Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine
Originally Posted by My peeps
Blarneyeggs was kind enough to send me 13 eggs for my friends classroom to hatch. They get white eggs from 4H but none of the students believed her when she told them eggs come in different sizes and colors. So far 4 of blarneys eggs hatched. 2 were lost due to cracking. The students are in awe! Thank you again! It has been such a wonderful experience for them. Here are a few pic that she sent me. Any guess on the breed?
Originally Posted by SilkieSensation
so they are anit kid ha ha ha, thats what we did with our ancona, we had the kids go with us to herd them in, but again not very friendly, they would come about two feet to me if I had peas or something thats it lol
can they be overfed or not?
My ducks will leave food in the bowl & come back for it later. I've never had a problem with them eating more than they can handle. My annies will walk out of the pen to go graze & leave half a bowl of feed to come back & nibble on throughout the day.
Originally Posted by wingstone
I know nothing about the Swedish flower hens but what I do have and especially anything for meat,,, experience has me staying away from high protein feed...
My quail do not seem to lay as well on high protein and tend to be tougher meat in the end....I also had a couple of broad breasted turkey that did not do well on high protein.
I will crawl under my rock now and take my coffee with me since the normal folks tend o go for high protein, not sure why.
I give lower protien to meaties too. I grow mine out longer but they rarelly have leg problems this way. I have 1 out of this batch of 19 with a bad leg & it's not even enough to interfere with him getting around. He was 10 weeks old Sunday & is closer to the size of the 8 week olds, so his genetics were bad anyway. He will go with the batch being processed this weekend. We've just beenn grabbing the biggest 2-4 at a time & processing. them when they reach the size I want. 6 down, 13 to go.
As for feed:
I use a 22% crumble that my mill makes called Turkey Fast Grow for all of my babies. I have chicks, ducks, turkeys, quail & guineas all eating it until about 8-10 weeks or whenever they get tossed in the adult pens. Meaties get it til about 5 weeks then get switched to my cheaper adult food, which is still pretty high protein. Baby food is non medicated. I also ferment from day 1 for everyone.
Older birds get a mix I have my mill make that's about 18% protein. It's 60% layer mash, 5% barley, 5% wheat, 5% dry molasses, 5% whole corn & 20% distiller's mash. There's some soy, but not a lot since the mash is also almost half distiller's grain. This mix gets fermented when weather permits to cut waste & boost productivity. I have also been known to add cayanne pepper when laying slacks in winter to get them back in gear.
All adults have calcium either from oyster shell or egg shells sprinkled over the feed bowls daily. The males pick around it & the hens grab it as needed. I know they are getting enough when there are just a few pieces of shell in the bottom of the bowls each evening.
Originally Posted by Katt66
Originally Posted by wingstone
Just a little word of caution for those of you chasing after roosters, and this is only my opinion which is coming from experience..
When you pin a rooster down or otherwise chase him, all you are doing is reversing the challenge and as he grows he will keep coming back at you for the next challenge, he will always be trying to up his rank in the flock...and yes you and the kids do play a role in that flock standing....
I do not need to say where that rooster needs to go, I think it will come to that in the end
I'm afraid you're absolutely right. And I know it, just can't get DH off the couch to execute his Princess' rooster. D:
Gonna have to go do it myself. That way I'M the only one responsible. I think that's the underlying motive here. HE doesn't want any parts of this one.
So, my next question is this, IS it possible to have a "friendly" or at least tolerant rooster with a flock of hens? Or do they all get crazy when they've got a flock?
Reason I'm asking is my cousin had a huge Barred Rock roo who was sweet as could be. He was housed completely by himself and penned all the time.
They also had a pair of EE roos, the uncles to my current roo who strolled around the yard and bothered no one ever. In fact, the only time they showed any interest in people was when you'd go into the shop. They'd follow you in to beg for a handful of cracked corn. These guys were all very mature older roosters. At least 4 or 5 yrs old.
All the EE roos we hatched though got downright vicious. Is it all just up to the individual roo? Or are some breeds known to be crazy and some more mellow and easy going?
Because right now I've got what looks like a Blue Silkie cockerel and a Dark Brahma cockerel coming up. If I'm going to have to end up sending these two to freezer camp I'm gonna cry I think!
Thete are currently 6 roos, 1 tom & 1 drake in my layer pen, plus quite a few young roos that went out in the juvie group this week. There are occasional squables (usually cut very short by the tom) but none has ever even tried to come after any of us. I had 2 roos who were mean last summer. The banty was rehomed & the orp went to freezer camp. We have a rule around here: "You bite us, we bite you." All mean roos go to freezer camp.
Originally Posted by dheltzel
Originally Posted by wingstone
I hope no one minds but I am writing everyone's feed response down in a notebook for comparison, one pattern I see is the layer feed, I have never fed layer so I am curious for the reasoning of it..
Ray we have more of those panels that we plant grass under if you need some....speaking of grass and bugs for that matter, how would you determine what percentage of protein they fall at, for they must be different according to type and I would assume even location plays a role...
Pellets seem to ferment better than mash, I find area's of lumpy spots with mash, might be the way it sticks to the whole grains.....but when feeding dry I have less waste with mash
I find a lot more is wasted with dry mash. They seem determined to pick through it to find pieces to eat, tossing out the finer stuff on the floor, where it is ignored. Once it's wet, it's a different story - they eat it all.
Maybe it's that the mash is a cheaper mix and they don't like the taste as much. We get 100 lb bags of mash for just $18.50, but that source doesn't have equipment to make crumbles or pellets. If I had time to ferment feed, I'd use the mash and a paint mixer on a big drill, that would fix those lumpy spots, and give me an excuse to use a power tool!
I found putting the water in the bucket & then stirring feed into it works best to avoid lumps & dry spots. I use the mash mix because it saves me a ton of money & they can't pick through it to just eat what they want. The added 15% of extra grains in my mix gives them a few hidden treasures here & there, but not so much that they deliberately go digging for it & fling food trying to find the parts they want.