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Help! All of my eggs look like they have detached air cells - Page 4

post #31 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nksg75 View Post

Rubynala,
Why day of 16 to stop turning?
I understand the basics of the chick needing to get into hatching position, however have you noticed a big improvement with shipped eggs if you stop at day 16 vs 18?
I am assuming you Don't raise the humidity on day 16 like you do on day 18?

I've did a lot of reading on the this thread:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/704328/diary-notes-air-cell-detatched-shipped-eggs
and sorta just picked day 16 as a safe day to stop turning. Giving the chicks more time to position. I can't honestly say if it has greatly improved my hatch rates with shipped. It's just part of my "shipped" regimen. I still get a couple malpositions even when I stop turning early. I do not raise humidity until day 18/19 depending on the size of my air cells. Shipped eggs are so unpredictable! I had received a batch of call eggs that all had detached air cells. Only 2 made to week two. But about a week before lockdown I was sure one of the eggs quit. I didn't even bother to turn it anymore and that egg actually didn't quit and hatched! But I think it doesn't hurt to stop turning them a couple days early and better to give them every little chance you can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gapey View Post

Here are a couple of the eggs that are clearly developing (day 6). we could see some movement in them too. 



I'm a little confused by the candling pics. The one on the left is on day 6? The air cell on that egg looks huge for day 6! And can you take a pic of the air cell on the egg on the right, please? (I don't know if it's just the pic) but which end has the air cell on the egg on the right?
post #32 of 36
Ok, I have a question, I have 1/2 of my polish eggs in my homade incubator and all my other shipped eggs in the Brinsea Eco. My question is in regards to the polish in my homade incubator.
Out of 10 polish eggs that are developing I have 5 that have really jiggly air cells. I am on day 6. I let them rest 24 hrs after they arrived then put them in the incubator. I put them in the auto turn, but did not turn it on till the very end of day 2.
I thought the air cells were much more stable when I peeked at them the 2nd day.
Then yesterday I was looking at the eggs and noticed that one row seemed to bounce. Apparently that row was not either locked into place for some reason or another. Since it was only that row (I sat there and watched forever) that is the issue, I left the eggs that were in another row alone.
All the eggs with unstable air cells were of course in that row.
I took them out and put them in eggs cartons off to the side of the turner.
My question is since these five eggs are actually doing really well, or they were as of last night, should I just leave them and not turn them in the eggs carton?
I fear my fumbling hands would do more damage than good.
And is it possible that the air cells will reattach at this point?
Edited by Nksg75 - 5/4/16 at 6:43am
post #33 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubyNala97 View Post


I've did a lot of reading on the this thread:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/704328/diary-notes-air-cell-detatched-shipped-eggs
and sorta just picked day 16 as a safe day to stop turning. Giving the chicks more time to position. I can't honestly say if it has greatly improved my hatch rates with shipped. It's just part of my "shipped" regimen. I still get a couple malpositions even when I stop turning early. I do not raise humidity until day 18/19 depending on the size of my air cells. Shipped eggs are so unpredictable! I had received a batch of call eggs that all had detached air cells. Only 2 made to week two. But about a week before lockdown I was sure one of the eggs quit. I didn't even bother to turn it anymore and that egg actually didn't quit and hatched! But I think it doesn't hurt to stop turning them a couple days early and better to give them every little chance you can.
I'm a little confused by the candling pics. The one on the left is on day 6? The air cell on that egg looks huge for day 6! And can you take a pic of the air cell on the egg on the right, please? (I don't know if it's just the pic) but which end has the air cell on the egg on the right?

Actually the air sack on both of those eggs is on the top so you can't see it in this photo. I don't dare turn them upside down for fear of the air sack getting stuck in the wrong position. I'll mark the air sacks on them in my next candling tonight or tomorrow night. Not sure why the bottom of the egg is lighter on the left egg. I'm sure the air sack is at the top end of the egg on both of them though. It will be tricky to get a photo of it but will try. For these photos I had the candler attached to one of my light stands and sat the eggs on top while I took a pic with a tripod on timer. But can't do that if I'm candling from the top of the egg. 


Edited by gapey - 5/4/16 at 9:36am

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

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Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

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post #34 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubyNala97 View Post


I've did a lot of reading on the this thread:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/704328/diary-notes-air-cell-detatched-shipped-eggs
and sorta just picked day 16 as a safe day to stop turning. Giving the chicks more time to position. I can't honestly say if it has greatly improved my hatch rates with shipped. It's just part of my "shipped" regimen. I still get a couple malpositions even when I stop turning early. I do not raise humidity until day 18/19 depending on the size of my air cells. Shipped eggs are so unpredictable! I had received a batch of call eggs that all had detached air cells. Only 2 made to week two. But about a week before lockdown I was sure one of the eggs quit. I didn't even bother to turn it anymore and that egg actually didn't quit and hatched! But I think it doesn't hurt to stop turning them a couple days early and better to give them every little chance you can.
I'm a little confused by the candling pics. The one on the left is on day 6? The air cell on that egg looks huge for day 6! And can you take a pic of the air cell on the egg on the right, please? (I don't know if it's just the pic) but which end has the air cell on the egg on the right?

ok I did another candling tonight. bad news is the olive egger that previously showed signs of development now has a blood ring so I think that one is toast. There are now two with blood rings. There are still two left of the shipped eggs that still show signs of development though I only was able to see movement in one of the two eggs. The air sack didn't move around so I think it must have reattached which is good news. I took a photo candling from the top of the egg so you could see the air sack. My dark F2 olive egg eggs from my own hatch may also be developing. I could see a little better candling from the top and could barely see some veining in those so might be good there.

 

It's now day 10 and a half so am now halfway through the incubation. I marked the egg sacks on the 4 that appear to still be developing and will candle one more time before lock down. I think I will hatch them in an egg carton and remove all the rest of the eggs that show no sign of developing. I haven't removed any of them yet. 

 


Edited by gapey - 5/4/16 at 9:43pm

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

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Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

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post #35 of 36

Well shoot just did another candling and one of the svart hona's stopped developing at some point since the last candling. Only one svart hona left from the hatching eggs and the two olive eggers from my own flock. Best case scenario is I'll have three chicks hatch. I will likely purchase a few chicks locally to add to this hatch. I have a friend that recently hatched some chocolate and lavender orpingtons but they will be about a week and a half older than mine. They are pretty docile so the age difference should be ok.

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

Reply

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

Reply
post #36 of 36

Yesterday was hatch day so this is a final update on how it went. I've also got more pics and details on my blog: http://www.gapeysgrub.com/2016/04/hatching-shipped-eggs.html

 

Only 1 of the shipped eggs made it to lock down and it didn't start well for this one. She started pipping in the middle of the egg instead of where the air sack was the day before hatch day. Not good news from what I've read. I repositioned the egg so the pip end of the egg was up so she wouldn't drown. After a while she still hadn't pipped through the membrane, only the shell. 

 

The next morning, hatch day, at some point overnight the humidity dropped to 20%. eek. So the membrane likely dried out and she still hadn't made any progress. I figured she might run out of air so decided to poke a hole in the membrane for her so she could breath. I left her for most of the day as I didn't want to rush it in case she wasn't ready to come out. She didn't seem to be trying very hard to.  With the membrane drying out I was thinking she may not be able to move so decided it was time to intervene. I got a warm paper towel and pulled her out and started removing the shell. I removed all but the bottom part for her to sit on. I put her back in and hoped she would be able to get the rest of the way out on her own. a couple hours went by and she was struggling a bit and still not making any progress so I started to pull back the membrane. The membrane was pretty dry around her head and stuck on but with a little water was able to pll it back. I pulled it back about half way and eventually she was able to get out. 

 

I sure learned a lot from this hatch!

 

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

Reply

Paula

 

Layers: 1 production red, 2 easter eggers, 1 black copper marans, 1 silver laced wyandotte, 2 olive eggers, 1 barnyard mix | Roo: 1 olive egger | Chicks: 2 swedish flower, 5 svart hona

Reply
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