My husband of 41 years is my best friend and co-pilot.

Enjoying my gardens.  My flock are my garden helpers.

Breeding a winter hearty flock with small combs and colored eggs.

Favorite breeds:  Dominique and EE.  Hatching addict.

 

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1084432/egg-gender-selection-survey

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1013154/byc-member-interview-laz...

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Jesus Christ is my pilot.

My husband of 41 years is my best friend and co-pilot.

Enjoying my gardens.  My flock are my garden helpers.

Breeding a winter hearty flock with small combs and colored eggs.

Favorite breeds:  Dominique and EE.  Hatching addict.

 

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1084432/egg-gender-selection-survey

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1013154/byc-member-interview-laz...

Reply
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