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I hope everything works out for you guys, Tracy. You sound like you have a lot going on, we had to start small and work our way up for the sake of everyone involved. What we wanted and what was best for the animals in our care were two different things.
If you believe in god, then know that those animals are his creations, too.
Just remember, sometimes less is more.
Please listen to the advise the people on backyard Chickens are giving you.
Good luck, and I mean that.
In over our head and loving every minute! Currently fancying Old School Rhode Island Reds, Blue Laced Red Wyandottes, Rhodebars, B/B/S Australorps
It's about sewing new seeds and strengthening old roots.
I know you're trying to help but you may want to give up on this. I've told this person multiple times in multiple threads the exact same thing and she is adamant that she needs to mess with her broody ducks, put heat lamps over them, put heat pads under them and their eggs, and now something about adding a shower curtain? This is all in Las Vegas Nevada where it is very hot, so this poster is putting hot heat lamps and heating pads on possible broody ducks (we don't know for sure they're actually broody) and is probably overheating both them and the eggs. Also the eggs might not even be fertile because at one point they had separated the drake from the females and no word on if they were ever put back together so at this point the eggs may not even be fertile. Also the female ducks were still laying eggs, a sure sign of not actually being broody (which this poster was also told).
On the incubator front, they have stated that they are doing this outside. Yes, their incubators are running outside in the hot Nevada sun and elements. When told this was the problem and to bring them in, they said they can't because it would hurt a family member's health to run them inside. So this might give you some insight on why they are having so many problems. But now they're talking about different room temps so maybe they did bring them inside? We don't know.
The frustration you are seeing above is stemming from the fact that this poster posts multiple times across multiple threads (usually copying and pasting) asking for the same advice that they have already been given. They take none of the advice and come up with their own 'solutions' that don't work and then come back and ask for help again, rinse and repeat.
Anyway this post might also help anyone who wants to give advice to know exactly what this poster's set up is, so if you have any tips that might work with this kind of incubator setup feel free to post them, but at this rate I don't think this person will ever get eggs to hatch.
She's gonna end up over heating her and KILLING Everything. That WOULD BE THE WORST THING TO HEAR ABOUT. We have to keep trying to get threw to her. It's OK to run a bator outside, I have done it. Yes, and I have hatched out little buggers.
So I don't really see that a problem but your right she did mention the room temps being different? I would just hate to hear about her OVER HEATING all her females and her cooking all her eggs. But if that happens she should know EXACTLY WHY it did happen...
You have have the bator outside and still hatch. i don't see the issue there. My concern is the Blind duck, has she gone broody, if so DO you have Just access to water for her?? She doesn't need ANY other source of heat. She will Over heat if you do.
Can you show us a pic of your Bator? i would LOVE to see this. Four Fans, I can tell you that's TO many, you only need ONE for Circulation. That bator will take FOR EVER to reach up to temp..
Maybe it's just your posts, but it seems like you jump from one "solution" to another trying to fix a constantly changing problem.
Eggs need 99.5-100.5 degrees for the full incubation period.
Eggs need humidity ranging from 35% - 45% for the incubation period other than the last 3 days.
Eggs need to be gently but completely turned 3 or more times a day.
For the last 3 days, the humidity should be around 65%-70% and don't turn the eggs and don't open the incubator but DO leave the vent plugs open.
This isn't overly complex. You can incubate in a shoebox in the closet if you spend enough time adjusting things to keep this temperature and humidity, but a decent incubator sure does make life easy.
You do not need heating pads or heat lamps if your incubator has a thermostat.
You do not need to blow fans in your duck house. Shade, water and ventilation...duck does the rest. Same for chickens.
Herniated navels means high hatch humidity or poor sanitation in the hatcher.
There is no way on earth that you should be putting your family and home at risk by overloading electrical circuits.
YOUR SOOO RIGHT, you don't need to be a ROCKET SCIENTIST to make an incubator work..
We have stayed pretty close to 99.5 101.00 in both incubators the humidity is the hardest one to keep stable . It can 45-50 in little gaint . Sept for these morning it ran not water for test run of it after cleaning it out . At 70%. That one we usually do 1-18 days. Pro series usually will go 50-80% if I don't watch it carefully it's very sensitive to any water or to much water. If it rains it's worse.18-to finish line.
Try putting ZERO water in the bator, I don't put a DROP of water in my bator until the last Three days..
WHO NEEDS HEAT?? I'm so at a lost here. An adult duck does NOT need heat, and Adult chick does not need heat. Heat should ONLY be used for hatching purposes and baby chicks only.
You want to know whats REALLY great for controlling humidity?