Self sustaining - Page 3

Barred Plymouth Rocks are considered to be somewhat broody, but as was mentioned, the hatchery lines are probably less broody. But remember, you really only need one good broody hen to hatch out chicks. If you get a bunch of Barred Plymouth Rock hens, you are likely to have a couple that will go broody once in a while.

 

The Australorp is considered a better egg layer than the Barred Rock, and Australorps are considered average for broodiness.

 

Both of these breeds are good choices for dual-purpose chickens that can reproduce on their own.

Wouldn't the point to be to not have more birds then you actually need? 

 

I'm lousy in math. So if you harvested 10 birds a month for the freezer (assuming that your family eats that many a month). Then how many DP birds would you need (again) assuming a 21 day incubation period and having 6 hens for eating eggs,  at any given time?

I have BR, hatchery stock. Zero broodiness.  I intend to get some quality, breeder stock in the near future.  If for no other reason than to have a more true to type Rock.  True to type in size, coloration, body type and broodiness.

If you have six hens and a rooster, and you want to harvest 120 chickens a year, that means you need to hatch 120 chicks a year. A few will go into the flock each year and a few older hens will be harvested each year to keep the flock productive.

 

You are going to need a couple of broody hens to hatch out 120 chicks a year.

 

So I would say six egg layers, two broody hens, one rooster, and you will hatch out 30 chicks every three months.

 

Here is what I would do: six Rhode Island Red hens as layers, two Buff Orpingtons as brooders, and a RIR rooster.

I'm fond of my mutt birds. Not because of size. Some are very small and scrawney - and not because they lay well - because they don't - but because they are crosses! And the genetic make up makes them not require any medications feeds or medicines. I don't want to eat it!

They aren't full grown in this photo. This is them cooping up for the night. Feeding time!

They are not broody so their eggs would need to be incubated but I have a lady who sells me these birds for 68 cents each. It's not worth my time to incubate at that cost. 

I stuff the small ones and we each get one for dinner. So I enjoy the variances. I have accepted that I will never make a Chicken Cordon Bleu. No stuffing these little breasts!

I will also mention that between the two of us we eat a whole chicken a day. Four chickens a week minmum! 

If I couldn't find mutts I would cross breed my own for the stronger genetics. A good egg layer and a good meat bird. It's half the fun seeing what you are going to get. (or what God gives you.)

We have the same problem with our registered goats... inbreeding or as they call line breeding. They get sick easy as babies... I'm going to cross everything. Hap-hazzardly. I just have better luck with it.

 

 

I understand. The grocery stores and most restaurants sell chicken that is full of hormones and who knows what else.

 

I understand that most chickens don't require medications. Maybe some of the chicken experts can tell me if this is true or not.

 

So you are raising chickens that do not lay eggs well, do not get very big, and do not go broody? I can see why these chickens are sold so cheaply. But at that price you can get some pretty cheap meat.

 

Have you thought about buying a few broody hens that will hatch out some chicks for you?

If only I know where to find some! I keep an eye on Craigslist but I am also a half hour from the smallest town. So if someone has a bird for 15 dollars it cost me another 20 to pick it up! I think I could get into "my own breed" - picking a few good ones out and caging them together and hatching my own... we just haven't gotten that far in building out buildings yet. 

Everyone has their own quirks for wanting to do birds their own way. I have nothing against hatcheries. But being that I can't find a chick starter feed without medication tells me something.

I just like my non-cookie cutter birds. It's like having a good bag of marbles.

Getting good and sick with cancer and visiting deaths door makes a person pretty funny about their food and the prospect of eating medicated animals even as babies. I guess I just take what I am comfortable with and make due. 

 

 

You made me curious because I thought chickens and Kansas would go together like bread and butter. :)

 

You are a long way from anywhere. It seems you would have to drive two hours each way to get anywhere.

 

Here is someone selling Barred Plymouth Rock hens for $5.50 each and 4-month-old mixed-breed chickens for $5 each. They are located in Missouri, about a two-hour drive each way from where you live. Like you said, about $20 to pick them up.

 

Here's the ad:

 

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/grd/2813689197.html

 

Ask the guy if he has some broody hens. :)

Edited by Bullitt - 2/3/12 at 9:36pm

My issue with hatchery birds isn't broodiness, it's size. My hatchery orpingtons go broody three times a year, each. But my breeder ones lay and go broody too. Difference is, the breeder ones are twice the size of the hatchery birds.

Chickens are chickens and sure you can eat any of them, from the smallest bantam on up. And they all lay an egg, eventually. If those are your only standards, then you're not looking for the "best" of anything or even "good." Mutt chickens that are not given any medicines nor get sick don't sound any better than mine, who don't get sick and aren't given any medicine. But my hens are 4-8 pounds live and I'm collecting 5-6 eggs a day right now from the 6 currently laying. Keep your little mutts and I'm keeping my orps.

Are you sure about that?  No hormones have been allowed in chickens for decades.  I'm no big fan of the industry, but let's be factual.