Trapping Chicken Killers

JJSS89

Songster
5 Years
May 14, 2014
744
154
113
E Washington
Hi all,
So I'm relatively new to this forum. I have been raising poultry for 15 years.

I have been a licensed Wildlife Control Operator since 2009 and I've been trapping nuisance wildlife and for commercial fur for over ten years. If you want to bash that, please do it via PM so we don't derail this thread.

I would like to answer questions about trapping and dealing with specific predators and obviously others can chime in too. This is designed for people to learn how to effectively remove problem animals.

**DISCLAIMER** every state has a unique set of laws, it is up to you to act appropriately. I will just give advice on what works and you are responsible for acting legally and ethically.
 
We have cats skunks and raccoon I have a live trap is that what's best? I also found some really odd looking droppings would you be able to identify the owner? Lol
 
We have cats skunks and raccoon I have a live trap is that what's best? I also found some really odd looking droppings would you be able to identify the owner? Lol

For skunks, raccoons and cats, a cage trap is a good option. All three species will willingly enter a trap. Skunks in particular have a penchant for entering small spaces. If you have a cage trapped skunk, proceed slowly and with caution...cover with a tarp and gingerly move it to the area where you intend to dispatch it.

I could narrow it down based on droppings...try to leave something like a quarter for size reference.
 
Quote:
For skunks, raccoons and cats, a cage trap is a good option. All three species will willingly enter a trap. Skunks in particular have a penchant for entering small spaces. If you have a cage trapped skunk, proceed slowly and with caution...cover with a tarp and gingerly move it to the area where you intend to dispatch it.

I could narrow it down based on droppings...try to leave something like a quarter for size reference.
Good advice.... One thing I would like to add, when using a cage trap make a tunnel. If you have raccoons getting in your trash block the cans around the trap so they can't pick it up and leave some bait around the cans. They love small spaces so I set the trap back in a bit when they squeeze in behind the cans it funnels them right through the trap. Same with a coop, if you make the trap look like a way in or a hole they will go through it every time. The tunnel is the most effective way I have found yet to trap problem animals.
 
If you have the slightest inkling that it might be skunk wrap the trap before you set it out. I made the mistake of putting an uncovered unbaited trap on a trail I could see coming out of the bushes. The next morning there was a skunk in there with a clear line of sight in every direction. I ended up draping a tarp over the trap by dangling it over trap on a 20 foot metal pipe so I wouldn't get sprayed.
 
Indeed, also there is a double door polyurethane trap that is made out of large PVC pipe and is very effective for skunks. They won't spray in an enclosed pipe like that.

For raccoons and possums, dog proof (DP) traps are effective and can be set anywhere without risking injury to dogs.

One thing to note is that very rarely is the bait in the trap going to be as intriguing as fresh meat to your predator. One very effective method is to make the entrance to the coop the trap.
 
If you have the slightest inkling that it might be skunk wrap the trap before you set it out. I made the mistake of putting an uncovered unbaited trap on a trail I could see coming out of the bushes. The next morning there was a skunk in there with a clear line of sight in every direction. I ended up draping a tarp over the trap by dangling it over trap on a 20 foot metal pipe so I wouldn't get sprayed.

You should have just covered yourself with the tarp (like a ghost) until you were close enough to get it over the trap.
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Sounds dumb but I had to do it once when I picked up 2 baby skunks who's mother was road kill, covered myself until I was close enough to throw it over them, it worked, but I had to throw away a perfectly good blanket.
 
Rabbits are not usually too difficult, a Havahart type trap or guillotine door style trap would work well. Size? 7X7X24 is a good size for cottontails and hares but if it's bigger (not sure if it's domestic or something specific to Ireland) then going bigger wouldn't hurt. Minimize human scent and cover the trap bottom with natural duff or grass etc. so that it doesn't feel like unlike what they're used to.

Bait? It depends on the available vegetation. If it's still cold, brown winter then carrots, lettuce, apples, radishes, etc. will work great. Rabbits are tougher to trap when there is more vegetation available. Blind sets work well. This is when the trap is the travel-way of the animal. Like if they have a tunnel through briars, to set a tunnel style
 

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