Building Your Own Chicken Coop Plans Supplies Materials

1. Cut and install the 2 x 4 subfascia along the eaves (see the EAVE DETAIL Below). Keep the ends flush with the outsides of the overhang rafters, and the bottom edges flush with the bottom rafter edges; use 16d nails.

2. Install the 1 x 6 fascia along the gable overhangs, then along the eaves, holding it 1/2" above the rafters so it will be flush with the sheathing; use 6d galv. finish nails.

3. Install the 7/16" OSB sheathing, starting at a lower corner of the roof; use 8d box nails driven every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the field of the sheets.
4. Attach metal drip edge along the eaves, then apply 15# building paper over the sheathing. Add dripedge along the gable ends, over the paper.
5. Install the asphalt shingles, starting at the eave edge. If desired, install roof vents.
Step F: Install the Soffits & Siding
1. Cut twelve 2 x 2 nailers to fit between the rafters, as shown in the EAVE DETAIL. Fasten the nailers between the rafters with 10d face nails or 8d toenails.
2. Rip the 3/8" plywood soffit panels to fit between the wall framing and the fascia. Fasten the soffits to the rafters with 3d galv. box nails.
3. Cut holes for four soffit vents: locate one vent in each of the two outer rafter bays, along the eave, on both sides of the building. Install the soffit vents.
4. Install the plywood siding, using 8d galv. finish nails. Butt the top edges of the siding against the soffits. Don't nail the siding to the rear-window and door headers in this step. At the gable ends, install Z-flashing along the top edge of siding, then continue the siding up to the soffits.
Note: Along the side walls, 8-ft. siding will cover the floor plywood by about 1/2" (this is necessary); if you want the siding to cover the floor framing, use 4 x 9-ft. sheets.
Step G: Build & Install the Doors
1. Cut out the bottom plate from the door opening.
2. Cut the door frame pieces from 3/4" x 4 1/2" (actual dimension) cedar: cut the head jamb at 61 1/4" and the side jambs at 81 7/8". Assemble the frame by screwing through the head jamb and into the side jambs with 2 1/2" deck screws.
3. Cut 1 x 2 stops and install them inside the jambs with 1 1/4" deck screws or 3d galv. finish nails. If the doors will swing out, install the stops 2 1/4" from the outside edges of the frame; if they'll swing in, install the stops 2 1/4" from the inside edges.
4. Install the door frame in the rough opening, using shims and 10d galv. casing nails. Make sure the frame is square and plumb.
5. Cut twelve pieces of 1 x 6 tongue-&-groove boards at 81 3/4". For each door, fit together six boards with their ends flush, then mark the two end boards for trimming so that the total width is 30". Trim the end boards.
6. Cut the Z-brace boards following the DOOR ELEVATIONS. Lay the doors on a flat surface and attach the brace boards using construction adhesive and l 1/4" wood screws.
7. Install the hinges and hang the door, using shims to set the gaps at the bottom and top of each door.
8. Install flashing above the door, nail-off the siding, then install the 1 x 4 door trim, using 8d galv. finish nails.
Step H: Build & Install the Windows & Trim
Note: If you've bought pre-hung windows for the coop, install them following the manufacturer's directions.
To build homemade windows, use the following directions.
1. For each window, cut the 3/4" x 4 1/4" frame stock to form a rectangular frame with outer dimensions that are 1/2" shorter and narrower than the rough opening. Assemble the frame with 2 1/2" deck screws. Cut and install a 2 x 4 mullion in the center of the frame for the side-wall window.
2. Install each window frame in its rough opening, using shims and a level to make sure the frame is plumb and level and the jambs are straight. Fasten the frame with 10d galv. casing nails.
3. Cut the 1 x 2 stops. Bevel the outer sill stops as shown in the WINDOW JAMB DETAIL. Attach the inner stops with 6d galv. finish nails. Order the glass to fit.
4. Install the glass and outer stops, applying glazing tape to the stops on both sides of the glass. Install the 1 x 4 window trim.
5. Install the horizontal 1 x 4 trim as shown in the ELEVATIONS. Fasten the trim with 8d galv. finish nails.
6. Install the 1 x 4 corner trim so that it butts against the horizontal trim and extends to the bottom edges of the siding.
7. Caulk along all trim joints, where trim meets siding, and around the door and window trim.
Step I: Build the Ramp (Optional)
Determining the width and length (and thus the slope) of the ramp is up to you, but here is the basic construction procedure:
1. Determine the best slope for the ramp using boards or plywood set on the ground and the shed floor. Mark the ground to represent the end of the ramp.
2. Cut two 2 x 8 pads to the full width of the ramp.
3. Measure the distance from the ground to the shed floor; subtract 2" from that dimension to get the height of the tapered stringers.
4. Use the ground marking to determine the length of the stringers-be sure to account for the 1 1/2" thickness of the decking. Cut the tapered stringers from 2 x 8 lumber: cut one for each end and one for every 16" to 24" in between.
5. Attach the pads to the stringers with 16d galv. nails driven through the bottom faces of the pads and into the stringers.
6. Cut 2 x 4s for the ramp decking-the number needed depends on the length of the sloping sides of the stringers. Allow for a 1/8" gap between decking boards when calculating the number needed.
7. Attach the decking boards to the supports with 16d galv. nails or 3" deck screws, maintaining a 1/8" gap between boards.
8. Set the ramp in place against the shed and fasten it by toe nailing through the end stringers and top decking board with 3 1/2" deck screws.
My Modifications
1. I decided to make 16x16 openings in the gable wall for ventilation.
2. I also decided to use a insect screen and hard wire cloth to cover the window and vents. I put the hardwire inside to keep the birds off the window sill and to allow a plywood cover to be framed forming a tight seal during the winter.
3. Nest Boxes... I wanted exterior nest boxes to help save interior space, I framed the nest boxes just as I framed the walls except I turned the finished framing on its side and screwed the bottom plates to the wall framing. I used a single piece of plywood for each bottom and cut partitions to divide the boxes. I used 2x2's as nailers on the bottom. The roof for the nest boxes was added after the siding was applied to the building. I took a long 2x4 and cut the same angle as the roof then put it on top of the nest box framing. I set the angle flush with the building siding and marked a 3 inch overhang. I cut the plumb angle and used this rafter as a template. After the rafters were cut I used screws to secure them to the building using the 16 on center studs as anchor points. I did not add doors to the nest boxes to help keep them dry. You can easily add doors by cutting the opening in the siding and adding hinges.
4. Roost... I started with a 2x6 and cut it plumb to the floor, I nailed the top to the rear exterior studs and screwed the cut end to the floor. I added pieces of 2x4 on the exterior wall and attached 2x4's to the top of the scraps lying flat. I then used wood screws to attach the 2x4's to the 2x6; taking care to assure the roosts were level. Everyone says they look like stadium seating. The outdoor roost is a 1.25" closet pole mounted in 36" 4x4s buried 20" in the ground.
5. Door... I cut 2x4's at 74 inches and cut a 45 degree angle on both corners, I did the same on 29" 2x4s, I saved the cut off ends and used those as a support for the corners of the framing. Once the framing was assembled I applied a piece of 7/16" OSB. I added the hinges and hung the door.
The Almost Finished Product
Some Pics of the Flock
The Roo...
The Older Girls...
The New Chicks....we got them on 7/23/09 from McMurrary Hatchery....at the bottom roost on the right is my Buff Orp who survived a dog attack.
Things Left to Finish and Change

• I still need to paint and add the trim work. I also need to build a partition wall inside the coop. After the chicks are ready to integrate with the older members of the flock I need to add the pop door and ladder.

• What I would add or change.

• I would like to add a window over the nest box and two windows, one on either side of the door. I want to add to the run and increase the size from it's current 12x18 to 15x20 and add netting over the top.

At this point in the construction I have roughly $50.00 total in materials, and another $20.00 in tools (always an excuse to buy more tools!). I got all of the lumber, shingles, and nails for FREE! Do not be afraid to stop at a construction site and ask if you can get scrap wood. The construction company has to pay to dump the scraps in a landfill; you will be helping them save some money while getting the things you need and helping to save the environment. Search your local Craigslist for deals on other materials. I got a new roll of roofing paper for $5. Shop around; know what the going rate is for your materials so you can jump on the good deals. I got all of the pine shavings you see for free on Craigslist also, I had to drive an hour each way, but I got a full size pickup load, enough for me and my friend. Ultimately free is free.
This basic plan can be modified to suit any size coop you wish to build; the only changes you have to make are the measurements. You can add windows wherever you like by following the guidelines in the window section. Consider all of your modifications before you begin framing. Modifications are sometimes difficult to make after you apply the siding. Take your time doing the framing. The key to any good structure is the framing. I hope this guide will help you succeed with building your New Chicken Coop.