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 can some one please help me to know

if they are rooster or pullets 8 weeks or 12 week olds

thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailblazn 

Ok, all of you with color knowledge, I need some help. I have gotten into orps and want to breed some of them.
I know lav/ lav obviously you get lav. I've also read moxing black with lav gives you better color lav but then you have lav split. Is it good to have lav splits or do people want pure lav?
Also, what about breeding black to blue? What do you get in colored babies? Is it better to breed blue to blue?
Thanks for any help with breeding color.

I believe you need to go to the United Orpington Club Forum to ask your questions if you are a member because the questions you are asking are lot more complicated than it appears the answers you were given.

Quote:

Originally Posted by trailblazn 

Ok, all of you with color knowledge, I need some help. I have gotten into orps and want to breed some of them.
I know lav/ lav obviously you get lav. I've also read moxing black with lav gives you better color lav but then you have lav split. Is it good to have lav splits or do people want pure lav?
Also, what about breeding black to blue? What do you get in colored babies? Is it better to breed blue to blue?
Thanks for any help with breeding color.

Hope this may be of some help:

• Lavender + Lavender  =  100% Lavender
• Black + Lavender  =  100% Black split to Lavender (each chick will look black but carry one Lav gene) 
• Black + Black  =  100% Black
• Black + Splash  =  100% Blue
• Black + Blue  =  50% Black / 50% Blue
• Blue + Blue  =  50% Blue / 25% Black / 25% Splash
• Blue + Splash  =  50% Blue / 50% Splash
• Splash + Splash  =  100% Splash

Chicks need two copies of the Lav gene (one from each parent) to display the Lavender color. Breeding the Black split to Lav chicks back to a pure Lavender will produce approximately 50% Lav and 50% Black.  Breeding a Black split to Lav to another Black split to Lav will produce approximately 25% Lav and 75% Blacks. These ratios apply to large hatches, the numbers may be off quite a bit in smaller hatches. 

I am also pretty new to this, and hopefully someone with more experience will step in and correct me if I am wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by turkeybreeder 

 can some one please help me to know

if they are rooster or pullets 8 weeks or 12 week olds

thanks

Usually by the age of 5 wks.  The males will have redder and slightly bigger combs than the females.  If you have a lot of males in the clutch you will have some that are Beta Roos.  These will get male characteristics later than the Alfa Roos at about 12 to 14 wks. old.  Hope that helps

Quote:

Originally Posted by aveca 

do you do your own testing ? i kind of figured it had to do with the amish, but we have amish here too they have schools all over our counties and they abide by the rules no problem..they cant afford salmonella any more than i can...when my cousin lost her barn in the recent flooding in nichols ny...guess who showed up to rebuild their organic farm?.....the amish and menonites...they are in on her organic bizness..if they only raise animals for their own use then they dont need inspection up here..its just when they sell produce to or are exposing at shows that they have to partake...during the salmonella egg outbreak..everybody was turning  to NY for clean source  of eggs  ...there is a guy from down in pa that comes up to these shows..he must have upward of 200 chickens at these shows..he stuck a cubulana  whatever they are, chicken from cuba with a huge comb right behind my birds..that bird sure didnt have a bath..he was filthy, even his legs and comb were very dirty. guess when your the guy that shows up with that many, cant wash all of them. they have plexiglass partitions you can use like a sneeze guard..but we had taken off to go tour wine country..so didnt know he had been placed there...spent most of tht winter nursing cockeral back to health in quarentine..rendered him infertile to boot..so i use the sheilds now..that was several years ago..we have a local stock yards down over the border in pa that had to shut down for a spell, but i cant remember what the outbreak was..they were passing out flyers about it.i wish i could remember what it was.lots of good caring poultry keepers in pa..i know lots of them..but its that guy that travels all over  bringing birds home from every state and hes the guy that ruins it for everybody.you really have to watch it..lots of stuff out there can make birds real sick..im still a little bitter that a cubulana rendered one of the best australorps iver ever owned infertile and sick for many months.

           This isn't making a great deal of sense. A dirty bird from muddy yards doesn't mean the bird is sick. The pristinely clean specimen in great looking show shape could just as well have been to blame. Birds at shows are usually part of a long line of birds back to back and sometimes two layers up and down. Airborn is airborn and it isn't always the next bird in line. Also, if it was months nursing this bird that got sick there was something wrong with the bird and maybe his immune system or the problem wasn't what we would expect as far as the usual ones shared from a show situation. Antibiotics are useful for their purpose but if you were using anything, especially heavy duty and/or long term, they can play havoc with a bird's system and that very much includes fertility. One reason a lot of the pigeon folks are learning how to manage their birds health with as little use of antibiotics as possible, even during illness. This is a little off topic from the testing but since it presented a picture of exhibiting that could give a newcomer a very wrong idea I wanted to say something. Which is not that you didn't end up with a problem but we and possibly you yourself don't have a complete picture as presented. It does totally suck to exhibit your work and find you've brought home an illness. I hope you've had no further problems. Oh, those are not sneeze guards LOL; they prevent birds from fighting. At least in my experience.

I have 14 new bbs chciks,now if spring would ever come,this was yesterday and today and the weather person says this will be the theme for the rest of the week.YUCK!!!! I want to see green!

well it goes like this, the person who showed the dirty bird is a freind of mine, they drove somewhere out west that I wont name to get the birds..brought them home entered the show  as is and threw them in the show..I went right over to him and said no quarentine ? Iknoow you have over 200 birds here but could you pick the crust off his comb?, nope  just chuck him in a show.. he knew I was a little miffed at him but we are still good freinds ,..just had supper out with them..,..so the line up was blk orp in back of him placed cubulana (sp) cage to right of cubulana=empty..cages right and left of blk orp cockeral = empty..cage to cage to left of cub...empty..my hen  and other rooster was further down the line surrounded by birds. never got sick...that cubulana (sp) did not look well..but he was standing up..90% of people showing are great people, this freind of mine  does these things, lot of people call him some pretty bad names..one of the funniest things Ive ever heard somone call him is chicken carpetbagger..I asked him , next time you grab a bird from god knows where, could you pick the poop crust off him for the show..might make him feel lot better ..
 

by the way. about a week after they got those birds home, same time we were showing, several cages of them over at thier farm  got some disease kind of cheesey like chunks inside of thier mouths and thoat, I cant remember what they call that disease..mine just wound up on brest shots of antibiotics.upper resp..its .been several years ago..I remember some of the cages at thier house had antibiotic water.., my bird wound up with  big crusts of yellow junk in ears that I had to pick out and put antibiotic ointment back in the ears while he was in quarentine at my moms barn..i was not happy...those "sneeze guards" help prevent them injuring each other through cages, they also provide a level of protection of direct contact with contagious disease..we just call them sneeze guards..since the guards they use at these 2 APA shows are plexiglass (see through) kind of pointless to prevent fights as they can see right through them..they use a chunk of carboard for fighting roosters..LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveK 

 
 

           This isn't making a great deal of sense. A dirty bird from muddy yards doesn't mean the bird is sick. The pristinely clean specimen in great looking show shape could just as well have been to blame. Birds at shows are usually part of a long line of birds back to back and sometimes two layers up and down. Airborn is airborn and it isn't always the next bird in line. Also, if it was months nursing this bird that got sick there was something wrong with the bird and maybe his immune system or the problem wasn't what we would expect as far as the usual ones shared from a show situation. Antibiotics are useful for their purpose but if you were using anything, especially heavy duty and/or long term, they can play havoc with a bird's system and that very much includes fertility. One reason a lot of the pigeon folks are learning how to manage their birds health with as little use of antibiotics as possible, even during illness. This is a little off topic from the testing but since it presented a picture of exhibiting that could give a newcomer a very wrong idea I wanted to say something. Which is not that you didn't end up with a problem but we and possibly you yourself don't have a complete picture as presented. It does totally suck to exhibit your work and find you've brought home an illness. I hope you've had no further problems. Oh, those are not sneeze guards LOL; they prevent birds from fighting. At least in my experience.

 

I have 2 Buff Orpington roosters that are about a year old.  I want to keep only 1 of them for breeding.  What are the most important characteristics to select for in breeding?  These were just hatchery chicks, so I don't have great starting material, but want to improve the next generation if I can.  They have been great layers, and have wonderful personalities, but are definitely not up to breed standards.