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3D Modeling for Coops (& appliances) - Page 13

post #121 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottandSam View Post
 

I just wish I could figure out sketchup. I took off the roof and opps there are no rafters. I had to load on my son's machine my laptop graphix were not up to par. I'm currently looking for graph paper.

 

Scott

 

After a bit SketchUp becomes more intuitive, I think. You can select things, hide them, move them around, and then just press ctrl+z until everything is back the way it was.

 

I didn't include any rafters. The roof is only 48 wide, it shouldn't need extra support. Guess though that depends on what you use for roofing material, whether it'll span that distance without sagging.

 

The idea was to keep costs down and construction as simple as possible, so that anyone could do it with a minimum of tools and experience.

post #122 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by WesleyBeal View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottandSam View Post
 

I just wish I could figure out sketchup. I took off the roof and opps there are no rafters. I had to load on my son's machine my laptop graphix were not up to par. I'm currently looking for graph paper.

 

Scott

 

After a bit SketchUp becomes more intuitive, I think. You can select things, hide them, move them around, and then just press ctrl+z until everything is back the way it was.

 

I didn't include any rafters. The roof is only 48 wide, it shouldn't need extra support. Guess though that depends on what you use for roofing material, whether it'll span that distance without sagging.

 

The idea was to keep costs down and construction as simple as possible, so that anyone could do it with a minimum of tools and experience.


being a cold weather coop I would not attempt to build one without the ply even 3/4" will sagg under snow load.. I played around 3 hours or 4 last night trying to resize 3 boards. it one heck of a learning curve.

 

 

Scott

post #123 of 127
Sketchup progress pic. I'm working on an 8x16 design. Took me a couple hours to get this far. I'll finish it in the next couple days and put it on the 3D warehouse.
Should be very similar to JackE's coop build.

post #124 of 127

Looking  good so. far

 

 

Scott

post #125 of 127

Jack E might be able to report what he did, but if you read Woods book, there is a section where Woods talked about the correct proportion of front to back.  So to stay true to that proportion, rather than an 8' front and 8' back, that should be 6' front and 10' back for a 16' building.

 

Height at the peak of the monitor would normally then be 10' too. Basically, build it as intended for the 10' x 16' building, but only 8' wide.

 

The correct proportion for an 8' wide building is 12 deep. Technically, 7 1/2" wide x 12' deep. (No plans in Wood's book for an 8' x 12'.......I made my own plans).

 

Either way, what you will find with this building when the side windows are shut, is dead calm air back at the roost level. When I went out this evening to close the pop door and do a head count, wind was blowing straight in to the open end.......about 20 mph. So strong it was a real struggle to close the door from the inside. You could hear the wind outside howling. Yet inside, with the door closed, all was calm. So wide open ventilation (basically a covered run enclosed on three sides) and draft free at the roost level.

post #126 of 127

So to help you plan and decide.......here would be some capacities for these various coop sizes........

 

10' x 16' - 40 birds (W)

 

8' x 16' - 32 birds

 

8' x 12' - 24 birds

 

6' x 10' - 15 birds (W)*

 

4' x 6 1/2' - 6 birds

 

The (W) designations are the only one's shown in the book. The rest have been made by some of us using Woods book as our guide. What has driven some of these changes is the desire to stick with sizes that work with 4' x 8' sheets of building materials like plywood and siding.

post #127 of 127
Thanks Howard. I tried a few different configurations. I guess I saved that pic when it was 8 and 8. I went back and found where Jack talks about his measurements.

Wood's KD plans shows an 8' high center beam and the 10x16 has a 10' high center beam. He also seems to use just. 2x4 for a header. I plan to use a built up 2x6 for the headers in the center.

In the current drawing, I started with the back wall at 5' and went forward with a 5/12 pitch. At 10' from the back it ends up being about 9'6" high beam. Set the front roof at 6' and go forward with 3/12 pitch, it ends up at 4'6". Just about what Jack mentioned in his post.

It really is a cool design when you get your head into it. I wonder if Woods would have done anything different having modern plywood in 4x8 dimensions available?

I'm still messing with the plan. Rough in windows, maybe make the door taller, other little adjustments.


Edited by cholland - 3/25/17 at 7:42pm
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