I was mostly concerned with where the element comes in direct contact with the plastic.
Who's built a homemade electric scalder? - Page 3
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Oh okay. Great question. The element I used has a metal "flange mount" and gasket which isolates the element from the plastic. Also, since it is submerged in water any heat conducted from the element to the flange is dissipated pretty effectively. Hope this helps. Mark
I'm working on making one of your scalders right now. I'm looking at your photos and I'm trying to figure out how to mount the flange, exactly. The kit comes with two gaskets...a square one and a round one.
In your pic, it appears that the metal flange is mounted on the outside of the barrel. Then you just sandwiched the barrel wall between the hex screw and the flange. I am assuming you have the square gasket sitting in front of the metal flange, on the outside of the barrel, to prevent leaks. Is that right?
Also, it looks like you are using the round gasket on the inside somewhere, but I can't tell how.
I'm also guess you had to buy some nuts for the screws provided in the universal flange mount, because mine didn't come with any nuts.
Did you use any silicone for added leak protection?
Perhaps our elements are a little different in style. I bolted the flange to the outside of the tank sandwiching both rubber seals on the outside as well. So, from the wall of the tank out, it is round gasket, then flat gasket, then metal flange. I did not use silicone on the bolts, but in retrospect I could have. I have not had any leaks so far. As for the nuts, mine did not come with either bolts or nuts. I believe I chose stainless steel for rust reasons. Would love to see some pics of yours when complete. I hope someone will keep making improvements on this model as time goes on.
Of course, the real key to this machine is the electronic temperature controller. Precise scald temps/time yield a precise pluck.
Thank you so much for replying so promptly.
I couldn't actually find an element that came with the flange, so I purchased a universal flange kit from Camco for installing these elements when you don't have any sport of mounting bracket. After you posted, I looked at the element again , and it actually comes with a round, rubber gasket already mounted at the base of the threads. I think this will negate the need for an additional round gasket, which does not seem to fit well onto the flange anyway.
I guess I'll splurge for the stainless bolts, too. :^( Don't want to destroy the thing in two years trying to get it apart if I need to repair it and everything has rusted.
I have the ETC-1100 as you (and Herrick Kimball) recommended. I'm sure I'll be contacting you again when it's time to wire everything. That is definitely out of my comfort zone and it sounds like the instructions aren't great for amateurs.
I really wanted to try to make this with metal instead of plastic. I don't like to put my food in heated plastic, even if I am just dunking a feathered bird for a few seconds. But the problem with hot water tanks is they are all rusted and leaking when people get rid of them. And I'm not buying a new one just to cut it open.
Geoffrey. It sounds like you're on your way! I agree with your comment about plastic. I've thought long about alternative materials, but many have drawbacks (cost or operational). One concession with the HDPE is that it is considered a "safe plastic", unlike polycarbonate or PVC which releases bad stuff. However, all plastics seem to release detectable amounts of endocrine reactants. At only 145 degrees I am comfortable with the risks.
I could photograph my connections for you and post them here. Also, not in the photos is a plastic cover I made to conceal the connections to the heating element.
Also, I bolted the base of the scalder to the tank with two 1/4" x 20 stainless bolts with flat rubber sink washers.
Sorry for the late reply. I was in class. It looks like you found a source for instruction for wiring the Ranco. Just to highlight, the "cord" that connects to the outlet is wired into the 120 (black wire) and COM (white). The wire going to the heating element is connected to COM (white) and NO (black). Then, you must install a jumper wire from 120 to the C terminal.
Hope this helps.