Australorps breed Thread - Page 86

Not sure if this is the proper place for this, but I have searched the threads and having trouble.  I am new to Chickens, and chose Australorps to get started with I have 17 in my brooder, and plan to cull quite a few.  I am wondering if there is a written SOP that I can follow when I make those decisions.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Yes there is:http://www.amerpoultryassn.com/APA_ShoppingMall3.htm

Auatralorps are in the English class. I read that some judges are mistakenly going for BAs that weigh too much and look too much like Orpingtons.

Do you plan on showing yours?

Ron

>>>>>>>>>>>>Quote:

Originally Posted by Madhen80 

Not sure if this is the proper place for this, but I have searched the threads and having trouble.  I am new to Chickens, and chose Australorps to get started with I have 17 in my brooder, and plan to cull quite a few.  I am wondering if there is a written SOP that I can follow when I make those decisions.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Hi Ron,

Again... interesting info.  Thank you.

I've been looking for parasites and she/they seem clean, but I'll keep watching.

You said "... a new egg laying cycle..."  I'm not familiar with that situation except after a molt - which she hasn't done yet.  Can you expand on that a little more for me?  Is it due to spring, her age, or something else?  I did notice a small area of bare skin down low on her breast bone.  I thought that was related to broodiness, but since she's not laying there are no eggs to set on, and she's not spending time in the nest box, so I'm confused.  Obviously I have a lot to learn!   

BTW, how is it going with your new basque birds?  Didn't you have a hatch going early this year???

Carolyn

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronott1 

Hi CarolynF

 

My guess is that a new egg laying cycle has started. Chickens need vit D and calcium to make hard egg shells. To add to what Aveca said, many breeds will lay soft shelled eggs sometimes. The shells should get better soon and your hen should start laying regularly too. Look for darker eggs than normal too.

 

If all does not get back to normal soon, check for parasites. You can also give her more protein and some chicken vitamins. I bought some from TSC. I put a scoop in the water once a week. I also am giving them the new pro biotic from save a chick once a week.

 

Bye,

 

Ron

 

 

Hi Oahu,

I notice you are thinking about starting with 2 or 3 and building up to 6.  I had a similar idea last year.  I started with 2 then added one more (my limit is 3).  What I learned is that it can be challenging to add to the flock.  As the new bird(s) are added they will spend a couple of weeks establishing the new pecking order, which can be hard to watch.  They are not polite like we expect people to be, they can get pretty mean.  Our newcomer was a young pullet about 4 months old.  We spent a fair amount of time monitoring their behavior and used a spray bottle or water pistol to discourage extremely bad behavior.  

The other issue is the probability of introducing disease or parasites (mites, fleas, etc.) into your existing flock.  Many people will keep the newcomers isolated for 3 - 6 weeks to make sure all is well, which means you need two coop/run setups.  And a lone chicken is a very unhappy chicken! 

If I were going to do it over I'd wait until one of ours went broody and then sneek in either a couple of day old chicks or some hatching eggs and have her raise the chicks.  She would protect and teach the little ones much better than I could.  And it would be fun, too.

Good Luck,

Carolyn

p.s.  My black australorp is our favorite hen, she's a doll! 

Quote:

Originally Posted by oahu 

Hi,

 

Good to know.  Thank you for your response.  Would there be a different breed with white eggs that is a good layer, quiet, docile and non flighty?

 

Boise is allowing six chickens but we would like to start with 2 or 3.

 

 

Hi Carolyn,

At around a year old, they will start a new laying cycle. Molts don't have to be a sudden loss of all the feathers the first time. Give them extra protein and they will start laying again sooner. The old way of thinking was to cut protein and give them grains at molt since they weren't laying eggs. Modern thinking is to give them more protein at molt to help them recover. The books say they will molt more often and harder as they age. Look for slightly larger and darker eggs. She may not lay for a couple of weeks and may still lose some feathers. If you have clipped a wing, make sure to clip them again when the new ones come in.

The Basque chicks are great! I have 11 of them I will keep the best four pullets and one of the Cockerels. I have a breeding pen and run set up for them  and can't wait to hatch my own from them. Of course they are only three weeks old, so I will have to wait...

Ron

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarolynF 

Hi Ron,

 

Again... interesting info.  Thank you.

 

I've been looking for parasites and she/they seem clean, but I'll keep watching.

 

You said "... a new egg laying cycle..."  I'm not familiar with that situation except after a molt - which she hasn't done yet.  Can you expand on that a little more for me?  Is it due to spring, her age, or something else?  I did notice a small area of bare skin down low on her breast bone.  I thought that was related to broodiness, but since she's not laying there are no eggs to set on, and she's not spending time in the nest box, so I'm confused.  Obviously I have a lot to learn!   

 

BTW, how is it going with your new basque birds?  Didn't you have a hatch going early this year???

 

Carolyn

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronott1 

Hi CarolynF

 

My guess is that a new egg laying cycle has started. Chickens need vit D and calcium to make hard egg shells. To add to what Aveca said, many breeds will lay soft shelled eggs sometimes. The shells should get better soon and your hen should start laying regularly too. Look for darker eggs than normal too.

 

If all does not get back to normal soon, check for parasites. You can also give her more protein and some chicken vitamins. I bought some from TSC. I put a scoop in the water once a week. I also am giving them the new pro biotic from save a chick once a week.

 

Bye,

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Check with your local 4-H. They often have showing classes that adults can attend.

And Yes, breed towards the SOP!

Ron

>>>>>>>>>

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madhen80 

Ron, I am unsure if I will be showing just yet, but I show dogs in confirmation, so I don't think is feel right about not trying to adhere to a standard if I end up having offspring. It would be a natural thing for me to get into, showing, but I have no idea how to get started. Would love to learn though! Thanks for the info.

I can't believe I wrote "confirmation"   That's a huge pet peeve of mine!  I guess that's what I get for replying on my phone.  ConFORMation, there.  That makes me feel better!

Ron, thanks again for the extra information! 

Madhen...  we went to chicken show last fall and had a great time.  It was a multi-day event and we stayed for the whole thing in our trailer, on-site.  If you can find one in your area I'd highly recommend it.  The judges were very willing to discuss their ideas with anyone willing to learn.  And participants enjoyed talking about their birds.  I saw a listing for the show here on BYC, I think there's a topic for local shows and events.  And it was being discussed on the thread for my state in the "where are you" area.

Good Luck
 

ron is right judges shouldn't reward Aussies leaning too much toward orpingtons..the australorp is smaller more elegant bird and in the Australian standard, he is required to have a tighter feather, he must curve from beak to tail all the way through body, or PS can present a little flatter outline.I keep both..you can breed into blk or PS but you have to be very careful and back out working toward the standard. These are black orpingtons, way too big and bulkey to even be considered as australorp