De-worming chickens. - Page 6

^ What an excellent post!

An excelelnt article, thank you SO much for doing the research!  I picked up Wazine (piperazine) at Tractor Supply Company and it says to use 2 ounces per one gallon of water and repeat, if necessary after 10 days.  However, it says not to use in chickens where eggs are for human consumption, but not for how LONG.  Two different chicken people that I speak with have told me 14 days if I only treat them once, or 30 days if I treat them twice as a good rule of thumb.  General consensus at BYC would be.....?  BTW, they are NOT showing ANY signs of worms.  The Amber link is 8 months old, the rhode island reds are about 6 months.  One red is producing one egg daily, the other...nada.  The AL is new to the coop and is just settling in, so no eggs there yet.  No problems throwing the eggs to my dog instead of to the fam, just wondering for how long, lol!

Misinformation in post # 50. Ivermectin 1% injectable does not kill worms in chickens due to worm resistance over the years. Additionally... ivermectin pastes, injectables, pour ons and eprinex do not kill tapeworms.
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1439-0450.1989.tb00635.x/abstract

Dawg, thank you for sharing all your worming knowledge.

I find it interesting that of the available benzimidazoles, albendazole (Valbazen) is the only one approved for human use. Food for thought.

Again, thank you! Thanks to all the information you've shared, I've no need to go repeating worming questions

Great thread.

One thing to add.

After many years of use, the worms are becoming more resistant to the antihelmetics. I attended an equine seminar which explained the new worming techniques. THe goal is not to elminate all parasite but rather to keep the level at a managable level for that animal. Hence, the need for fecals to give only the antihelmetic to target the specific problem; and only give meds if mod-high infestation. Most animals have the ability to keep a low load. But any number of things, stress, over exposure, less than ideal nutrition, can allow the internal parasite population to flourish. The financial hiccup is that treatment is far less expensive than the cost of doing fecals. But routine worming is less desirable than worming as needed as the parasites become more resistant.

I dont know about equine. In chickens, what damage can a "managable" wormload do internally? ONE roundworm can lay thousands of eggs in one day to be excreted onto your soil only to be picked up by your other chickens infecting them, starting the worms lifecycle all over again. A regular worming schedule will take care of this problem. Ensure wormers are rotated. Environment and soil normally dictates how often birds should be wormed. Stress in chickens can cause all kinds of problems.

Another THANKS for your valuable chicken knowledge and your willingness to share it with us.  Don't ever go away from BackYard Chickens.

How di you give the worming meds- valpirazine?   I have bantams and lightweight birds mostly.  They need deworming and i dont want to kill anybody.  Have read about the valparazine SP? and the others ===want the best. esp. if i can give in the waterer.
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by chknfun 

How di you give the worming meds- valpirazine?   I have bantams and lightweight birds mostly.  They need deworming and i dont want to kill anybody.  Have read about the valparazine SP? and the others ===want the best. esp. if i can give in the waterer.
 

Valbazen cattle/sheep wormer, Jefferslivestock.com carries it. For your small birds, dose orally 1/4cc to each bird. Redose them again 10 days later. Standard size birds 1/2cc orally, redose again in 10 days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dawg53 

Valbazen cattle/sheep wormer, Jefferslivestock.com carries it. For your small birds, dose orally 1/4cc to each bird. Redose them again 10 days later. Standard size birds 1/2cc orally, redose again in 10 days.

In post #50 it says to mix Valbazen with water.  Which is the correct way, undiluted or diluted?  Thanks