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5 Coops-54 Chickens

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
So I now have 54 chickens and 5 coops...two 4x8's, two 4x4's and a converted shed that is 3 x 8...
my thoughts as I acquired 54 was to have different egg colors and perhaps hatch two specific breeds.
My question is how/can I separate the breeds I want and shuffle in different roosters into all the coops at any given time....?? Without causing too much stress...while probably not ideal, I ultimately would like all of them to get along...
I realize the pecking order will be disrupted each time I move a roo in with 6 hens specifically to harvest those eggs for incubating.
Is that unheard of?
Rotating multiple roosters with the hens (only one roo in the smaller coops and keeping the ratio 1 to 10 when I do this.

Or am I just thinking/worrying too much....? This will be the first year I have multiple Roos-5 roosters out of the 54 so worried about them fighting if I move them around...

Thanks for any advice or similar situation...
Edited by RobandSue2 - 4/23/16 at 7:45pm
post #2 of 7
I'm not sure if I totally understand what you are trying to do. You shouldn't just move hens around, there's a structure to a flock and rules that govern it, as well as relationships and pecking orders. Not every rooster will mate every hen he encounters. It's best to have birds that grew up together stay together.
Chickens, muscovy ducks, turkeys, donkeys , goats, dogs, fish, parakeets, a parrot, and a cat.

Chickens and dogs are healing to the soul.

I brake for squirrels.

Some of my birds.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/my-wisconsin-flock
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Chickens, muscovy ducks, turkeys, donkeys , goats, dogs, fish, parakeets, a parrot, and a cat.

Chickens and dogs are healing to the soul.

I brake for squirrels.

Some of my birds.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/my-wisconsin-flock
Reply
post #3 of 7

You should do some searching on breeding pens....then build some,

one for each breed suitably sized for the number of birds you have of that breed.

 

Your space is already tight for that many birds.

 

Keep in mind that a hen can stay fertile from one mating for 3-4 weeks,

so segregation of breeds for that length of time before collecting 'pure breed' eggs for hatching is recommended.

Great article on VENTILATION, one of THE MOST IMPORTANT aspects of coop design.

Fantastic treatise to help decide how much SPACE your chickens need.

 

Chicken math is not just 'addition'...but also should include Division, Multiplication and especially Subtraction!!!

 

Quoting centrarchid:

"Make every effort to understand your chicken's biology and the environment that supports it."

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Great article on VENTILATION, one of THE MOST IMPORTANT aspects of coop design.

Fantastic treatise to help decide how much SPACE your chickens need.

 

Chicken math is not just 'addition'...but also should include Division, Multiplication and especially Subtraction!!!

 

Quoting centrarchid:

"Make every effort to understand your chicken's biology and the environment that supports it."

Reply
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Perhaps my rambling was clear enough...sorry...hat I'd like to do is to integrate the entire flock and I was hoping to be able to (own occasion) to segregate my Marans and olive Eggers to be able to breed them.
.....or should I just resign myself to keeping the segregated now until I stop trying to breed them?
I do have over 2 acres for them to free range...my older girls typically do not go farther than 1 acre though....the 5 cooper provide plenty of room for them as they each have a couple levels and multiple roosting bars....

I have read a few other posts saying that the chickens I'll typically stay in the one they grew up in and some will choose a different one depending so just have to wait and see...

I did not take into account that each rooster may or may not get along/mate with the hens--surprising as thy are growing up together and getting along very well...
Thank-You for the feed back all is welcome...
post #5 of 7

I'd just take a "what will be will be" attitude, and do what you logically feel you want to do. Obviously, its good that you're gathering info, planning, and open minded. Likely, you'll make good decisions. Much can be learned from trial and error. You can always un-do, alter, or abandon new plans. Unless you have some "game" roosters, I wouldn't go over the top with worry. 

 

This is a bit of work, but have you considered putting all your roosters together for awhile, without any hens? That would establish a pecking order, and theoretically limit fighting some when they do get around the hens. The roosters I've had have always grown up together, run loose together, and don't fight, but I free range everyone, except at night.

post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thank-You.....
I never thought I could keep all the roosters together!! Lol...but have seen a few more threads that have said the same thing...
Last year was my first experience with 2 fighting and I did not like it...my little Japanese bantam bloodied up my Spangled Hamburg who was twice his size...

I have learned squabbles can happen and that is part of the pecking order tradition...
As long as I keep them all safe and get some eggs and the kids have enjoyment it's all good...Thanks
post #7 of 7

Ah, those bantams can be awful mean. I have an old neighbor that still raises game roosters. Most are bantam varieties. They are a special case, and have to be always separated from other roosters...or else. Though I'd never seen any of the old fighting days, this guy can tell you all you'd ever want to know. 

 

I generally don't keep roosters around much, just because I don't want the noise, and hassle. but the people I know that do seem to regularly keep their roosters together alot. They then choose which rooster they want to go with which hens, and limit the time they are together to save wear and tear on hens. They say they fight less that way.


Edited by cscigu - 4/24/16 at 1:49pm
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