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Thermostat/Humidistat Combo

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hello people,
Does anyone have a ReptiTemp Hydrotherm in their incubator? 

A link is HERE: 

Let me know, because it's digital, it has a thermostat, and a humidistat also, and would be well worth the price!

post #2 of 8

Someone mentened it the other day but I as of yet have not seen any revews

post #3 of 8

I got one... you can see my bator on my BYC page. The thermostat has a 2 degree differential and seems to be fairly accurate yet I've been having some trouble keeping my incubator at a steady enough (to make me happy) temp. Of course the bator is full of eggs so I'm not going to modify it right now but I will need to play around with moving the sensor to see if I can get less than a 2 degree fluctuation. If not, I may wire in another stat and use the one on this controller as a high limit cutoff. The humidistat is very accurate and has worked flawlessly with a fogger attached to it. I just hatched my first batch out of it a few days ago

Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
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Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
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post #4 of 8

I called the company concerning this temp/humidity controller. According to the technician that I talked to, the hysteresis,( temp diff between on and off), is 1 degree. Providing that you have a adequate sized heating element for the size incubator you are using, this will probably work OK in a incubator. One other problem is in the digital display, temps are displayed in whole numbers only, meaning it will only display 99 degrees or 100 degrees, but not 99.5 degrees. Actually for any temperature setting above 99, the display will show only a Minus sign. You can fool with the buttons to get a display of the actual temp display of over 99*, but this number will only be temporarly displayed for a few moments, at which time the display will return to the minus sign. For me this would be a minor annoyance, but if I am going to pay for a display on a temp/humidity controller, I think it should display the correct temp reading without me haveing to push extra buttons to see what the temp is. If you want a display of actuall temps, you can always buy a digital thermometer to hang in the incubator window.

I didnt ask about the humidity part of the controller, but since I wouldnt want a humidity of/or over 99%, a display of 99% or less should be fine for that.

Petmed has this controller for $69 with free shipping, I think the reptile fogger was $39. These where the cheapest prices I found on the net.

Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
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Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
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post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by geosheets 

I got one... you can see my bator on my BYC page. The thermostat has a 2 degree differential and seems to be fairly accurate yet I've been having some trouble keeping my incubator at a steady enough (to make me happy) temp. Of course the bator is full of eggs so I'm not going to modify it right now but I will need to play around with moving the sensor to see if I can get less than a 2 degree fluctuation. If not, I may wire in another stat and use the one on this controller as a high limit cutoff. The humidistat is very accurate and has worked flawlessly with a fogger attached to it. I just hatched my first batch out of it a few days ago


I checked out your BYC page. Good looking incubator. I also looked at your choice of heating elements. I think this might explain your 2 degree on/off of your thermostat. The PTC heating elements get very hot and take a long time to cool down. I suspect instead of a 2 degree temp variance with your thermostat, you are actually getting a overshoot of your desired temp setting. Basicly, even when your thermostat turns off the power to your heating element, it is still provideing a good deal of heat. To compound this problem, you have your heating element wraped in what looks like copper wire to hold it in place. I know you said you planned on changeing this and hopefully you did, but incase you havent. The heating elements work by provideing resistance to the electrical current flowing thru the heating element. The resistance causes the element to give off heat. When ever you increase the size of the element, you also increase the resistance. As resistance is increased, temperature will decrease. If you decrease the size of the heating element, the resistance is decreased causeing the element to get hotter. In the case of your setup that you have posted on your BYC page, you show the heating element wrapped in wire. The wire does not have the same resistance to electrical flow as the heating element. Contact between the wire and the heating element, at more than one contact point, will decrease the resistance and will cause the element to put out more heat than it was designed for. It could cause the element to overheat and burnout or maybe even cause a fire hazard. It will also cause the element to consume more electrical power.

While looking at the PTC heating element I also noticed that it had three wires running to it and that it is rated for 500W. By removeing the middel wire from the heating element, and just connecting to the two outside connecting posts on this element, you can reduce your wattage to about 250 watts. You would run the two wires from your thermostat directly to the two outside connection post on the heating element. This should provide more than enought heat to keep your incubator at the correct temps, reduce your power consumption, and reduce the differencial between your 2* on and off fluctuation of your thermostat.

If you have a electrical test meter, you can check the OHM reading between the two outside post of you heating element to get a measure of resistance. This ohm reading should be in the neighborhood of about 60ohm's. A lower reading than 60 will mean more heat, and a reading of more than 60 will mean less heat. I currently am running 80 ohm's using nichrome wire and find this might be a little cool in my large cabinet incubator. I have also used 60ohms ( pretty much standard in the Dickey and Sportman incubators) and find that to be a tad to hot, so i am considering trying 70ohms in my next incubator.

Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
Reply
Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
Reply
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by muddstopper 

I called the company concerning this temp/humidity controller. According to the technician that I talked to, the hysteresis,( temp diff between on and off), is 1 degree. Providing that you have a adequate sized heating element for the size incubator you are using, this will probably work OK in a incubator. One other problem is in the digital display, temps are displayed in whole numbers only, meaning it will only display 99 degrees or 100 degrees, but not 99.5 degrees. Actually for any temperature setting above 99, the display will show only a Minus sign. You can fool with the buttons to get a display of the actual temp display of over 99*, but this number will only be temporarly displayed for a few moments, at which time the display will return to the minus sign. For me this would be a minor annoyance, but if I am going to pay for a display on a temp/humidity controller, I think it should display the correct temp reading without me haveing to push extra buttons to see what the temp is. If you want a display of actuall temps, you can always buy a digital thermometer to hang in the incubator window.

I didnt ask about the humidity part of the controller, but since I wouldnt want a humidity of/or over 99%, a display of 99% or less should be fine for that.

Petmed has this controller for $69 with free shipping, I think the reptile fogger was $39. These where the cheapest prices I found on the net.


Just an FYI, the tech has given you incorrect information... The controllers temperature differential is 2 degrees whether programmed in Fahrenheit or Celsius. The display shows the actual temp(Fahrenheit) at all times in three digit whole numbers... it only shows the programmed temp as a minus sign and only when set above 99 degrees. The display does show actual temperature in 1/10 increments if you are viewing it in Celsius. The humidistat has a 10% differential. I never trust any one thermometer/hygrometer anyways so there is always going to be at least one more in my incubator.

Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
Reply
Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
Reply
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by muddstopper 
Quote:
Originally Posted by geosheets 

I got one... you can see my bator on my BYC page. The thermostat has a 2 degree differential and seems to be fairly accurate yet I've been having some trouble keeping my incubator at a steady enough (to make me happy) temp. Of course the bator is full of eggs so I'm not going to modify it right now but I will need to play around with moving the sensor to see if I can get less than a 2 degree fluctuation. If not, I may wire in another stat and use the one on this controller as a high limit cutoff. The humidistat is very accurate and has worked flawlessly with a fogger attached to it. I just hatched my first batch out of it a few days ago


I checked out your BYC page. Good looking incubator. I also looked at your choice of heating elements. I think this might explain your 2 degree on/off of your thermostat. The PTC heating elements get very hot and take a long time to cool down. I suspect instead of a 2 degree temp variance with your thermostat, you are actually getting a overshoot of your desired temp setting. Basicly, even when your thermostat turns off the power to your heating element, it is still provideing a good deal of heat. To compound this problem, you have your heating element wraped in what looks like copper wire to hold it in place. I know you said you planned on changeing this and hopefully you did, but incase you havent. The heating elements work by provideing resistance to the electrical current flowing thru the heating element. The resistance causes the element to give off heat. When ever you increase the size of the element, you also increase the resistance. As resistance is increased, temperature will decrease. If you decrease the size of the heating element, the resistance is decreased causeing the element to get hotter. In the case of your setup that you have posted on your BYC page, you show the heating element wrapped in wire. The wire does not have the same resistance to electrical flow as the heating element. Contact between the wire and the heating element, at more than one contact point, will decrease the resistance and will cause the element to put out more heat than it was designed for. It could cause the element to overheat and burnout or maybe even cause a fire hazard. It will also cause the element to consume more electrical power. I don't know what you are looking at but the wire is simply stainless bailing wire holding the fans to the element... the bailing wire has nothing to do with the electrical flow or the resistance of my heating element as it doesn't touch anything that has current flowing through it. The fan runs all the time and I don't have any problems 'overshooting' my desired temp. The temperature controller turns on & off at a 2 degrees differential... I promise it does. Hopefully by relocating the temp sensor directly under the heat it will cycle faster and maintain a more stable cabinet temperature

While looking at the PTC heating element I also noticed that it had three wires running to it and that it is rated for 500W. By removeing the middel wire from the heating element, and just connecting to the two outside connecting posts on this element, you can reduce your wattage to about 250 watts. You would run the two wires from your thermostat directly to the two outside connection post on the heating element. This should provide more than enought heat to keep your incubator at the correct temps, reduce your power consumption, and reduce the differencial between your 2* on and off fluctuation of your thermostat. Did you even read the page? I am only running half of it at 250 watts

If you have a electrical test meter, you can check the OHM reading between the two outside post of you heating element to get a measure of resistance. This ohm reading should be in the neighborhood of about 60ohm's. A lower reading than 60 will mean more heat, and a reading of more than 60 will mean less heat. I currently am running 80 ohm's using nichrome wire and find this might be a little cool in my large cabinet incubator. I have also used 60ohms ( pretty much standard in the Dickey and Sportman incubators) and find that to be a tad to hot, so i am considering trying 70ohms in my next incubator. hmmm, if I was to just touch my tongue to it wouldn't that be more accurate? Sorry to be a smart aleck, I've been doing electrical work for 25 years and have a pretty good understanding of how things work and how to use a multimeter... I do appreciate your input.

Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
Reply
Check out www.LucasvilleTradeDays.com for one of the largest flea markets and animal swaps in the Midwest. Located in Lucasville, Ohio. 2014 Swap dates are April 19-20, June 14-15, Sept. 27-28. 
Reply
post #8 of 8

Yes, I read your page and I sent you a PM to explain.

Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
Reply
Welsummers, Cuckoo marans, Buckeyes,  Bluelaced Red Wyanndotts, and Black Australopes

NPIP# 55-960
Reply
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