Originally Posted by CelticOaksFarm
Humidity for waterfowl is not raised until INTERNAL pip is confirmed. Even more so with geese, than ducks.
Gotta ask are you candling the fat end or pointy end? It looks like you candle the pointy end to me. If so its no wonder you are confused on changes. Only candle by placing the light against the fat end of the shell so you can see the air cell development and if the hatchling has internally pipped.
Many people live by the old school methods of lock down 3 days before set to hatch, raise the humidity, stop turning, don't touch.
Myself and many many other very successful goose breeders do not follow that train of thought.
Goose eggs incubate on their sides the entire way through
They are turned 180* an odd # of times a day (3-5)
Candle at days 7/10 to check for growing eggs and mark the air cell
Candle at day 21 and mark air cell change from first candle
3 days before due to hatch, stop turning leave on their sides
Candle again at the 3 days before hatch date to check for early internal peppers
Now the hard part
ONLY candle every 4-6 hours to check for internal pipping
Once they internally pip stop handling, raise humidity to 70-80% and leave alone, don't touch the egg again.
When dealing with geese and artificial incubation it is best to have an incubator and a hatcher. Not all eggs will internally pip at the same time. Some incubators have hot and cold spots resulting in slightly off hatching of the goslings.
Hatchers are just an incubator with NO fan
This allows you to move the internal peppers to the moister environment.
Once eggs start externally pipping don't open the hatcher for love or money for fear of loosing humidity and possible shrink wrapping.