Is this a rat?

DoubletakeFarm said:

Good luck and keep us updated! If I had to deal with a rat again (God forbid), I would try the water bucket method. That's basically what finally worked for me, although I didn't do it on purpose. I'd keep the bucket well away from the chickens though. Now that I think about it I don't know how I would do that. And it would freeze in the winter. Well, we're all praying I don't have to deal with another rat (Right? Right?)

On another note, I did buy one of those enclosed poison bait traps. I'm afraid to use it anywhere near my livestock so I put it outside my fence just for safe measure.

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TCchickies13 said:

Hope this helps-

Rats/Graduate Level- the Norway Rat (rattus rattus)- I guarantee this is YOUR rat.

Boy, are you right. Rats are Amazing!
The reason I have more success with the smaller trigger plate is that the bait (big hunk of smoked sausage/couple of hunks of slim jim) will disguise the trigger.
Just my experience.
One important behavior you should understand- Rats are neophobic (skeptical if not fearful of new "things" in their little world. It can take days for the rats to investigate the trap).
You do not have just a rat. I'm sorry to tell you that you have a rat population that is setting up home.
In order to eliminate the rat issue, you need to consider these facts- Rats have a social structure. Honest. There are three levels in the rat colony. The dominate (Alpha), the "Middle" (Beta), and the "dregs" of the colony (Omega).
This is important- The first rats will you see and kill are the Alpha's. They are larger and healthier that the others.Their home is the room inside the entrance of the colony. They live closer to the food and water, and eat only the best foods. It is critical to kill the Alpha's. The Alpha's will come out any time it is quiet, not only at night. These rats will quickly learn about dangers like traps alone and these rats are the rats that will balloon the population is not eliminated. Once you begin to see rats that are smaller and thinner or with a coat of lesser quality, you have turned the tide. The second rats you will see are the Beta's.
Once the Alpha's are gone, the Beta's move up a floor in the colony. These rats are not as smart and are much more fearful. They are also hungrier and will accept a bait in relative short order. When you begin catching or seeing, well, "scurvy", skinny, smaller and visibly less healthy than the others, you are at the "Goal Line". Remain diligent and you will win.

Now rats will do "things" with traps like-
Jumping over them- So, drill a small hole through the base of the trap opposite the trigger plate. Use a piece of wire to attach 2 traps together about 2-3" apart.
Pushing them to set them off. If this happens, secure it to the floor with a small nail or screw.
In general, place some perpendicular, as well as along a wall (the double trap set-up) where you know the rats run. Place some traps in areas where you see droppings.
Look around and identify as many areas where there is activity both in and out.

My friend, I would like you to consider a "poison". Rats, and other rodents, have a strange physical trait that we can exploit. Rats are unable to digest and metabolize Vitamin D3.
We can. Your livestock can. Your pets can. A mouse can not! Rats can not! There exist compounds that will assist you greatly in conjunction with traps. One such Rodent Bait Is TERAD3.
I keep this around the farm for just such instances. It won't hurt my dogs, cows or chickens. I highly recommend you use these in pellet formulation. Please, to ease your concerns, review the label for the product:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Terad3_Pellets_Label.pdf

This is a good price: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/terad3-pellets-lb-pail-p-1280.html

I also recommend that you purchase a couple of bait stations. These stations will keep the bait dry and palatable for a long time, are tamper proof and may be placed anywhere you are seeing rat activity. Any of the stations in your budget will suffice- here are some choices and some good information:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/rat-bait-stations-c-21_333.html?page=1

If, the previously mentioned efforts are unsuccessful, I am sorry to say and I understand how you feel about poisons, you will need a single dose anti-coagulant rodent bait. These baits, when used properly, are safe, The amount of active ingredient in these baits are too low to kill a dog or other, larger mammals. If, however, you suspect one of your animals is ill due to ingesting this type of bait, FEED THE ANIMAL WITH A FOOD THAT IS HIGH IN VITAMIN K. Vitamin K is the antidote and is in most dog foods and is an easy supplement to find. Honest. One just needs to be observant.

This is a bait I use routinely for "bad situations":

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Contrac_Blox Label.pdf

I prefer the blocks and bait station:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/contrac-blox-rodenticide-p-80.html

Well, there you go. I'm ready for another cup of coffee. Get with me if you have any questions or further problems.
Good Luck-

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