Updated - Corid and Amprol (amprolium) Dosing

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Mike, in my opinion you are wasting your money on non-gmo feed. I know there are zealots out there that are true believers but they just won't accept the science that proves that there is nothing in gmo foods that will hurt us or our animals. I am a beekeeper and know doctors that are beekeepers too and they have given me a new awakening that has disproved my old concerns. If you want to be concerned about your food I would suggest that you look closely to the neonicotinoids.

http://www.theguardian.com/environm...3/aug/05/neonicotinoids-ddt-pesticides-nature
 
zazouse said:
So when do you worm them?? you are not suppose to worm them during breeding season that is 4 to 5 months and then you are not suppose to worm them during a molt which can take 7 to 8 months for a peacock to grow it's new train so now a year has gone by and you have not wormed them :idunno  I worm mine at least ever 3 months now and see no feathers effected at all
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I use fenbendazole towards the end of winter, 2 doses 10 days apart, the rest of the year I use levamisole . After speaking with the vet and doing my own research I have come to the decision that in order for the fenbendazole to be effective it has to be dosed more frequently . That is why most vets prescribe it over several days. But I am referring to chickens not peas.
 
I had the other sick pullet that was acting lethargic. I've been bringing her in the house at night where she gets "fourth meal" and stays a bit warmer than outside. She is also being treated with corid. In the morning she gets a bowl of easy to digest food before putting her back out in the coop with the bigger birds. I basically want her to eat as much as she can so she'll gain weight. She loves corn, cucumbers, cantaloupe with seeds, hard boiled eggs and grapes. She is feeling so much better now that she wanted to sleep in a nest box outside with her sister. I'm starting to think she wasn't sick at all, but rather is just too small for the weather we are having. Unfortunately she is 3 months old and too big to be living in the house, plus we have a new batch of chicks hatching in 10 days.
 
KsKingBee said:
The name of the thread should probably be changed and I would if I knew how.  The feather damage question was quickly resolved and put aside.  The thread is more important for helping people to understand the proper measuring and dosing options for Safeguard.  Some threads like this one will take you on a learning journey and the reason I stay involved here at BYC.
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Kathy is the OP so I'm not sure that she would want the title changed and yes it is a very useful thread for amprolium dosage. When recommending any product it is best to have a good understanding of the possible side effects. BYC is a great learning tool and it is seeking answers to our questions that will have brought most of us here in the first place. When it comes to measures and maths I trust Kathy .
 
Fancychooklady said:
Kathy is the OP so I'm not sure that she would want the title changed and yes it is a very useful thread for amprolium dosage. When recommending any product it is best to have a good understanding of the possible side effects. BYC is a great learning tool and it is seeking answers to our questions that will have brought most of us here in the first place. When it comes to measures and maths I trust Kathy .
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We've had a couple of threads going on more or less the same stuff lately... I kinda assumed @KsKingBee was referring to the one he actually started, which was interestingly enough titled "Safeguard and Feather Damage While Molting" when he was talking about wishing he could change the title... A lot of similar (and very helpful) information is ending up both places
clap.gif
 
Thank you @Garden Peas , it was in post 179 I recommended that Mike10 read the thread on Safeguard dosing and feather damage giving a link to it, in post 180 FancyChooks replied that Safeguard is not recommended during molt. I had a feeling that she did not actually read the thread but just commented on it because of the title. I still recommend that Mike10 read the entire thread as he may get some good ideas on dosing and perhaps some feeding options that will get him away from the hard seed diet his hen is on now.
 
Garden Peas said:
We've had a couple of threads going on more or less the same stuff lately...  I kinda assumed @KsKingBee
was referring to the one he actually started, which was interestingly enough titled "Safeguard and Feather Damage While Molting" when he was talking about wishing he could change the title...  A lot of similar (and very helpful) information is ending up both places :clap  
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Oh I see.
 
Fancychooklady said:
I think it is .5ml per kilo of bird ( 2.2lb ) . So your average large fowl would be around 1.5 ml. I don't mix mine with water. It is also important to redose in 7-10 days.
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That is the correct amount for roundworms and cecal worms, but one needs to treat for 5 days when treating for capillary worms.

-Kathy
 
Fancychooklady said:
Quote: Chickens, peas, turkeys, ducks... don't think it matters, seems that most veterinary literature says the same stuff, so with the exception of pigeons and doves, that's how I treat all of my birds. Seems pigeons and doves are less tolerant to the higher doses of fenbendazole and albendazole, so I'm looking into that.

-Kathy
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