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Hennebunkport Coop Design

The coop was designed to house 6-8 chickens and was created from hours of pouring over BYC coop plans. We wanted a structure that would look at...
  1. OutdoorFun4

    This simple design was created last winter from hours of pouring over BYC coop plans. We wanted a structure that would look at home in our part of the country and had conversion potential if this chicken experiment went off the tracks.
    The coop was designed to house 6-8 chickens.
    As you can see my first plans are pretty rough. However, these are the basic measurements. We needed to play around with the framing for the windows and doors but the details listed below are accurate.

    It is a 6x6 structure with 5'-6" high walls. The peak of the roof is 2' from the top of the wall.
    Rough openings for doors:
    The Front Man Door - 32"X59"
    Rear Vent Window - 32"x32"
    Egg Door - 48"x 16"
    Run Door - 16"X16"


    After a some failed attempts to find small used windows locally, I ordered vinyl shed windows on e-bay.

    2 - 21"x14" - These are over the egg door
    1 - 18"X 27" - I placed this window as a casement when I discovered it would interfere with the run. (It was then that I wished I had better plans!)
    The Nest Boxes:
    I used 16"x16" boxes.

    .The plan was a 4' long box with dividers 16" on center. They are also 16" deep

    The Run:

    4x4 base
    Hardware Cloth attached with Fender Washers and Screws and 1" Crown Staples
    Hardware Cloth was buried 16" down to deter digging predators.
    3- 4" of Sand cover the ground
    Roosts help add space and increase activity.

    We used 2nd clear cedar shakes and treated them with bleaching oil. They should age to a classic gray.

    The rear of the coop has a 32"X32" door that is opened whenever the weather allows. It is screened with hardware cloth and closed at night.

    In addition, each gable end has a 12"x12" wooden louvered vent. (Home Depot) These are also protected with hardware cloth.
    Odds and Ends:
    We did insulate.

    No electricity - No lights - No heat
    What we would/might change:
    We would have designed the run to be covered for snow/rain and provide some shade. We are currently looking at metal and PVC roofing.

    What we learned:
    We let our chickens free range during the day. They spend very little time in the coop and run. We should have spent more of our budget protecting the gardens! Next year... we will share our fencing strategy!!

    We want to say "Thank You!" to the following:

      • All you BYC Members for the great advice and patience.
      • Buff Hooligan and CityChook... they shared their experience unselfishly and their coops were our inspiration.
      • Our family and friends that pitched in at every opportunity!
    If we can do this ...you can! Go grab a hammer!

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  1. Acornewell
    I love everything about this coop!!!
  2. tlsandm
    Absolutely gorgeous and inspiring. Thank you!
  3. Butterprint
    I love the shake shingle siding! Very lovely coop.
  4. Ms Jellybean
    Very cute. I am thinking of doing a Texas version of this (bigger windows, more vents and no insulation). Thanks for sharing. :)
  5. Teacherpea
    I love it! We're in the middle of ours, and you give us some great ideas!
  6. ducklingsweety
    do you think that you can add on to make it fit 10-15 hens
  7. PNWGirl
    Lovely and looks like part of the landscape. Thank you for sharing, you gave me some ideas for mine!
    Sheila :)
  8. Groo
    Thank you so much for posting these plans! I've been searching on the 'Net for days looking for just the right coop, and you nailed it! I am planning to build your coop this fall, getting ready for six or right banties next spring. I grew up in Kennebunkport so this coop was meant to be for me (I still live in Maine...some north of K-port).
    Can you please tell me what kind of banties you got that you consider hardy in Maine? I can't seem to get a straight answer on that question.
    Thank you so much again. You have been most helpful and inspirational to my chicken efforts!
  9. HenryD
    Have you considered a slanting roof over the run made of corregated fiberglass panels. Have the panels start just under the eaves of the coop and sloap down to a nailing strip at the end of the run. Have the panels overhang the run 12 " on the side and 6" at the end. The corregations will help channel the water off the end of the run. The color & opaqueness of the chosen panels will determine the amount of shade. They are available from an almost clear to fairly dark semi-opaque colors. Corregate tin panels could also be used. Look at thegardencoop.com for an example of the covering (The Garden Ark portable coop has a good piuc of the type of covering I am suggesting.) Hope this helps as an idea to roof the run.
  10. Gopherman

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