We have started to hatch! Things are going good, but the eggs are coming slow because it has been cold. We DO NOT heat our coop and the birds have been fine for many years. We have 4 different breeding pens going and the chicks are all toe punched when hatched so as long as you mix up the toe punches when setting up breeding pens you will not be breeding brother to sister. We are small, but try to fill all orders as soon as we can. www.lundpoultry.com
Topics Discussed
- itemNankin Bantams
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Nankin Discussion Thread - Page 21
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We have started to hatch! Things are going good, but the eggs are coming slow because it has been cold. We DO NOT heat our coop and the birds have been fine for many years. We have 4 different breeding pens going and the chicks are all toe punched when hatched so as long as you mix up the toe punches when setting up breeding pens you will not be breeding brother to sister. We are small, but try to fill all orders as soon as we can. www.lundpoultry.com
Glad to see you don't add heat: so unnatural for farm animals. If we don't watch it closely our beloved rugged farm birds are going to go the way of the Show Dogs: pretty to look at and good for nothing!
Breeding Orientals,Games and Ducks;
With a large selection of Asil
And the largest flock of Cubalayas east of the Mississippi
Breeding Orientals,Games and Ducks;
With a large selection of Asil
And the largest flock of Cubalayas east of the Mississippi
I agree with this so much! My coop is not heated either. I have heard it causes more problems than it helps. My 4 horses live in a 3 acre fenced in area with a run in shed (we have to hay year round). I do not blanket them. They grow gorgeous, nice thick winter coats! In fact, blanketing them can be very bad, because it flattens the hair and takes away it's ability to fluff up, which traps air and keeps them warm. They have done studies on how it is that horses feet and ears don't freeze. Their circulation to their feet and ears actually changes as needed. If the feet are too cold, the vessels open up more and allow more blood into the feet. However, nature also helps with that because horses have no muscles in their feet, only tendons and ligaments, which don't need much warmth to stay useful. A horses digestive system is "modified" so that eating roughage generates a lot of heat. So as long as a horse has enough hay to eat, and has been allowed to acclimate to the temps as it gets colder, they will stay warm. My chickens have shavings in their coop and when they perch on their roosts, they squat down and cover their feet. So far all my birds are rose combs. I understand that single combs can be an issue, but my sister has single comb birds and has never had any freeze.
I want my animals to be functional in nature as they are intended to be. I want my chickens to be broody and able to raise their own chicks. I think breeding that out of the birds is a terrible thing to do.
I have read that it is a bad thing to help a chicken hatch out of the egg. As hard as it would be not to help, if the chicken isn't strong enough to get itself out of its egg, should it really be used as a breeding chicken? Next thing you know, not only will birds not be able to brood their own chicks, we will breed such weak chicks we will have to help them all out of their eggs! Not a good thing.
I should be getting my first batch of Nankins before too long! I am so excited! Thank you Lund Poultry! And I have chicks on order from Mary Ann as well. Of course since it's so early in the season they will be indoors for longer than normal, but next winter, they will be outside in their coops for the winter. I want them as show birds, but I also want them to maintain their hardiness. I do not want to breed that out of them.
I will post pics when they get here!
Another question......I have successfully raised two batches of standard sized chickens and 17 ducks from day old chicks (and ducklings). All survived with flying colors. Now my question....is there anything in particular different about brooding bantams than standard sized chickens? Our brooder is a large plastic rubbermaid container. I used newspaper for the last two sets of chicks, but I understand that this can cause spraddle legs (fortunately it didn't with any of my chicks, but I don't want to cause problems for future batches). I also understand that pine shavings should be avoided at first so the chicks don't ingest any of it. I of course have a thermometer and one of those aluminum lights to clip onto the side for warmth. Waterer will have pebbles in it so no one drowns. Any suggestions or comments to help me successfully brood my Nankins when they get here?
- RioLindoAz
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- Sleeping
- Location: Yuma, Arizona
- Joined: 7/2007
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Spacing is important. Young Nankins have a tendency to peck eachother. ALOT. I had bare backs up until I let them out to free range. This was a huge issue with us, I'd constantly come home to a bunch of bloody backs In the brooder and had to do Major damage control with disinfecting and cleaning their wounds. I used some violet spray on stuff that worked wonders.. I didnt get any infections. Anyways, at around four weeks, I put them into one of the breeding pens outside (It was in the middle of winter, but we live in Southern Az, so the temps weren't all that bad.) which was 16sqft., plenty of space for 23 young chicks. I hung a high wattage red tinted bulb from the top of the pen about a foot and a half from the floor. This provided plenty of distractions, and slowed down the pecking issue. A week or two later, the pecking problem increased. I found out my problem was that the food wasnt high enough in protein. I began feeding them higher quality mash and started mixing my own feed. I also added vitimans to the water and allowed them to free range throughout the day. When they were about 6 weeks, the pecking stopped.
Here was my brooding setup:
A few weeks older. You can see where their feathers were plucked and the purple markings from from the spray I used (Great stuff!)
So feed your chicks some High quality, High protein feed. I sometimes feed them cooked beef just to give them extra protein. Throw small strips in the brooder, and they go crazy for them.
Since these were bred for free-ranging abilities, they demand a higher quality feed. If you can, allow them to free range when they get older.
- Location: Northern California
- Joined: 1/2011
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RioLindo, let me know if you want any pullets. I have decided to get out of Nankins. I have a dozen 2011 pullets, four 2010 and six 2009 hens. you are welcome to any of them you feel will fit your breeding program. Most of the hens are on the web site rdrfarm.com I also have a couple copies of Fields book on Nankins if you dont have a copy.
Let me know
RioLindo, let me know if you want any pullets. I have decided to get out of Nankins. I have a dozen 2011 pullets, four 2010 and six 2009 hens. you are welcome to any of them you feel will fit your breeding program. Most of the hens are on the web site rdrfarm.com I also have a couple copies of Fields book on Nankins if you dont have a copy.
Let me know
I would love a trio of your birds if you have any left. Are you going to Hollister?
Walt
- Location: Northern California
- Joined: 1/2011
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Walt, I will have most of them there. I didnt plan on shipping any till you had a chance to look at them. You are welcome to any of them you like. I told Rio she could have a couple pullets with good type. I will see you there.
I hate to see you getting out of them. Great, I'll see you in a couple weeks.
Walt
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