1. If this is your first time on BYC, we suggest you start with one of these three options:
    Raising Chickens Chicken Coops Join BYC
    If you're already a member of our community, click here to login & click here to learn what's new!

How much room do chickens need

What is important is how much space is available when they need it. Whether that space in in your coop, coop and run, or they sleep in trees and...
Rating:
5/5,
  1. Ridgerunner
    700.jpg
    I don’t believe in magic numbers for chickens. We keep them in so many different conditions, in different climates, with different flock make-ups, use so many different management techniques, and have different goals so no one magic number will cover us all. Summer in Miami may be different from winter in Nova Scotia, for example. I find that the tighter I crowd them the more behavioural problems I am likely to have, the less flexibility I have in dealing with problems, and the harder I have to work.

    The behavioral problems from overcrowding could be anywhere from them being loud, feather-picking, bullying, fighting, all the way to cannibalism. Flexibility is not just dealing with behavioral problems but maybe integration and broody hens, predator problems or many other things. As an extreme example, say you have damage to your run where you cannot safely keep your chickens penned during the day. Do you have to miss a day’s work or not take your kids to school to deal with it immediately or can you lock them in the coop until you have time to deal with it on your schedule? As for hard work, think poop management. The smaller space they are in the more you have to physically manage the poop.

    What is important is how much space is available when they need it. Whether that space in in your coop, coop and run, or they sleep in trees and totally free range doesn’t matter. If all you use your coop for is to provide a safe place for them to sleep and you commit to getting up when they do 365 days a year so you can open the pop door, you really don’t need much space in the coop itself. The space available is the coop plus the run or maybe free range. But the more you commit yourself to a specific way of managing them, the less flexibility you have. For instance, how hard will it be to find someone to take care of your chickens when you go on vacation if they have to be there at dawn as opposed to 9:00 a.m. being OK?

    [​IMG]
    I understand that people without experience need general guidelines to go by. There are several rules of thumb to help people get started. A popular one on this forum is 4 square feet per chicken in the coop along with 10 square feet per chicken in the run. This is geared toward people with a small backyard flock in suburbia, not a big flock in a rural setting. It will keep most people out of trouble in a wide range of climates and using different management techniques. That means it is overkill for a lot of people as far as the bare absolute minimum they could get by with, but occasionally it proves to be a bit tight. Still it is a good starting point.

    Some of the things that make up the space requirement are, in my opinion:

    1. Personal space for the birds. They have different personalities and different individual requirements. Some are very possessive of personal space and some can share. Each flock has its own dynamics. There are breed tendencies but individual birds of the same breed can have totally different personalities.

    2. Access to feeder and waterer.

    3. Being able to put the feeder and waterer where they will not poop in it when they roost.

    4. Roost spacing. They not only need to have enough room to sleep on the roost, they need to have enough room for them to spread their wings and fly to the roost and to sort out who gets to sleep next to whom and who gets the prime spots once they get on the roost. When they get on, they may jump from some midway support or fly directly to the roost, but either way, they like to spread their wings. And some chickens seem to enjoy blocking the entry points if there are limits. When they get off, mine tend to want to fly down, not jump to a halfway point. They need room to fly down without bumping into feeders, waterers, nesting boxes, or a wall.

    The more chickens you have the less roost space per chicken you need. They don’t take up a lot of room when they are roosting once access and maneuvering room is provided. But I find that mine can be pretty vicious on the roosts as they are settling down, especially when I am integrating. I find it helps to have lots of roost space, not the bare minimum.

    5. Poop load. The larger area they have the less often you have to actively manage the poop. They poop a lot while on the roost so you may have to give that area special consideration, but mucking out the entire coop can be backbreaking work plus you have to have some place to put all that bedding and poop. In my opinion, totally cleaning out the coop is something that needs to happen as seldom as possible.

    You can help manage poop load by using a droppings board but that commits you to regularly scraping the poop off and dealing with it.

    6. How often are they able to get out of the coop? How often they are allowed out of the coop may depend on a lot more than just weather. Your work schedule, when you are able to turn them loose, what time of day you open the pop door to let them out or lock them up at night, all this and more enters into the equation. The 4 square feet recommendation assumes they will spend extended time in the coop and not be able to get in the run occasionally. What that extended time can safely be depends on a lot of different factor so there is no one correct length of time for everyone.

    7. Do you feed and water in the coop or outside. The more they are outside, the less pressure on the size of the coop.

    8. The size of the chicken. Bantams require less room than full sized chickens. This has to be tempered by breed and the individual personalities. Some bantams can be more protective of personal space than others, but this is also true of full sized breeds. Young chicks need less space than mature adults but in a mixed age flock, extra room is important.

    9. The breed of the chicken. Some handle confinement better than others.

    10. The number of chickens. The greater the number of chickens, the more personal space they can have if the square foot per chicken stays constant. Let me explain. Assume each chicken occupies 1 square foot of space. If you have two chickens and 4 square feet per chicken, the two chickens occupy 2 square feet, which leaves 6 square feet for them to explore. If you have ten chickens with 4 square feet per chicken, each chicken has 30 unoccupied square feet to explore. A greater number also can give more space to position the feeders and waterers properly in relation to the roosts and provide access. In general the more chickens you have the less space per chicken you need.

    11. What is your flock make-up? Adding one rooster to a flock of hens does not greatly increase the required space needed, though it sometimes helps flock dynamics if they have more space. But adding a second or additional roosters can greatly affect the amount of room they need. Often multiple roosters will split the flock into separate harems with each rooster claiming his own territory. That reduces conflict.

    12. What is the maximum number of chickens you will have. Consider hatching chicks or bringing in replacements. Look down the road a bit.

    13. Do you want a broody to raise chicks with the flock? A broody needs sufficient room to work with.

    14. The more space you have, the easier it is to integrate chickens. Chickens have developed a way to live together in a flock. It’s called the pecking order. But establishing that pecking order can sometimes be pretty violent. One method they use to take most of the danger out of establishing the pecking order is that the weaker runs away from the stronger when there is a confrontation or they just avoid the stronger to start with. They need room to run away and avoid.

    15. The more space you have the more flexibility you have dealing with problems or altering your management techniques. That’s just basic.

    I'm sure I am missing several components, but the point I'm trying to make is that we all have different conditions. There is no magic number that suits us all. I generally cringe when I see a post asking “How many chickens can I shoehorn into this size space?” I think the better way to look at it is to first decide how many chickens you want, then ask “How can I provide sufficient space?”

    Some people consider giving chickens extra space to be coddling the chickens. Let’s examine that. If I give them extra space I have to deal with fewer behavior problems, I have more flexibility in managing them or in dealing with problems that come up, and I don’t have to work as hard. Is that coddling the chickens or is that not going out of my way to make my life harder than it has to be?

    For more discussions on the coop sizes and flock management see the Coop & Run and the Managing Your Flock forum sections.

    Share This Article

    Hillbilly Texan likes this.

Comments

To make a comment simply sign up and become a member!
  1. RezChamp
    Thanks Ridgerunner. I enjoyed reading this article.
    Good one. Well written...open-minded and straight-up, clear and concise flexible guidelines.
      Debutante likes this.
  2. MIChickandGuinea
    THANK YOU for this really common-sense article about chicken space. I have read and read about this topic, and I have found two extremes - the agricultural extreme where farmers are trying to get the maximum number of egg producing hens into their barns, so the birds have very little space, and the hobbyist extreme where they say in no uncertain terms that each bird must have 4 sq. ft. indoors and 10 sq. ft. outdoors or else we are abusing our animals.
  3. Foristers
    Great article. Thank you. Initially I built my coop and run with the same basic numbers in mind - 4 ft2 for the coop and 10 ft2 for the run. My birds are "coop trained" which means that when the sun sets they instinctively know to go into the coop to sleep and when the sun rises they come out and start looking for food. While I think that the 4 ft2 per bird for the coop is plenty sufficient for this type of lifestyle, I think that the 10 ft2 for the run is just too small. (IMO)
    So to run down my numbers - I have 9 birds (all Buff Orpingtons). My coop is 8'x4' and the 6 nesting boxes protrude outward from that adding another roughly 6 ft2. (8x4) +6 = 38 ft2. Again this appears to be plenty of room for them at night while they are mostly sleeping (perched) anyway. The RUN is 13'x7' plus all of the room under the coop, or roughly a total of 123 ft2. According to the 10 ft2 per rule this should be plenty for 9 birds. The problem is that this is where they want to be for the vast majority of their waking hours. During the day they occasionally go inside the coop - out of boredom, to lay an egg, got picked on, etc. - but by far they are out of the coop in the run most of their waking hours. As most of you know the ground in the run is completely devoid of vegetation, which happened within the first week or two of having chickens. It is loaded with poop everywhere. While I haven't had any problems with disease, my gut feeling is that their run is too small. My gut says that it needs to be about twice the size that it currently is to be comfortable enough for all of the chickens to be able to move around, to explore and sometimes escape their place in the pecking order, and to reduce the concentration of poop. My winter project is to do just that - double the size of the run. --- It is again, just a hunch. There is no science or statistics behind it. I do not have a degree in poultry science and I have never organized a 5K run for chicken-spacial awareness. I am just a guy with some chickens and by observation I am beginning to think that I understand them better. Sometimes that's just how it goes.
  4. 3riverschick
    good article. Since I needed to keep my birds confined for extended periods (2-3 weeks) due to foul weather, I allowed 4 sq. ft. per bird n the coop for the large fowl Light Sussex. It worked great. I never had any behavioral issues. I do not have roosts in my cop. The Sussex never needed them and it let me keep the coop smaller for the same number of birds because I didn't have to allow for a flight path down off the roosts. . I just put in 4-6 inches of while bale kiln dried hardwood shavings from Tractor Supply and added as needed all winter. It worked great. the birds just snugged down in the shavings. That said, I had a wood floor on my coops. Laid down a layer of food grade DE on the floor. This enough so couldn't see the grain of the wood. The another layer of Sweet PDZ of the same thickness. Then very carefully ( not to disturb the underlayment) spread the shavings on the floor. Worked great and kept floor dry.
  5. Jacob Duckman
    great article. Lots of details. I wish there was one for duck coops.
  6. Elemes
    Good read!!
  7. ChickityChina
    Thank you for this article! A good read and very informative!
  8. chickenlickin8
    I like this article for its honest content. Everyone will have different results in chicken keeping based on where you keep your chickens, climate, flock health, etc. I have a small flock in my backyard coop. They never leave the coop and are very happy. They are given organic layer and I supplement their diet with veggies and fruits daily. Never had any issues of any kind thankfully and I rotate the flock every 2 years. Good luck everyone!
  9. sunflour
    Well done.
  10. mymilliefleur
    Very informative article, you make some excellent points. I can't agree more with this.

BackYard Chickens is proudly sponsored by