failed hatch

cityboi53

In the Brooder
5 Years
Dec 9, 2014
11
0
24
Methuen, MA
Auto turner was fine, kept the temp at 100/101 to be safe in case the thermometer wasn't accurate. Had about 7 eggs, 1 grew veins and came almost to full term, but after 21 days passed, we saw no movement or development. Cracked it open after we were certain it was dead, little chick was fully formed, but stiff and never hatched. After reading more perhaps we didn't stabilize the humidity enough. Any other thoughts? We almost want to scrap the bator and let our hens brood in a separate coop.
 
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400
Here is our big guy, I'll add a pic of the misses later.
 
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Auto turner was fine, kept the temp at 100/101 to be safe in case the thermometer wasn't accurate. Had about 7 eggs, 1 grew veins and came almost to full term, but after 21 days passed, we saw no movement or development. Cracked it open after we were certain it was dead, little chick was fully formed, but stiff and never hatched. After reading more perhaps we didn't stabilize the humidity enough. Any other thoughts? We almost want to scrap the bator and let our hens brood in a separate coop.
You can't guess at the temp being correct. My first hatch was a failure because I trusted a brand new thermometer that ended up being 6 degrees off. Never again. I now keep 3 thermometers in the bator and am planning on buying the egg o meter for my next hatch to replace one of the thermometers. If you are using a still air, you need 101-102 for temp average, if you are using a forced air you need an average of 99.5 You also need proper humidity especially during hatch time. The eggs need to loose enough moisture during the incubation, so that the air cells grow at the right rate. People will argue what the right humidity is but if you are monitoring the air cells you'll know how to adjust the humidity. I switched to the dry incubation and prefer it.
 

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