Top Ten Worming and Wormer Misinformations - Graphic Pictures!

That, and not withholding feed for 24 hours prior to worming and not redosing every 4th day in three dosing increments. It's really not hard to do and easier than administering a paste.

We're supposed to withhold food for 24 hours prior to worming (with any kind of wormer?). How long to wait after giving them a dose before feeding them again? How can you do that if you're doing the 5 day worming? And this is the first time I remember reading an 'every 4th day in three dosing increments'. What's this now?
 
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B. No need to redose in 10 days, five days in a row is enough.
    When you worm you birds in the future, (depending on your soil conditions) skip the wazine and just use the safeguard and rotate later
    down the road with valbazen.

Am I correct in understanding that next time, it will just be 5 days Valbazen, then time after that 5 days safeguard, etc., rotating every few months, (not saying do one, followed immediately by the other - I mean 6 months inbetween) and with doing 5 days, I don't ever have to re-dose 2 weeks later?

Your expertise has been invaluable!


Valbazen dose is 0.08 ml per pound orally for *one* day, then again in 10 days. Your average sized Rhode Island Red hen should get about 0.5ml (1/2 cc).

Safeguard should be used at ~ 0.23ml per pound for *five* consecutive days to treat capillary worms and gapeworms.

-Kathy
 
Valbazen dose is 0.08 ml per pound orally for *one* day, then again in 10 days. Your average sized Rhode Island Red hen should get about 0.5ml (1/2 cc).

Safeguard should be used at ~ 0.23ml per pound for *five* consecutive days to treat capillary worms and gapeworms.

-Kathy

All the info you need in one post! Thanx!
I really should worm mine for spring but with 63 chickens and just me, I'm just not looking forward to the battle. sigh.
 
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All the info you need in one post! Thanx!
I really should worm mine for spring but with 63 chickens and just me, I'm just not looking forward to the battle. sigh.
It's not as bad as you think. There's nothing saying that you have to worm all your birds in one day. You can worm them in two or three days...by breed. For example; RIR's and White Leghorns the first day; Cinnamon Queens, Orps and BR's the second day etc...Just write down on a calender what breeds you wormed the first day, the second day, and the third day if necessary. Then reworm in the same order as necessary. Mark it on your calender for future reference as well. Good luck.
 
Sorry to confuse you Patti. Tapeworms are difficult to get rid of in chickens. There's not that many wormers that will treat them. You'll see rice-like segments in feces, a sign of tapeworms. Valbazen will kill them, but requires a different protocol to get rid of them. I've dealt with tapeworms.
When there's no sign of tapeworm segments, I give my standard size birds 1/2cc orally undiluted and redose the same amount 10 days later. No problem.
Hi dawg53,

I've seen your expertise in worming mentioned in a couple different BYC threads, and I've seen you say a couple times that if tapeworm signs are present, you can use Valbazen but you have to use a special protocol. What is that protocol? The only thing I've found is the half cc per standard size bird ten days apart, which if I understand your comment above correctly, isn't sufficient for a tapeworm infestation.

I got a couple new birds from a feed store that I didn't look over as carefully as I should have. One has scaly leg mites, I found lice on the other (I'm sure they both had them), and today I saw the little rice-grain bits wiggling around on their droppings. Can't believe this place is selling them in this condition! Anyway, I'm treating the leg mites, I treated for lice and any other external parasites today with a permethrin dip, and now I need to do something about the tapeworms.

I plan to use Valbazen but I'd love to know more about the dosage and procedure for tapeworm elimination.

Thanks in advance!!
 
Hi dawg53,

I've seen your expertise in worming mentioned in a couple different BYC threads, and I've seen you say a couple times that if tapeworm signs are present, you can use Valbazen but you have to use a special protocol. What is that protocol? The only thing I've found is the half cc per standard size bird ten days apart, which if I understand your comment above correctly, isn't sufficient for a tapeworm infestation.

I got a couple new birds from a feed store that I didn't look over as carefully as I should have. One has scaly leg mites, I found lice on the other (I'm sure they both had them), and today I saw the little rice-grain bits wiggling around on their droppings. Can't believe this place is selling them in this condition! Anyway, I'm treating the leg mites, I treated for lice and any other external parasites today with a permethrin dip, and now I need to do something about the tapeworms.

I plan to use Valbazen but I'd love to know more about the dosage and procedure for tapeworm elimination.

Thanks in advance!!

From what I've gathered by reading all these post, for Valbezen you use 0.5 ml for an average 6 lb bird.
For Safeguard, 1.5ml for an average 6 lb bird.
One dose now and then in 10 days is for roundworms. If you have multiple worms or tapes, then it is that dose for 5 days in a row.
I just read where you're supposed to hold their food 24 hours prior to dosing but I've posted a question to dawg about that; first time I remember reading that. Not sure then how long you'd have to wait to feed them after dosing if you're supposed to hold food 24 hours.
MY this part of chicken raising can be a pain.
 
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See post #7 in this link on how to treat for tapeworms: You shouldnt have bought those birds. Tapeworm segments will release hundreds of eggs contaminating your soil...not to mention scaly leg mites and lice. Of the three, scaly leg mites and tapeworms will be the most difficult to get rid of.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/806524/prevention-cures-for-tapeworm-or-any-worms-really
You can also use Zimectrin Gold equine paste to get rid of tapeworms. See post #5 in this link for dosing directions:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/949369/tapeworm-valbazen-ineffective-graphic-poo-video-attached
Use either wormer, but not both at the same time. Do not mix in water.
 
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I always "thought" tape worms came from fleas? seems years ago a vet told me that one.
Fleas are the host for infective tapeworm eggs for most animals, chickens too if they manage to eat one. Chickens eat all types of insects, that's how they are infected with tapeworms and other types of worms. That's called an"indirect" lifecycle when the worm egg(s) have a host. A "direct" lifecycle is when the chicken pecks the ground, which they do constantly, picks up worm eggs directly from the soil. The only way to slow or stop the worms lifecycle is to worm birds on a regular basis. Worming birds regularly kills the worms, then they cant lay eggs to contaminate your soil. It's that simple. It's an ongoing battle for an age old problem. Some worm eggs can survive in soil for years, even in frozen soil. There are some folks here in this forum that believe since they live in the frozen upper midwest or north, they dont have to worm their birds or have never wormed their birds as long as they have owned them. It's true that their soil may be frozen 10 months of the year, but during the two warm months of the year, microbic growth and reproduction of organisms are greatest. That's when their birds will get worms. Then in a month or two they wonder why their birds become lethargic and die off, or they die from some type of respiratory disease...root cause due to worms weakening their birds immune system. I've seen it happen and it's preventable.
 
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