Hoop Coop Guide
Master Materials List
5- 52" Combo/Cattle Panels
2- 48"x50' ½"x ½" Rolls of Hardware Cloth (3 rolls recommended)
3- 1lb. Boxes of 1 ½" Galvanized Fencing Staples
2 ½ lbs. of loxit rings with tool
4 lbs. of 3 ½" Decking screws
3 lbs. of 2" Decking Screws
1 lb. of 1 ½" Decking Screws
2- Double Joist Hangers
16' of ½" Pipe insulation
1-50' roll of sill plate gasket
2- Heavy Duty Bolt Latches
1 Door Handle
3 Heavy Duty Hinges
1- 12'x16' Heavy Duty Truckers Tarp (Tractor Supply Company)
100- 1 ½" Galvanized Washers
1 lb. of 2" Decking Screws
1- 24"x50' ½"x ½" Hardware Cloth
100- Turf/Sod Stakes
3 ½ inch screws
1. Find center line of both 2"x6"x10'... mark 4'4" of each side of this center line
2. Attach both 2"x6"x10's to ends of the 4"x6"x10's with the 4"x6"x10's on the outside of the lines. (You should have 8'8" inside to inside of your 4"x6"x10's)
3. Level and Square the base. **(DO NOT install inside 2"x6"x16' joist at this time)**
Cattle Panels- Hoop-
4- 52"x16' cattle panel
30- 2" wood screws
2lbs. - 1 ½ inch galvanized fencing staples
1. Install temporary 2" screws (leaving 1" sticking out) into the inside of both 4"x6"16's approximately every 12" throughout the length of the board. ** Don't skimp on this step, it will keep the Cattle Panels straight and true until you fasten them. **
2. Starting at the front wall (you decide) place 52" cattle panel (short wires facing down inside- long wires facing up outside) on screws (the welds will be facing the ground not the sky) that you put into 4"x6"x16'. Now spring panel into the opposing 4"x6"x16' and also rest onto screws. Make sure panel is all the way up on the 2"x6"x10' on the front wall.
3. Continue to add the panels. Be sure to keep in mind the last one will have to be notched to clear the 2"x6"x10' at the rear of the base.
*** Note: if you decide you don't need a rear overhang/ rain fly at the rear wall, the base and/or panels will need to be reconfigured to keep the hoop within the length of the base.***
4. After setting the panels in, place zip ties 6" to each side of the center of the panels(at the top) to help hold them in place and straight (move areas if needed to keep panels aligned together). ** Don't zip tie at the peak; it will need to be seated onto the girder. **
5. Using 1 ½ Galvanized Staples, staple the panels along both 4"x6"x16's on both the horizontal and vertical wires of the panels every 6 to 8 inches.
*** Temporary Screws may now be removed or driven further in to support panels. ***
2- Double joist hangers
3 ½ "screws
1. Make a mark on both 4"x6"x16's 8" from the inside of the front wall. This will be the center of the double base joist you are about to install.
2. Screw 2- 2"x6"x8'8" together.
3. Rest the 2 double joist hangers on the ground near the center line so that when you install the joist they are already under it. **Do not install hanger yet as you will not be able to spring the double base joist into place. **
4. Measure down 2" on the ends of the joist and notch accordingly so the joist is flush to the 4"x6"x16' with the notch allowing room for the panel. ** Do not cut panel. **
5. Spring the double joist into place (center with the line). Using 3 ½ "screws secure the 4"x6"x16' on both ends.
6. Slide the joist hangers into place at the 4'x6'x16's and screw into place.
7. Notch and attach 2"x6"x8'8" joist to both the 2'x6' and 4'x6' on both front and rear walls.
End Walls- (framing)
***Please note: You will be framing the end wall including the headers the same way even though you may be installing a door on one end. ***
2- 2"x6"x10' (header)
4- 4"x4"x6' (header posts/ door frame)
5- 2"x4"x8' (header post stabilizers)
1. Cut each 4"x4"x6' post to a total length of 62"
2. On one end of each 4"x4"x6' mark a line at 5 ½ ". Mark this line down the 4"x4"x6' 1 ½ "deep on the sides. Then back to the end. This is the area you will need to cut out.
** Done correctly, the cut out scrap in your hand should be 5 ½"x3 ½"x1 ½" approximately. **
3. Using the centerline one the end walls (that you used to measure for the 4"x6"x16') measure 15" to each side of the line giving you a total of 30" and mark them.
4. Place the 4 notched 4"x 4"s on the outside of each line. Level and attach them to the inside of the base frame. (they should be setting on the joist you added after the panels)
5. Cut 4 2"x6"s 58" long. Mark a centerline at 29". You will need this center line to get the angles for the header.
6. With your board lying flat, from your centerline, put a mark at 21 ¼ "on both sides of the centerline at the top giving you a total of 42 ½ ". From these marks draw a line from the mark down to the bottom corner (58"). Cut these lines. *keep the waste for gussets*
7. Fasten two of the angled 2"x6" you just cut to make a header. Do this twice, once for each end.
8. From the centerline of the header, mark 15" to each side. At the bottom of the 58"side you attach the 4'x4' to the outside of these lines.
9. Center headers with the 4"x4"s and attach it.
10. Check the panels to make sure they are perfectly centered and that the header is not springing it out of shape. You may have to trim the very corner at the bottom of the header so that the panels are resting on it but not under any tension from it.
11. To make sure the angled 4"x4" side support braces, hold a 2"x4" at an angle on the face of the end wall from the corner where the header meets the 4"x4" down to where the inside joist and Cattle Panel meet. Mark, cut, and install these braces.
** If the panels and headers are properly centered, all four braces will be the same. **
***If only installing a door on the front, 2 additional 2"x4"x4'8 ½ "will be required for framing. This will be used at the rear opening to attach the cattle panels to. ***
Center Post & Girder-
4 gussets (the angled waste you cut from the headers)
1. A center double base joist measure from either 4"x6" to 52" and mark center.
2. Cut 4"x4" to 62" and mount on centerline of Double Joist.
3. Cut 2 2"x6"x8 down to exactly 8' and screw both pieces together making a double
4. Screw both 2"x6"x10' together making a double
5. Set the 8' double girder on top of the front wall header and half of the 4"x4' center post. The girder should be flush with the outside of the header. Make sure both the front wall and center post are level before securing with screws.
6. Set the 10' double girder on the other half of the top of the 4"x4" and over the header of the rear wall. Attach it to the already leveled 4"x4" center post first. Then level the rear wall if needed and secure it to the header. There will be approximately 2' of girder past the header. You can cut it off even with the Cattle Panel or just leave it.
7. Install 4 gussets. 2 on each end wall from the underside of the girder and the face of the header. And 2 on each side of the face of the 4"x4" center post to the underside of the girder. These will stabilize the girder even more.
8. Using the 1 ½ "Galvanized Fence staples; attach the cattle panels to the top of the girder.
**If everything is straight, the center wire of the cattle panels should be resting in the crack of the double girder where they are joined. **
**3 per panel should suffice. Do not put a staple within 24" of the rear edge of the rear panel. You will need to lift it slightly in a later step. **
End Walls- Cattle Panels
2- 52"x16' Cattle Panels
1 ½" Galvanized Fencing Staples
**Do this twice, once for each end wall. ** Horizontal wires on panel facing out! **
1. Cut a cattle panel to 8'7 ½" so that the bottom of the panel rests on the seam of the base/ frame joist and against the front wall framing. Trim to fit radius, and cut out for door of front. Rear also if door on both ends.
2. Take short end and hold from top of girder (just under hoop panel) and cut to fit radius. Cut off panel where it meets the bottom panel. Also, don't overlap with panels to prevent bulge in hardware cloth.
3. Attach panels after fitting with 1 ½" galvanized fence staples to the framing.
3 rolls- 48"x1/2"x1/2"x50' hardware cloth
Loxit rings and tool
*** Please note: Follow these steps carefully as the Aesthetics of the entire coop will be affected. This is due to the inside of the roll of hardware cloth being rolled tighter toward the inside of the roll itself making it harder to tighten properly. You can actually get by with 2 rolls of hardware cloth and a 25' roll, however you are going to find it impossible to get the pieces from the inside of the rolls to lay flat.
Cutting the Hardware cloth:
1. Using Two of the rolls, unroll and cut 2 pieces 16'6"on each roll - leaving 17' on each roll.
2. Using the third roll, unroll and cut 1 piece 16'6"- leaving 33'6" on roll.
3. On the first two rolls, unroll and cut 1 piece 9'2" for top half of the wall- leaving 7'10" on the rolls
4. On the third roll cut, unroll and cut 2 pieces that are 9'2" long. (one each for the bottom of both front and rear wall)- leaving 15'2" on roll.
**Put cut pieces aside in steps 3 and 4 for use in the later step of "hardware cloth- end wall"
Installing Hardware Cloth- Top
1. Start first piece of hardware cloth (16'6") with the outside of the edge of the front cattle panel. Make sure it's centered side to side leaving extra to fold flat to the top of the 4"x6"s on each side.
2. Sparingly use loxit rings to attach the hardware cloth to the vertical wire of the cattle panels. Starting at the top center, work your way down with the rings using just enough to hold in place fairly tight. ** Do not attach to horizontal wires on cattle panels at this time. You will be tightening the hardware cloth at a later time. **
3. Continue installing hardware cloth pieces 2, 3, 4, and 5, overlapping the each piece with the previous by 4", using just enough loxit rings to hold in place fairly tight. *Again, only to the vertical wires of the panels.*
4. Go along the outside sides and fold the hardware cloth as flat to the 4'x6' and the cattle panel as you can. You may find it helpful to use a stiff wide putty knife or flat stock to tuck hardware cloth into the fold where the cattle panel goes inside the 4"x6". As you get the hardware cloth flat to the 4"x6", staple it down with a staple gun.
5. Starting at the front wall lay a 2"x4"x8' on top of the 4"x6" sandwiching the hardware cloth in between. Using 3 ½" screws, every 12"- 18" pull the 2"x4" down tight to the 4"x6". When properly installed the 2"x4" will e setting perfectly flat and flush with the side of the 4"x6". You may have to back the screws out a time or two to get the 2"x4" properly aligned.
6. Continue to install the other 3 2"x4" finishing the side. *When you move to the other side you will notice the hardware cloth is now tight to the cattle panels.*
7. Trim off any excess hardware cloth that may be sticking out past the sandwiched edge of the 2"x4"s and the 4"x6"s.
8. Using Loxit rings, crimp them as needed (be generous) to clamp the hardware cloth to the cattle panels. Paying special attention to the seams and rear edge. Keep in mind, when doing the front edge you will be attaching the hardware cloth for the top and the hardware cloth for the front wall to the same cattle panel wire. They can be clamped together with the same loxit ring if desired.
9. At rear overhang, after crimping loxit rings to the last outermost wire on the cattle panel, trim the hardware cloth 3" past the cattle panel.
10. Notch and remove the 3" piece of hardware cloth that is overhanging the cattle panel above the girder only (piece is 3"x3") and discard. *hardware cloth should only be flush with cattle panel above the girder only.
11. Now fold the 3" overhang of hardware cloth folding it up under the cattle panels throughout the radius. You will now see why you cut out the small piece above the girder, as you can't fold it there.
Installing Hardware Cloth- Bottom
1. Fold 2 of the 9'2" length of the hardware cloth 1 ½" at a 90 degree angle at the bottom. This will leave the hardware cloth 46 ½" with a 1 ½" flange.
2. Center and set the hardware cloth with the 90 degree fold out on the top of the base with the 46" against the wall. Staple to the base then working from the center attach to the cattle panels using loxit rings.
*** Please Note: Keep in mind at the rear wall due to the overhang the end wall hardware cloth will have to be cut and folded to fit inside hoop. Attach to both end wall and top cattle panels using loxit rings. This applies to both the top and hardware cloth. The top rear hardware cloth will also have to be notched and folded so it can be fitted and attached to the rear girder.
3. Attach the top hardware cloth on the end wall beginning at the 1st cattle panel wire below the top of the bottom hardware cloth. There should be at least a 4" overlap. If not, lower it to next available cattle panel wire on front wall cut 2" above radius and fold over the top. Light hammering may be necessary. Now use the loxit rings to crimp the hardware cloth and front wall hardware cloth to the corner cattle panel wire.
4. Cut out door opening.
** Be very generous with loxit rings when attaching hardware cloth at end walls, especially at edges of cattle panels. ***
5. At bottom use screws and washers or a flat metal strip with holes to secure the bottom 1 ½" of hardware cloth (you folded out) every 6" to the base.
*** Check now for any loose or sharp wire/edges throughout the structure (top to bottom). ***
You have now completed the basics of the hoop coop.
There are many preferences to building and installing the door so I didn't include guidance for this.
Installing the Tarp-
** The use of the 12'x16' black truckers' tarp from TSC I highly recommend. **
1. To prevent chafing of tarp, lay 6" sill plate sealer gasket (50' roll for $5.85 at Home Depot) on any hardware cloth seam that the tarp will be covering. Staple it to the top side of the 2'x4's that hold down the hardware cloth.
2. Use ½" pipe installation to slide over rearmost edge of overhang to protect tarp from tears from the rough edges when tucked under and screwed. Gently lift cattle panel from girder to get the pipe installation and the tarp properly positioned. **Remember, no staple with in 24" mentioned in a previous step. **
If hoop coop is built exactly as this guide describes, you will have 4 anchor points if you desire to permanently attach it to the ground at the corners.
Due to the hard clay in the area, I chose to use the 24" hardware cloth as an apron rather than digging a trench and installing the wire into the ground.
I added 2 strands of electric wire around the perimeter of the hoop coop just to keep predators from snooping and possibly frightening the chickens.
Optional Winter Boards installed on rear wall...
Huddle Box installed. Please ignore the boards laying on the top, they were later used for the two ramps into the huddle box.
Winter view with a dusting of snow...
This was a very exciting project. Although challenging at times due to the bad weather it was worth it in the end. I will definitely be building more like this one. It is very heavy duty and will stand the test of time. I just hope I don't need to move it anytime soon.
Permanent Hoop Coop Guide
Hoop coops are known for being relatively inexpensive and easy to build.
To make a comment simply sign up and become a member!
Page 1 of 4
Page 1 of 4