Well...
I outgrew my two Little Giant incubators that served me well last year hatching turkeys and chickens, but I could only set 80 chicken or 40 turkey eggs between the two. I bought (and rehomed) a beautiful vintage redwood incubator, but it was a 325 watt, 420 egg incubator, and quite a bit too big to keep in the house. Brinsea models are too small, and GQF Sportsman are too expensive.
So I did the next best thing...I built one. I didn't see any plans I liked.
My design criteria were:
Good airflow / no dead air pockets
Auto turners
Incubate and hatch a total of around 200 chicken/100 turkey at once, either staggered or single set
Digital temperature and humidity controls
Reasonably low energy consumption
Good ventilation to avoid the condensation prevalent in the LGs at hatch
Small footprint
Quiet
And easy on my budget.
The incubator I built was inspired by the classic redwood Farm Master and the GQF sportsman. I have not yet set any eggs, but it's been running 48 hours with less than 1/2 degree temperature variation in temperature. Top to bottom, front to back, all areas of all trays are the same temperature.
This year it will run as an unfinished model, encased only in the Polyshield foil faced sheathing and rigid pink Foamular sides. The door is simply a slab of foam held on with L brackets. The internals are finished, and the chassis was constructed mostly of 1 x 3 pine as that is what I had handy. I built it from the inside out, and it ended up 24" x 24" x 42".
There are three shallow trays and two 5 1/2" deep boxes, all on recycled drawer slides. The three shallow trays are dedicated incubation trays, and the two deeper ones are intended for hatching.
I used four LG egg turners to provide the auto turning capacity. This was the biggest expense of the entire project.
I used an STC-1000 temp controller and a digital humidity controller to power switched receptacles in the back of the cabinet. The turners are unswitched, they run all the time when plugged in. There is one "heat" switched receptacle, one "cool" switched receptacle, and two "humidity" controlled receptacles. One of the humidity controlled receptacles powers a tiny aquarium air pump and pumps air through a stone in the water tray.
Heat is provided by a ceramic reptile heating element, 150 watt, in a ceramic socket. I drilled a hole in rectangular duct to fit the socket, which has a threaded insert to lock it to the duct. I insulated the duct with foil faced bubble wrap because I had it, but I later realized that this step was not necessary as all heat is contained in the box anyhow. I fitted a 6" computer fan to a cutout in the duct, slightly higher than the heating element, so the air is picked up at the top of the cabinet, pushed down through the duct past the heating element, and out the bottom via a 90 degree adapter. The warm air passes over a water pan (a pair of old pie tins), and convection lifts the warm air back to the top of the cabinet, where the cycle begins again.
Once I've done the necessary fine tuning, I will design a wooden cabinet for the incubator (again from scrap materials on hand).
In the photos below, the lowest drawer is removed for ease of water pan filling. I fitted a scrap of foam across the bottom of the front as a deflector to assist in the air circulation.
Now to fill it up and test it!
I outgrew my two Little Giant incubators that served me well last year hatching turkeys and chickens, but I could only set 80 chicken or 40 turkey eggs between the two. I bought (and rehomed) a beautiful vintage redwood incubator, but it was a 325 watt, 420 egg incubator, and quite a bit too big to keep in the house. Brinsea models are too small, and GQF Sportsman are too expensive.
So I did the next best thing...I built one. I didn't see any plans I liked.
My design criteria were:
Good airflow / no dead air pockets
Auto turners
Incubate and hatch a total of around 200 chicken/100 turkey at once, either staggered or single set
Digital temperature and humidity controls
Reasonably low energy consumption
Good ventilation to avoid the condensation prevalent in the LGs at hatch
Small footprint
Quiet
And easy on my budget.
The incubator I built was inspired by the classic redwood Farm Master and the GQF sportsman. I have not yet set any eggs, but it's been running 48 hours with less than 1/2 degree temperature variation in temperature. Top to bottom, front to back, all areas of all trays are the same temperature.
This year it will run as an unfinished model, encased only in the Polyshield foil faced sheathing and rigid pink Foamular sides. The door is simply a slab of foam held on with L brackets. The internals are finished, and the chassis was constructed mostly of 1 x 3 pine as that is what I had handy. I built it from the inside out, and it ended up 24" x 24" x 42".
There are three shallow trays and two 5 1/2" deep boxes, all on recycled drawer slides. The three shallow trays are dedicated incubation trays, and the two deeper ones are intended for hatching.
I used four LG egg turners to provide the auto turning capacity. This was the biggest expense of the entire project.
I used an STC-1000 temp controller and a digital humidity controller to power switched receptacles in the back of the cabinet. The turners are unswitched, they run all the time when plugged in. There is one "heat" switched receptacle, one "cool" switched receptacle, and two "humidity" controlled receptacles. One of the humidity controlled receptacles powers a tiny aquarium air pump and pumps air through a stone in the water tray.
Heat is provided by a ceramic reptile heating element, 150 watt, in a ceramic socket. I drilled a hole in rectangular duct to fit the socket, which has a threaded insert to lock it to the duct. I insulated the duct with foil faced bubble wrap because I had it, but I later realized that this step was not necessary as all heat is contained in the box anyhow. I fitted a 6" computer fan to a cutout in the duct, slightly higher than the heating element, so the air is picked up at the top of the cabinet, pushed down through the duct past the heating element, and out the bottom via a 90 degree adapter. The warm air passes over a water pan (a pair of old pie tins), and convection lifts the warm air back to the top of the cabinet, where the cycle begins again.
Once I've done the necessary fine tuning, I will design a wooden cabinet for the incubator (again from scrap materials on hand).
In the photos below, the lowest drawer is removed for ease of water pan filling. I fitted a scrap of foam across the bottom of the front as a deflector to assist in the air circulation.
Now to fill it up and test it!