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Chicken Tunnel - Need Dimension Advice

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

I want to make a tunnel/tube for the chickens to use to get from the coop to the run, because the run will be in kind of an awkward spot for now.  How large a tube (diameter) should it be to get standard hens through comfortably?  Thanks for your help!!

post #2 of 9

My Chunnel I believe is about 16" x 22".  A bit on the tall side but that is what was needed to clear the chicken door.

 

 

 

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Disclaimer:  I have not slept in any hotel recently nor am I a certified web lawyer.  Opinions expressed are by a cowpoke who believes the year is 1868.
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Disclaimer:  I have not slept in any hotel recently nor am I a certified web lawyer.  Opinions expressed are by a cowpoke who believes the year is 1868.
Reply
post #3 of 9

I use chicken tunnels made for transporting, isolating a chicken and connecting runs.

LL

The one on the left is a 1'x'1x3' tunnel I use to transport chicken for one location to another. The ones on right are for isolating chickens from one another and also connecting between larger tunnels I use in the garden. I use  2"x4" galvanized fencing for the arch and floor and cover the with 1/2" hardware cloth so chicken feet won't fall through when I pick them up. Each section is secured to the other with double gated fabric hooks. One foot high is large enough for large breeds to easily move through.

900x900px-LL-42084713_P4070013.jpeg

I don't use them very often as I usually just pick the chickens up when I move them around, but I have used them when transporting chicken in a vehicle. In the picture above the small tunnels are at this end of the run for storage.

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thank you for your help!  Jaxon, do you use the 2"x4" fencing for your runs too?  Could they withstand a little weight if an animal (predator) landed on it or would it crumble down? Seems like pretty sturdy stuff.  I'd really like to build something similar for our run, at least something to get us through the first couple years!

post #5 of 9

All section of the runs and coop are made from a 100'x5' roll of 2"x4" 12.5 guage galvanized welded wire fencing. Strength wise if you look at the previous picture you will notice a 5 gal. white bucket sitting on top of the run. That bucket is filled with water and weights over 40 lbs. When all sections and pavers are down, the structure is amazingly strong and has withstood 70 mpg winds, not to mention a family of foxes living near by, an opossum that lives under a shed in my backyard, and more raccoon than you can count. The base of each section, whether a run section or a coop section, is 5'x5'. The coop is 4' tall and the run sections are 2' tall. I use this setup with chickens to work over a garden bed before I plant it. To the right of the pictured above is a bed they had worked the week before that I planted to onions and zinnias. I still have the labor of moving the garden chicken tunnels, but the amount of work saved in hoeing such a big a garden more than makes up for it. Not to mention the eggs they give me for allowing them to work in my garden. There are lots of pictures in my default album of this setup.

post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaxon4141 View Post

All section of the runs and coop are made from a 100'x5' roll of 2"x4" 12.5 guage galvanized welded wire fencing. Strength wise if you look at the previous picture you will notice a 5 gal. white bucket sitting on top of the run. That bucket is filled with water and weights over 40 lbs. When all sections and pavers are down, the structure is amazingly strong and has withstood 70 mpg winds, not to mention a family of foxes living near by, an opossum that lives under a shed in my backyard, and more raccoon than you can count. The base of each section, whether a run section or a coop section, is 5'x5'. The coop is 4' tall and the run sections are 2' tall. I use this setup with chickens to work over a garden bed before I plant it. To the right of the pictured above is a bed they had worked the week before that I planted to onions and zinnias. I still have the labor of moving the garden chicken tunnels, but the amount of work saved in hoeing such a big a garden more than makes up for it. Not to mention the eggs they give me for allowing them to work in my garden. There are lots of pictures in my default album of this setup.

 

Oh I've already seen all the pictures, and I pretty much think you're a genius.  I love it!  Thank you SO much for the details!wee.gif

post #7 of 9
Jason
Thanks for the details. I plan on moving this tunnel 360 degrees in order to replant pecked areas with purslane .
Tiffani
post #8 of 9

Looking to build some of the chicken run modules like until Jaxon4141's.   I have a question about the wire gauge used.  I see that 12.5 gauge is used.    Is the 14 gauge wire not strong enough to maintain the arch?  And/Or is not strong enough to keep out predictors? 

 

Thanks,  Jennifer

post #9 of 9

I just posted this in response to this thread.  Was going to post as a reply, but thought it better to just make a new thread.  http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1024739/the-atf-chicken-dome-creating-an-easily-movable-run-enclosure-for-our-chickens

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