Chicken First Aid Kits - Handy and Essential Supplies, and How to Use Them

Sometimes in chicken-keeping, things happen that no one expects. It could be a sudden disease, a squabble between birds causing injuries, or even...
By pipdzipdnreadytogo · Feb 6, 2013 · Updated Aug 31, 2015 · ·
  1. pipdzipdnreadytogo
    Chicken First Aid Kits

    Sometimes in chicken-keeping, things happen that no one expects. It could be a sudden disease, a squabble between birds causing injuries, or even a predator attack that leaves your birds wounded and weak. For your birds, having certain supplies on hand could make the difference between a recovery and a loss.

    The list that I have compiled below is as extensive as I could make it, and you may find that many of the items you won’t ever need. I do suggest that anyone keeping chickens, whether as livestock or as pets, keep at least the supplies for emergencies on hand where they can find them.

    As a disclaimer, I’d like to note that I am not a veterinarian, nor am I involved in any way in the medical field. Both of my parents are in the (human) medical field and I have followed their advice for some of the supplies I’ve picked for my own chicken first aid kit and some of the information I have added to this page. Much more of the information below is from some in-depth research around BYC.

    If you need immediate help, try typing in your birds’ symptoms in the search bar or making a thread at the Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures board!

    Protecting Yourself and Your Patient

    Vinyl or Latex Gloves
    Gloves can protect your bird from anything on your hands, and prevent you from getting anything on your hands that you might carry out to healthy birds. For the queasy, having a protective layer on may help as you work in an emergency, and it makes cleaning up afterwards a little easier.

    Protective Eyewear and Mask
    If you are performing a procedure (such as a bumblefoot surgery), having protective gear for your face can be valuable to prevent anything from getting on your face. It will also prevent you from breathing anything into your bird’s wounds.

    Rubbing Alcohol
    When performing any sort of surgery, it is important to clean the area on the bird first. Rubbing alcohol is an effective way to clean and disinfect the skin, but should not be used near the bird’s eyes. Rubbing alcohol can also be used to disinfect minor cuts and scrapes, but should not be used for deep wounds.


    Aspirin is used to alleviate pain. Avoid using aspirin if the bird is bleeding, as aspirin causes the blood to thin and can make bleeding worse. The ideal dose of Aspirin is 25 grains or 1625 mg per gallon of water.

    This chart from Chicken Health for Dummies explains how to prepare and administer an Aspirin solution. Note that Aspirin is difficult to mix into water and sometimes won't mix completely into a solution, and so it should be stirred often and changed at least daily. Enteric coated aspirin is not preferred for mixing into water.


    For Emergencies

    Hydrogen Peroxide
    Hydrogen peroxide is useful for cleaning wounds. Dilute it in a solution of equal parts hydrogen peroxide and water before applying. Rinse the wound out after the solution has done its work. Many posts around BYC say that hydrogen peroxide slows healing because it also kills healthy cells, so it is recommended that you only use it for the initial cleaning of a wound.

    Chlorhexidine Solution
    Chlorhexidine solution is a wound cleaner that does not kill healthy flesh as Hydrogen Peroxide allegedly does. This can be used in the initial cleaning of a wound instead of hydrogen peroxide or used in any following cleanings after the use of hydrogen peroxide.

    Triple Antibiotic Ointment (Neosporin)
    Triple antibiotic ointment is used to prevent infection and promote healing in wounds. There are many posts on BYC that state that you should not use the ointment that has pain relief. However, other posts say that as long as the pain reliever in the ointment is NOT a “caine” type (like benzocaine or lidocaine), it is okay for use in chickens. Still others have found that there is no problem with using any of these painkillers on chickens. If it makes you more comfortable, I would suggest buying the kind without pain relief to have on hand. However, do your research to decide what is best for your birds. Triple antibiotic ointment should be applied to a wound only after it has been cleaned. It also works well when needing to keep an egg membrane from drying out during emergency hatching assistance.

    Please note that some ingredients of triple antibiotic ointment are not approved for use in laying hens when applied orally. Tests for egg withdrawal when used topically have not been performed to my knowledge. Use at your own discretion!


    Vetericyn HydroGel Spray
    Vetericyn comes highly recommended as a wound covering. Use to cover clean wounds instead of ointment, spraying wounds at least twice a day. Safe for all animal species, and safe for ingestion.

    Non-Stick Pads, Gauze, Waterproof Tape, Self-Adhering First Aid Wrap (VetWrap)
    These products are all to cover and protect wounds, especially if the bird will be going back outside after treatment. Large non-stick pads are very convenient in case of large wounds, and can be cut to size for smaller injuries. Gauze holds the pad in place and waterproof tape prevents water from getting in. The self-adhering first aid wrap can be used to cover the bandage if the bird or other birds are picking at them. If the wound is on a foot, cover it with duct tape instead of first aid wrap to prevent dirt and droppings from sticking and to add another layer of waterproofing.


    Dog Crate, Carrier, Large Box, or Small Coop for a Hospital Pen
    Once a bird is cleaned up and seems to have stabilized, they could go back out to the flock, but if a bird is weak, in shock, or sick for another reason, they may have to stay in a hospital pen. If you prefer not to have a chicken in your house, a small coop works for the job; just keep it very clean and make sure that the bird has plenty of ventilation, no drafts, and predator protection. If you think it necessary, a small dog crate or carrier can be used inside for a bird to stay in and heal. Be aware that any bird that is away from the flock for a long period of time may be forgotten by her flock and have to be carefully integrated back in.

    Lubricating Jelly (K-Y Jelly) and Hemorrhoid Cream (Preparation H)
    These two supplies are in case of a prolapse. The area should be cleaned with mild soapy water before beginning. Hemorrhoid cream eases swelling and hopefully makes the bird more comfortable. Lubricating jelly allows the prolapsed tissue to be gently pushed back in.

    Diphenhydramine Allergy Liquid for Children (Benadryl)

    Diphenhydramine liquid can be used if a hen has been bitten or stung by something nasty. Treatment is 1 mL of liquid for an adult bird. (I have read about Benadryl tablets being used as well, but I cannot find a dosage for it.)

    Amprolium (Corid) or Sulfamethazine Sodium (Sulmet)
    Corid and Sulmet are both treatments for coccidiosis in young chickens. Typically, coccidiosis does not affect adult birds, and so you should only need these on hand if you are planning on adding new chicks to your flock. Chicks with coccidiosis will be lethargic and spend much of their time standing with their feathers fluffed out. Typically (but not always) there will be loose, bloody stools passed by the birds who have coccidiosis.
    Amprolium is recommended more because Sulfamethazine Sodium can be harsher on the guts of affected birds and extend the period of bleeding. Corid (a common Amprolium brand name) usually comes in a 20% soluble powder or a 9.6% liquid. For the POWDER, dose 3/4 teaspoons per gallon of water for at least 5 days; 1 1/2 teaspoons per gallon for 5 days is recommended for severe outbreaks. For the LIQUID, dose 1 teaspoon per gallon of water for 5-7 days; in the case of severe outbreaks, use 2 teaspoons per gallon for the same length of time. Change the water daily for both!
    Sulmet (a common Sulfamethazine Sodium brand name) can be used if Corid is unavailable where you live or if Corid has failed to help your birds. The dosage for Sulmet liquid is 2 tablespoons per gallon for two days, then 1 tablespoon per gallon for an additional 4 days. Also change the water daily for Sulmet!
    Sulmet is not approved for use in birds producing eggs for human consumption, so use at your own discretion in egg laying flocks! Corid (Amprolium) is approved for use in poultry with no withdrawal time for eggs; however, some recommend withdrawing eggs for at least 10 days because some residues are found in eggs for as long.

    Vitamins & Electrolytes (Sav-A-Chick)

    Vitamins and electrolytes give birds a boost in extreme heat and can help them if they’re in shock from a predator attack. Sav-A-Chick is at many feed stores and comes in pre-dosed packets—one packet per gallon of water. There are also pouches of Durvet Vitamins & Electrolytes sold at feed stores for use in any livestock. The dosage I use of Durvet Vitamins & Electrolytes for my chickens is 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water.

    Petroleum Jelly or Coconut Oil
    Petroleum jelly has a few uses, including suffocating scaly leg mites and protecting combs and wattles from frostbite. Coconut oil can be used in the same way and is regarded as a more natural alternative. In either case, when applying for leg mites, use a thick coat, but when applying for frostbite prevention, only use a thin layer! In the case of frostbite, coconut oil cooking spray can make application easier and faster. I have heard that coconut oil is also good for healing wounds or slowing damage from already established frostbite as an alternative to antibiotic ointment, so I decided to put it in the emergency section.

    Preparations for Euthanasia
    Like it or not, sometimes you simply cannot help a sick or injured chicken. And when a vet office will not help you with this task, or you cannot afford to have it done at a vet's office, you'll have to be ready to do this yourself. I am not going to cover this here, but there are a few articles and threads here on BYC that talk about ways of euthanizing chicks and chickens. I will link some at the bottom of this page.

    Handy to Have Around

    Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)
    ACV is a worm preventative, reduces slime buildup in waterers, and has many healthy benefits to birds. It is typically recommended that you buy the unfiltered kind with the ‘mother’ still in it. Store-bought, filtered ACV will have no ill effects on your birds, but may not have as many benefits as the unfiltered kind. Dosage is usually between 1 and 3 tablespoons per gallon of water.
    NEVER, EVER, EVER use ACV in galvanized waterers! The acidity causes corrosion of the metal, which can lead to zinc poisoning in your birds.

    Various Syringes
    Syringes can be used for administering medicines when used properly, or careful encouragement to take water by dripping it on the outside of the beak and letting it roll inside. They are also handy if you need to tube-feed a bird that is refusing to eat. I keep syringes from 3 mL up to 60 mL, and with oral, Luer slip, and catheter tips for dosing medicines and wormers, and feeding or getting water into birds. Consider keeping needles (and, if you prefer, Luer lock syringes) for administering fluids and medicine via injection as well.


    Epsom Salt

    Epsom salt is handy for soaking bumblefoot, can be used in warm baths for sore muscles or hens who are egg bound, and can be used in a drench as a laxative to clear the system. For baths, there are usually instructions on how much to use on the back of the package; generally, 1-2 cups per gallon of warm water is suggested. For a laxative drench, it can be administered in two ways. For an easier method, remove all water from access and replace it with Epsom salt water at the rate of one teaspoon per cup of water for one full day. If you would rather administer it all at once and let your bird have regular water to drink through the day, dissolve one teaspoon of Epsom salt in about 2 tablespoons of warm water and carefully drop it on her beak so that it rolls in and she drinks it, or administer it as you would a liquid medication.

    Cotton Swabs (Q-Tips)
    Cotton swabs allow you to apply ointments and clean wounds with relative ease. It’s a good idea to keep some with your first aid kit to be safe.

    Pet Nail Trimmers and Nail File
    These are good for clipping overgrown beaks and nails, and filing them down to prevent them from snagging on things or breaking. While they may not be needed often in a free-ranging flock, they are good to have at hand in case you really do need them. I recommend the scissor-like trimmers over the guillotine-like kind for better control and visibility of what you’re working with.

    Scalpels, Tweezers, Small Needle and Thread or Super Glue
    Scalpels and tweezers are handy in case you need to perform some sort of surgery on one of your birds, such as a bumblefoot surgery. Be sure to sanitize before beginning, and clean thoroughly after the surgery is finished! The needle and thread allow you to apply stitches to the opening to help it heal. Fishing line works well as the thread, but remember to sanitize it before using it! Super glue can also be used to close a wound if the skin is dry.
    Superglue is also handy to have on hand in the case of a broken beak. Sometimes, the beak will break and fall off, but if it does not break off fully or is just cracked, superglue can be used with a tiny piece of thin fabric or filter paper to hold the pieces together until the beak heals. Use just enough glue to dampen the fabric--making sure not to use too much!--and place over the cleaned and held together crack. Hold the crack together until the glue has a chance to dry some, and keep the bird contained until it dries fully.

    A small flashlight will help you find and clearly see the wound that you’re treating. A bright desk lamp can be used in exchange during treatments that require the use of both hands.

    Scissors are all-around useful to keep where you can find them easily. Use them to cut gauze or tape, remove old bandages, clip poopy feathers out of a hen’s vent, or even clip wings to prevent flighty hens from flying over fences. Wash after use!

    A scale allows you to keep a close eye on a bird’s weight to make sure it is at an appropriate level. If you’re force-feeding or tube-feeding a bird, this can let you know if you’re giving the bird enough to eat or not. Many medicines also have a by-weight dosage, making a scale a useful tool to keep for emergencies.

    Old Towels or Shirts
    These items can be used in multiple ways and are really handy to keep with your first aid kit! Use them to wrap birds to hold them still for treatment. Fashion a sling for a bird that is having trouble walking, or make saddles for birds whose feathers are getting worn out. Use them for quick floor covering for hospital pens; clean by wiping or rinsing off any droppings and throwing them in the washing machine.

    Flour, Corn Starch, or Blood-Stop Powder
    Flour, corn starch, and blood-stop powder, as you may have guessed, help to stop bleeding in minor wounds. Use if you have accidentally cut a bird's toenail too short or if they have minor bleeding such as with broken nails, blood feathers, and small cuts or scratches on their combs. Sprinkle the wound with a little flour or powder and apply pressure until the bleeding stops. These are not to be used on deep wounds, so I am putting them in the 'Handy to Have Around' section.

    Zipper Baggies or Small Jars and a Permanent Marker
    Zipper baggies of assorted sizes and small jars like baby food jars can allow you to store medicines and powders in a resealable container. Use the marker to clearly label what is in each bag or jar, and don't forget to add the date it was opened!

    Locations of Purchase

    Much of this list can be found at your regular store in the first aid or pharmacy section. However, a few of these items may be a bit trickier to find.

    Corid and Sav-A-Chick or other vitamin / electrolyte mixes should be readily available at your feed store. Search in both the area where chicken supplies are stocked, and in the area for large livestock. Corid and Durvet Vitamins & Electrolytes, for example, are in the cattle area at my feed store. Syringes can also be found at feed stores along with large livestock meds. You may also be able to find syringes in the pharmacy section of a regular store. Vetericyn may or may not be stocked at feed stores as well, but can be found online at places like Amazon and

    Scalpels may be trickier to find. They can be found at veterinary or medical supply stores, or at educational supply stores. It may be a bit gruesome, but scalpels, tweezers or forceps, and scissors are all typically found packaged together in dissection tool kits, which are often sold at educational supply stores or online.

    Blood-stop powder, as well as pet nail trimmers and dog crates or pet carriers, can be found in pet stores.

    Scales are available in several places, depending on the type of scale you get. I would recommend a good kitchen scale, infant scale, or postage scale, each which should be available in a regular store or online.

    If there's anything else that you aren't sure where to find, feel free to comment below and I'll add it here!

    Additional Advice

    In order to keep all of this stuff together, you can store it in a tote, a toolbox, or really any sort of container that’s big enough to hold it all. I use a toolbox with the tray removed, clearly labeled so that I or anyone else can always identify it.


    Another good idea given to me by my parents was the expiration date list:


    With a quick glance, I can see what is going out of date the soonest and if something is already out of date. To save space, you can just write the item that is going to go out of date soonest.

    My water-soluble powder medicines and supplements are stored in the freezer. This extends the expiration date a little and adds some peace of mind to using medicines that have been open for a while. An additional tip—I keep them in separate resealable baggies with dosages written on the baggies. Always read package labels to make sure that medicines can handle freezing temperatures! Some medicines, like Sulfadimethoxine, should not be frozen for best results.

    Questions? Comments? Suggestions?

    I am happy to hear anything in regards to this page, especially if it is something that can make it better! Please PM me with thoughts on useful changes, suggestions for other items to be included, corrections, absolutely anything! I will take all messages into consideration for improving this page. Thank you for your thoughts!

    Links to Informative Threads and Pages

    Bumblefoot Surgery (Graphic Pictures!)

    Crop Surgery and Excellent Wound Stitching How-To (Graphic Pictures!)


    Tube Feeding: Thread, Page

    Treating Wounds (Beware of Graphic Pictures!): Wounded by Dog, Wounded by Rooster’s Spur, Excellent Post on Wound Care, Some Info About Shock, Using Super Glue on Wounds

    Stings and Snake Bites: Wasp Stings, Scorpion Sting, Non-Venomous Snake Bite

    Pain Relief: Aspirin Dosage, Caution on Using Aspirin

    Coccidiosis: Prevention and Remedies, About Coccidiosis and Symptoms

    Extreme Heat: Heat Exhaustion, Lots of Ideas for Keeping Birds Cool

    Thoughts on Combining Medicines and Wound Treatments: Possible Dangerous Combinations

    Poultry Pedia; helpful information for diagnosing, especially leg issues.

    Euthanasia: Humane Euthanasia Article, Ways to Euthanize a Chicken Article, Euthanasia Discussion (with methods outlined among the posts)

    In Honor of Blizzy
    Whose illness I was simply not prepared for.


    Spring 2009 to December 13, 2012

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Recent User Reviews

  1. Carolrich
    "Great Article For Making Chicken First Aid Kit"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed Apr 5, 2019
    This article is very thorough and as far as I can tell, was well researched. The article should be printed and placed inside your kit. At the end of the article is a dedication to the author's hen that is heart breaking. I, too, had a hen in the beginning of my chicken keeping that I could have saved had I known more. Thanks for a fine article!
  2. Attila the Hen
    "First Aid Kit"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed Feb 24, 2019
    I really enjoyed this article. It was very informative. I already have virtually everything mentioned although I am nowhere near as organized as you! The part about storing meds was most helpful.
    thank you
  3. AmaranthineAcres
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed Jan 28, 2019
    Thank you for this extensive and well-explained list. It's a lifesaver!
    Cryss likes this.


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  1. Cryss
    This is an important part of caring for chickens since often there are no vets that care for chickens. Something I have yet to see in posts that list first aid items is information on where or how to acquire things like syringes, needles, scalpels, and perscription medications like antibiotics. Perhaps you could add a postscript?
    Also, if one uses blucote does that mean the meat is permanently not for human consumption or will it eventually dissipate?
    1. pipdzipdnreadytogo
      Thanks for the suggestion! I'll add some info on where to find some of these things ASAP.

      As for Blu-Kote and withdrawal times, I believe it's another case where it hasn't been studied in poultry to find how long it lingers in the system, and therefore they just stamp a 'not approved' on it rather than suggest any withdrawal time. As far as the FDA is concerned, the meat is permanently not for human consumption. That said, it's very unlikely that it will stay in their system forever, but one could only speculate as to how long it stays there once applied.
      Cryss likes this.
  2. funnyfoshay
  3. Debbi H
    Thank you for so much useful information. And thank you for updating your article with new info. I have a lot of what you've suggested, but I see some things that I can add to my "chicken kit".
  4. Ducksandchickens
  5. GoodOldDays
    This is a really in-depth wonderful post.
    But what about meat and eggs?
    I didn't research all of them but blu-kote can't be used on meat producing animals.
    1. pipdzipdnreadytogo
      Thank you for the suggestion! To be honest, when I wrote this years ago, I didn't even think about egg or meat withdrawal times! I've added the withdrawal times that I have found and a note about not being approved for poultry where appropriate. I also went ahead and removed Blu-Kote, as I no longer use it and wouldn't recommend its use anymore. Thanks again! :)
  6. RachelGM
    Being new to keeping chickens, I found this very useful. I shall now take this list and see what I can find, thank you!
  7. PrincessLea2
    I'm so glad I read this! I've been wanting to put together a chicken 1st aide kit. And I may have put ACV into their galvanized waterer! I'm going to go change it right now But is there anything I should do or watch for? This is only the first time I tried that...
    1. pipdzipdnreadytogo
      Hi, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner! I believe lethargy, paleness, loss of appetite, and increased thirst are the initial signs of zinc toxicity; however, these are also common symptoms of other ailments, as is unfortunately the truth with many chicken ailments. Birds with extreme cases of zinc toxicity may exhibit partial paralysis, bloody droppings, and even seizures. If it's only been out for a little while, it isn't likely that your birds will have suffered toxicity, as long as you changed it out immediately and gave them plenty of fresh water to drink from! I hope that helps! :)
  8. JustRambling
    This is a wonderfully written, interest catching article. Being new to chicken ownership, I found it extremely helpful! Thank you so much for writing it. Thank you to Blizzy for being the inspiration. :)
  9. Sylvester017
    Very nice first-aid kit list. I keep most of my medicines refrigerated to keep the oily contents of some medications from turning rancid in our hot humid climate zone.

    I like triple antibiotic ointment for chicken use except that my vet gives me a special ophthalmic triple antibiotic prescription that won't irritate the eyes of a chicken if applied anywhere on the head or face. I never thought about regular OTC triple antibiotic ointment irritating eyeballs so just wanted to share that little bit of trivia from my vet.
    1. pipdzipdnreadytogo
      Thanks for the info! I've seen people recommend triple anti for eye injuries, so I'll be sure to keep that in mind and recommend against that the next time I see it happen! :)
  10. techbsmith
    Great article - thank you so much for sharing the wisdom :bow
  11. TLCMidMichigan
    Any chance on getting this to print?
      JustRambling likes this.
  12. GGRinger
    Great Article Thanx for the list Now I need to go shopping
  13. GGRinger
    Great Article Thanx for the list Now I need to go shopping
  14. Cluckcluck1215
    Ok,( runs to the bath room with ipad )ok I got all my thing now I have to put it together opps for got sav- a-chick!thanks this is so good
  15. Gwynny7
    Thank you for such a great list!!
  16. pipdzipdnreadytogo
    Ooo, thanks for the suggestions, Wisher! I even added blood stop powder to my own first aid kit a while ago, but forgot to update the article! Will get to that as soon as possible!
  17. Wisher1000
    I almost forgot!
    7. A baggie of flour to use to stop bleeding. You can also buy blood stop powder, but flour works as well.
      PrincessLea2 likes this.
  18. Wisher1000
    I was putting together a box of essential chicken tools and ran across your article. I found it helpful and you included a couple of items that I had not thought of. I have a few on my list that you may want to include on yours.
    1. Small jar of petroleum jelly (for combs, legs, vents, etc.) I like to rub their legs with it if I see any indication of scaley leg mites.
    2. Several cable ties in assorted colors (for marking birds that I need to identify later.)
    3. Permanent marker (for writing on bags, or for marking eggs for hatching, or eggs that should go to the dogs because they were found in an odd location.)
    4. Resealable storage bags in snack, sandwich, and gallon sizes are useful for storing tools that need cleaning or for collecting fecal matter, or for disposing of dead birds.
    5. Hand sanitizer to clean my hands before and after touching a bird that may be sick or injured, and to offer to anyone who's help I solicited while handling them.
    6. A toothbrush for cleaning beaks, nostrils, legs and toes.
  19. So Cal Chic
    Thank you for an informative article with lots of specifics. Made gathering and shopping for supplies so much easier.
  20. ChickEeeDee
    Thank you so much for putting this list together .... a "newb" like me needs all the advice she can get! I never would have thought of putting together a first aid kit but it seems like it should be common sense!!! Thanks again!
    Ok, after reading this I clearly need to go to the store! Thanks pipd
  22. Chickenfan4life
    Loads of comments, here, now! :) This is a famous article! :D
  23. Chicken Goddess
    Thanks for posting up the tools. I would definately use this!
  24. Eggnog101
    Thank you for putting this up!
  25. jchny2000
    Excellent article, printing and adding to my kit! Thanks for taking the time to write it.
  26. AlanMc
    I will be building my kit soon. Thanks for the article. It is an immense help.
  27. MemesChicks
    Thank you for putting this together--not only the items, but the dosages and uses. Perfect!
  28. pellepeterson
    Going to look into gathering those supplies. I am a supervisor at an ambulance service and may be able to swing a discount. I will gather the list and look up the stuff. I will subscribe to this link to follow it easier, and then post a list with prices, if you all want to co-op I am sure I can some up with a plan and keep it on the cheap. GREAT STUFF!
  29. AndyCap
    Great article, very useful information, thanks!
  30. Alden Chickens
    good list of items to have on hand- because you know you will need them late Saturday night when all the stores are closed
      GGRinger likes this.
  31. earlybird10842
  32. Marty1876
    Nice, useful, easy, direct....yep, a true winner!
  33. Chickenfan4life
    Woot! Well done, and congrats on winning the contest! :D
  34. vickichicki
    Bravo Pipd... Great article.
  35. BYC Project Manager
    Congratulations! Your article is now featured on the homepage carousel! Thanks for submitting it to our BYC Article Writing Contest.
      Banditschickens likes this.
  36. SilkiesForEver
    Great article!! Thanks Pip'd!
  37. seminolewind
    Thorough and well organized! Wonderful idea about expiration dates.
  38. pipdzipdnreadytogo
    Thank you all very much!
  39. chickenpooplady
  40. mg15
    Thanks to Blizzy and to you.
    A container with all necessities AND LABLED. !
  41. willowbranchfarm
  42. tadpole98
    Very cool, thank you!
  43. pipdzipdnreadytogo
  44. sumi
    Great article!
  45. Chickenfan4life
    It's great! I can tell it took you a long time to do: it's so nicely done!
  46. Mr MKK FARMS

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