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Processing Day Support Group SUMMARY of THREAD

By Sally Sunshine, May 22, 2013 | Updated: Nov 13, 2016 | |
  1. Sally Sunshine
    Processing Day Support Group SUMMARY of THREAD

    UNDER CONSTRUCTION

    This is very hard! there is so much information in that thread and I don't want to miss important conversation! Its a MUST read thread!

    AVERAGE WEIGHTS? Or you wanna pickum off one at a time?

    what does that come out to dressed weight with the info I gave you? 5lbs dressed is ok as we like them whole but 6 would be better, breastesses coulda been bigger in mine.

    Dressed weights are about 75% of live weight

    Most chicken is processed at a 4.5

    pounds live weight, and this varies accord
    ing to the meat product desired. The
    following dressed weights are what
    can generally be expected:





    Frugal's Chicken Stock --- A Step by Step Pictorial https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=146356


    http://www.hsa.org.uk/neck-cutting/neck-cutting


    Regular price: $44.99
    Sale price

    You can go right to the web site to get them. Someone on this site recomended it and what a difference it made, night and day


    Quote: Originally Posted by Wax Myrtle [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    I forgot to add, if your keeping feet, you should scrub brush them while in the bucket as well!

    If you scald the feet just as thoroughly as you do the body, the top layer of skin peels right off (it's about a mm thick on the bottom) and the toenail caps pop off. That removes ground in dirt and...stuff. I then wash them off under the sink tap before popping them in the "foot baggie" in the freezer to save for stock making.


    Quote: Originally Posted by Elke Beck [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Wax Myrtle [​IMG]


    If you scald the feet just as thoroughly as you do the body, the top layer of skin peels right off (it's about a mm thick on the bottom) and the toenail caps pop off. That removes ground in dirt and...stuff. I then wash them off under the sink tap before popping them in the "foot baggie" in the freezer to save for stock making.
    I wait until I have finished with all the birds for the day, then I scrub the feet, toss them in a saucepan full of hot water until the skin skin slips easily. Then I peel them all at once.

    I did my last 2 CX and one Red Ranger that had started to crow and was getting too aggressive with the other birds this morning, so right now I have a pot with the necks, feet and the back of the bird that I cut into parts simmering with onions, carrots, celery, garlic and fines herbes to make stock. The smell is killing me, it is so good.


    Quote: Originally Posted by kacklinkelly [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]



    I had the same issues with the dirty stinkyness..... I read and read on processing, this is why I chose to do the "deed" bleed them out and then dip wash them in a 5 gal bucket with 1/2 up of bleach with a squirt of dawn and water in it and then rinse with the hose before putting in the hot pot, in your case skinning. I did two and then redid my bucket, you will have to judge on dirty bucketness. How many weeks till processing?

    Thanks for the clarification. I thought the bleach and dawn went into your scalding pot. I weighed a couple of them today. The smaller one is 2.25lb and the largest one is 3.15lb. (I'm pretty
    sure the biggest one is a rooster) They are 5 weeks old now. I am thinking another 3 weeks and we all should be good to go. What target weight do most people look for? I let them roam around the yard today while I was moving their "playpen" The biggest one walked all around but the other 3 just huddled together. My DH actually picked them up today and spread then about the yard to see if they would forage but they just waddled back to the pen and waited to be put back in. That's the first time DH has paid them any attention the whole time I've had them. I think by big brute of a man [​IMG] was trying not to get attached to the cute little fuzzes. Now that they are "what they are" I think he's working up his nerve to the handling in an effort to possibly help on processing day. I'm not pushing him though. Will wait and see.


    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    About broilers... I found a cool article and after reading it, find the best broilers are fairly local to me!

    Alternatives to Cornish cross!
    http://www.themodernhomestead.us/article/cornish+cross+alternatives.html



    http://www.jmhatchery.com/free-range-broiler/colored-range-chicks/prod_5.html

    "The Freedom Ranger day-old chicks are hatched in the heart of the Pennsylvania Dutch Country. The breeding stock is imported from the regions of Burgundy and Brittany (France). The genetic stock is derived from the American and European old heritage breed of chicken and was developed in the early 1960’s to meet the highest standards of the French Label Rouge Free Range program. Currently, the Freedom Ranger genetic stock is used by most non-factory farm production models (alternative) all across Europe and also by small pastured poultry producers in search of a traditionally raised farm chicken - just like the "oldies", healthy and with a succulent flavor and texture."

    Performance goals under true natural rearing systems:
    Based on the results and experiences of our own flocks and our customers’ flocks, the Freedom Ranger assortment will reach 4 to 5 LBS Live Weight in a minimum of 9 weeks and a maximum of 11 weeks.



    Is this a standard weight for meaties? I cant seem to narrow down any info!!


    Quote: Originally Posted by fisherlady [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Wax Myrtle [​IMG]

    I can't really help for target weight... This batch of CX broilers growing out right now, I plan on piecing most of them out (into leg quarters, wings and breast halves) so I will process them a little smalle , maybe 5-6# live weight. I'd like about four large roasters, too, so will leave them until about 12 weeks for some big whole processed birds for special dinners.

    I am with Wax on this one... the weight you shoot for is pretty much based on how they are going to be used when doing it for family purposes. If I was looking to sell them as whole birds then I would go for the 4 or 5 lb dressed out range, so they look and feel nice and substantial when packaged. So that would probably need to be in the 7 to 8 lb live range?
    For holiday or family get together roasters then holding them till they dress out in the 8-10 lb range works. If you are doing cut up birds for general cooking and stir fry and such then dressing out in the 3 or 4 lb range is good and that meat will be the most tender also.

    For culling extra roos rather than raising meaties... there is no good way to aim for a certain weight really, their ideal butcher time would be based on the breed of bird. Some mature quicker than others. So base butcher time on a couple of things. If you know they are extra, and only going to the pot, then watch their growth rate, when it suddenly or noticeably slows (many breeds between 14 and 20 wks) then you can figure to butcher soon after. They may put on some more weight, but their feed to growth ratio will change and every extra ounce is at the expense of a lot more feed.
    If you are going for soup birds or stock pot birds then you can let them go longer because the meat will flavor more as they get older. But it is also a bit tougher so once again, you are back to basing the butcher time on the cooking plans for the bird.
    The other thing to base butchering time on with the non meaties is simply personality or breeding purposes. Let the roo live and range until you decide if he has the right personality for the flock or the freezer and go from there. Some also cull based on physical traits needed for breeding, if they don't measure up for breeding stock then they are culled and you have to just cook it based on what age it is when the decision is made.
    About the only way to get many breeds to a really large size and still be an easy meal to cook would be to have the males caponized when younger. It allows them to put on a lot more weight and really mature bone wise without the hormones toughening the meat. They also tend to be less active so their is less muscle causing stringy meat.


    Quote: Originally Posted by BCMaraniac [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    why would they have runs? sounds really gross, I would hope to treat my meaties the same as the rest, so what causes this? the breed or what?
    I don't know, but with CX you have deal with it. I wonder if their gut bacteria is messed up because of so much coming through. From everything that I have read, they have little to know interest in anything remotely related to foraging. If you put something in their pen as a treat, they just walk over it. Not the brightest bulbs on the tree. I have heard people say that with FF that the poop firms up, and they seem to not need as much water. My 10 CX that are 9 weeks old(processing on Saturday) drink about 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of water per day.

    I don't use FF, but the feed that I use does seem to help with firming up their stool. It contains a natural botanical supplement that is supposed to aid with digestion. I see firm, normal stool quite often, but still see some pasty poop.

    You will be treating them differently than your other birds, and will most likely segregate them from the others.


    Quote: Originally Posted by BCMaraniac [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Elke Beck [​IMG]

    I have thought the same about the water. I suspect that because they are forcing so much food through they digestive tract that they may have a constant low-level case of gastro enteritis. It would explain the loose stools and excessive drinking.

    As a woman who is, ahem, amply endowed, they have my sympathy on the huge breasts issue. And they do not have access to foundation garments to provide support!
    I don't think the gut can keep up with the amount of food passing through to maximize the breakdown of food. When a human has gastroenteritis, the lining of the small intestine sloughs off for a period of time. That lining contains enzymes that break down the food. If you go back to eating too quickly, and eat things that require those enzymes in order to be broken down....like milk products.....then the small intestine can't break down the food because those enzymes aren't there. So what happens is when that food gets to the large intestines, the bacteria have to break it down and that causes gas production, and pulls tremendous amounts of water into the gut. The end result is recurrent diarrhea. I think you may be correct that there is a low level of inflammation and reduced enzymes to properly break down their food. Gut rest helps with that. Do you notice that formed stool occurs in the morning, and diarrhea later in the day??? That may be because most of us withhold food overnight, and their gut has a chance to rest.....just thinking.....


    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Elke Beck [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by BCMaraniac [​IMG]

    I don't know, but with CX you have deal with it. I wonder if their gut bacteria is messed up because of so much coming through. From everything that I have read, they have little to know interest in anything remotely related to foraging. If you put something in their pen as a treat, they just walk over it. Not the brightest bulbs on the tree. I have heard people say that with FF that the poop firms up, and they seem to not need as much water. My 10 CX that are 9 weeks old(processing on Saturday) drink about 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of water per day.

    I don't use FF, but the feed that I use does seem to help with firming up their stool. It contains a natural botanical supplement that is supposed to aid with digestion. I see firm, normal stool quite often, but still see some pasty poop.

    You will be treating them differently than your other birds, and will most likely segregate them from the others.
    Mine would go from having firm poop to splattering within the same day. Some of it seemed to have to do with how much water they were drinking. Also, a lot of the food seems to pass through without being digested.

    Now that I don't have the CX, I am amazed at how little food and water I am using for the Red Rangers. For 5 CX and 9 Red Rangers I was filling the 3 gallon water container at least once a day. Now I can go two days for the 8 Red Rangers I have left and the mother hen and chicks I have running with them.

    Cornish X's are different from other chickens. I did not know how much until I got these 5 chicks. I don't know if I would ever raise them again because they kind of give me the willies.
    [​IMG]my visions of CX!!!!! you guys are scaring me! LOL


    Quote: Originally Posted by fisherlady [​IMG]

    It was mentioned earlier about the Cornish X being lazy... and they are.... but their mobility can be greatly improved with a few changes. When ours were tiny we placed them in a brooder with the food and water and lamp all in distant areas from each other. It forces them to move around a lot more. We also did something strange with out brooder (which they stay in for about 10 days or so) We built in a false floor in part of it, and dropped in a tub about 16x24x5" deep or so. We filled it about 1/2 full of a mix of sand and wood ash and place a chunk of wood on one end to act as a step in and out for them. We would sprinkle some crushed sunflower seeds and peanuts in it a couple times a day and sometimes would treat them by scattering in a handful of either dried or fresh meal worms.
    Doing this with the sand tub helped keep them moving and encouraged them to scratch and forage. Now that they are out in the big coop with an attached run they rush outside as soon as we open their pop door in the morning and they often spend their whole day outside lounging in the sun, digging for scratch and generally just rolling from one area to another. We did have to put guardrails on the ramp for them, and we have food and water (again in opposite corners) out in their run. They are still pretty lazy, but not total sloths. And I think giving them scratch to look for helps slow down their eating some.


    Quote: Originally Posted by fisherlady [​IMG]



    We processed a few of the meaties on Sunday, we picked 4 who were either very large already or seemed lethargic and were cause for concern for Congestive Heart Failure (CHF) We isolated them early in the morning in a crate covered with a sheet and placed out of the sun and away from the coop area so it was quiet.
    We had all of our equipment gathered and used a couple of coolers to prewash and chill the birds in. As Sally said, prewashing the birds in warm, soapy water with bleach added sure makes for a cleaner process over all. So once the birds were bled out they went from the cones to the prewash cooler.
    [​IMG] Birds resting in the crate....


    [​IMG] We used an outdoor fryer with a black canning kettle for the scald water, it is very touchy for controlling the temps though, so you have to keep it very low and use a thermometer to get an accurate temp. 150 worked for us. The cooler with the warm, soapy water is seen here to the left.
    [​IMG] Our cone stand, we also use a nail into a tree to hang the cone on if we are only doing one or two rooster culls... The birds can bleed into the black tub but for the initial cut we hold a coffee can under their head until any muscle contractions are done, Our stand holds 8 cones, but we only use 2 or 4 at a time usually, especially since it is just the two of us doing the processing.

    [​IMG] Tub plucker with hose attached. Works great for processing multiple birds, but hand plucking works fine if you aren't doing a large number of birds or you have a few helpers. This falls under the 'convenience' list rather than a necessity list. Can be rough on the birds if you aren't doing 2 or 3 at a time, it seems to work best that way.

    [​IMG] The kettle set up, needs to be a stable/flat area out of the wind for best control over temps.

    [​IMG] a couple of must haves for us.... very sharp knives and a nylon rope with a slip knot set up on either end for looping over the feet (another pic of the hobble set up below)


    [​IMG] After dispatching in the cone, the bird is taken direct to the prewash...

    [​IMG] A close up of what I call my 'hobbles'... this allows you to firmly keep control of the bird and be able to swish it around in the pre wash and then the scald water without having to get your hands near the water. It also provides a good way to carry the bird from cone to wash to scald to plucker, etc. Their legs can be slippery and it is worse when your hands are wet or tired. They hobble I made is one piece, so you can hang the bird from it simply by hooking the rope over something and we used it to weigh the birds before and after processing.

    [​IMG] A squirt of soap in the scald water and a few swishes was all it took. I overdid the first one and it caused the skin to tear. Submerge and swish a couple of seconds and then check to see if the wing feather pulls out. When a wing feather pulls out without problem then you are ready for plucking. Also, if you have any unusually large birds leave them till last so you don't overflow the water and end up having to reheat fresh water to bring it back to being deep enough for the other birds (you can just remove a few cups of water to lower the level so it doesn't over flow with the large birds) . It only took a few minutes with this set up to heat the water, but it would still be a pain to have to stop the process because the pan over flowed.

    [​IMG] Toss them in the plucker and let it do it's job...

    [​IMG] The majority of the feathers flush out into a pile for clean up later.


    [​IMG] Here is the big fellow processed. He was 10 lb 2 oz live weight, and dressed out at 7 lb. We use a fish fillet table to cut up the birds, we place a 5 gallon bucket lined with a garbage bag under the hole in the table for handy disposal of parts while we are working. and have the hose there for quick rinsing of bird and table.
    [​IMG]


    The birds are currently resting in our spare fridge, will package probably tonight. The big one we will bake like a turkey on Thursday probably.

    As a reference, most of the birds were between 7 lb and 7 lb 8 oz pre process weight. After process they were in the range of 4 lb 12 oz and 5 lb 2 oz. Very nice birds for only 6 1/2 wks old.


    Quote: Originally Posted by fisherlady [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    Just a few comments.... (yea right!)


    I am so happy you took time for pics for us!! Thank you!!
    These were what breed meaties again?
    I can tell you physically looking at your bird compared to my brahma are that yours looks appetizing and "normal"
    you may laugh but my birds had horrible long lean legs and the breast bone stuck up higher than the meaty breasts,
    here in your image next to mine, you can see how large your breastesses are compared to mine! <bawahhhahhhahhaaaaa>
    here is my yummy bird, but looks weird, yours is much tastier fer sure!



    [​IMG]


    How far back do you cut out the neck?

    Your wings I would even eat, our wings looked gross! as did our legs LOL

    also why does your bird have so much skin? our skin was tight and nonexistent!
    I did cut some but it like flew up and away when I cleaned the bird!
    Sally,

    You're welcome for the pics... the more pics we all do of our methods the more info we can add to the pot to help folks figure out what will work for them!

    Our meaties done here are Cornish Cross... which are purpose bred meat birds from the hatcheries, bred for generations to have heavy meat over a short frame. They are technically cross of Cornish and White rocks, but both parent breeds have seperately been selectively bred for weight and growth rates for many, many generations, then when they are crossed they provide these 'super meaties'. Great birds for 'feed to meat' convertion, but can be prone to CHF causing early death. They won't have flavor as rich as our heritage birds that we butcher at an older age though, but they will still be great tasting.

    Your bird isn't 'weird' looking... to me it is a well balanced bird for what it is intended to be... a large boned and fast rooster who needed long legs for protection and fighting off threats. The breast meat on most birds is a waste of energy, most normal birds put their energy toward muscle production and feathering protection, etc... Since Cornish X have been bred for generations to be nothing but meaties they don't put their energies toward bone length growth or muscle growth, hence they appear fuller and rounder. The skin is loose due to their incredible growth rate also, but it is very, very soft and tears easily.

    I cut out the neck as far back as I can comfortably reach with the knife, stand the bird up on it's butt on the table, bend the neck forward to the belly as sharply as you can, it should then be very tightly arched where it joins in the body cavity. With the tip of a very sharp knife you can push into the base of the neck and feel for a vertebrae, when you feel a bone, slide the tip of the knife at an angle toward the body and it should then land between two vertebrae and you can cut the ligaments to seperate the spine. Once you do that you can then just cut around the neck partway through and finish taking it off by bending the neck backward over the chickens back to reverse the arch and cut the rest of the way through from the bottom side.

    Our wings and drumsticks on our culled roos were like you said, not enough meat to hardly bother with, so they went straight to the soup pot! The birds bred for meat alone have short bones and chubby legs and wings... see above paragragh. LOL


    Quote: Originally Posted by BCMaraniac [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by fisherlady [​IMG]

    Found it!
    I knew it had been discussed earlier in the thread!
    Try this site.
    I think it was also mentioned that Meyers hatchery sells them too? So check with probably any hatchery that sells the meat birds and I've recently seen an add for pluckers and scalders and other processing equipment in the right hand column of these pages, so anywhere that sells butchering supplies probably carries the bags also.

    I just ordered from cornerstone farms....I ordered yesterday, and is shipping fedex today from New York. Here is another place that sells them, but they sell with ties, and cornerstone has the stainless rings closures:

    http://www.nadyaspoultry.com/shrink-bags.html


    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by BCMaraniac [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Are these yours?????
    No not mine, Ali couldn't upload so she emailed it to me.


    Quote: Originally Posted by Wax Myrtle [​IMG]

    Quote so not working for me today. Argh.

    In reference to my plea for help learning to process ducks (and cooking and eating them as well!) I've begun another thread:

    https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/778641/talk-to-me-about-ducks


    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Thinking this guy will make a great pizza, once I bake him with some spicy rub under the skin. Since he was obviously too small for roasting and not really old enough for me to be careful to save every bit of flavor, I removed his tail (and oil gland) when I cut around the vent. Neck and liver were saved, neck for the stockpot and liver for frying and pate when I have enough collected.

    Cone is cut down from a sports sized traffic cone. It's too small for very large chickens, but for medium broilers and what I call stock cocks (EE, Leghorn, etc) it works beautifully. I put a grommet in it, so it will hopefully last a long time without tearing, and it's attached to the board with a screw and washer.

    Note the mudballs in the holding pen. This is after two days of relatively dry weather. These birds just don't seem to want to preen.

    Ali


    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens for Meat

    Broiler-fryer — A young, tender bird of either sex weighing between 2 1/2 and 4 1/2 pounds (1 and 2 kg) dressed.
    The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) defines a broiler-fryer as being “about 7 weeks old.”

    Roaster A young tender bird of either sex, usually weighing 5 to 7 pounds (2.25 to 3.2 kg) dressed.
    The USDA defines a roaster as being “about 3 to 5 months old.”


    Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/raising-chickens-for-meat-guide-ze0z1301zsau.aspx?PageId=2#ixzz2TAU8MF1x



    Quote: Originally Posted by ronott1 [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Sally Sunshine [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Rediscovering Traditional Meats from Historic Chicken Breeds
    By Gina Bisco
    The chicken meat most of us take for granted today is quite different from what our grandparents
    experienced. Today commercial chicken meat production is very different from methods and ideas common
    before the mid-20th century. Those of us who want to conserve old chicken breeds need to understand the
    traditional chicken meat classes and their excellent cooking qualities.

    There are 4 traditional chicken meat classes: broiler, fryer, roaster and fowl. The traditional broiler age
    range was from 7 to 12 weeks, and carcass weight from 1 to 2 1/2 lbs. (Squab broilers would be youngest and
    smallest of these, typically Leghorn cockerels about 3/4 to 1 pound dressed.) The next age and weight group
    was called the fryer. Traditional fryer age range was from 14 to 20 weeks, and carcass weight from 2 1/2 to 4
    lbs. Traditional roaster age range was from 5 to 12 months, and carcass weight from 4 to 8 pounds. Most
    roasters were butchered between 6 and 9 months. Hens and roosters 12 months and older were called “fowl” or
    “stewing fowl” signifying that slow moist cooking methods were required.

    These traditional meat classifications, used until the 1940s, were based on the growth patterns and carcass
    qualities of the pure breeds that were commonly used throughout the U.S. to produce eggs and meat. Traditional
    chicken meats were classified by butchering age because of the special product qualities associated with each
    age range. Even though modern product labels and modern cookbooks still use the terms broiler, fryer and
    roaster, these traditional meat classes no longer apply to the modern “meat line” chickens because of their
    extremely fast growth rate. The modern “meat line” chickens grow so fast that all sizes, even the largest size,
    are butchered before they are old enough to be classified as traditional fryers....


    Quote: Originally Posted by aoxa [​IMG]

    I'd like to join in on this thread. We have tried several different methods of processing, and I prefer slicing the jugular. I find it is the least stressful on the bird, and the human.

    I have also tried:
    • Axe (Way too uncoordinated. Even with someone holding bird down) I found the bird was terrified up until death. It was not a good experience.
    • Breaking neck (Screwed that up too)

    As soon as the birds were upside down they were in a trance. Once neck was cut they didn't appear to feel anything. If you think of it like this: If you get a deep laceration, you don't feel the pain right away. I speak from experience.. I had a cat attack my face and had to get 22 stitches. I cried instantly. I thought they were going to kill my cat, and didn't feel like it was his fault. I didn't feel any pain until 20 minutes later. The theory is this: When the chicken's pain sensors would kick in, they would already be long dead. The birds seemed to be in more pain being touched than this part.

    I ordered 30 meat birds that will be free ranged. They are due to arrive June 28th. I never look forward to killing a living thing. The days leading up to the kill are always worse than actually doing the killing.

    I am not heartless.. I swore a year ago I would rather die myself than take an animal's life.. But seeing an animal suffering? I can't do it. I can't let them suffer when I can take away that pain. That is how I killed my first chicken. We were also to kill 8 boys for meat, and my friend Dylan was to do the actual killing but botched it. I stepped in and finished the job. I did the remaining 7 roosters myself. Couldn't risk him messing up again.

    I am not cheap. If I felt like the birds weren't paid undue stress by sending them to the butcher, I would pay someone else to do it. I do the killing because it is what is best for the birds. They were born here, and if they are going to die for meat, they will do it here.


    Quote: Originally Posted by aoxa [​IMG]

    Quote: Originally Posted by Wax Myrtle [​IMG]


    I hear you there. I have nearly two dozen to do all by myself, no plucker. I plan to get through them one at a time. [​IMG] I might shanghai a friend into helping, but that may or may not work out. Do you have colored rangers or CX?
    Here we call them meat kings. I am not sure if the breeding is exactly that of your typical CX, but they do look similar.

    I plan to let them grow slowly. Free ranging and feeding once a day (after 2 weeks old)


    CX can indeed free range. :) Just thought I'd share this video that changed my whole view on it.



    https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/...ug-gravity-fed-poultry-waterer-sally-sunshine

    [​IMG]


    A Twist on a 5 Gallon Spring Water Jug Gravity Fed Poultry Waterer


    I needed a big waterer for our 26 meat birds desperately, then I saw the idea of this system on a google image search but after some thought, I realized that I needed to make a few changes, because when your a woman carrying a 5 gallon jug of water and flip it over you don't want to mess around trying to align anything, and I didn't want to mess up my water jugs either by drilling holes and adding any bolts, etc. The coffee container can move wherever it wants in that bucket and you can just flip the 5 gal jug into the bucket quick without having to fuss with all that weight in one hand! And its gravity fed of course. We have two water jugs, so I can carry one along to the meat birds to replace the other, then rinse and sun dry until the next day, repeat. Here is a link to a water jug if you dont use them from walmart or someplace already. I had asked for mine on CL in a general sales post, got three replies and ended up with freebies! Thats always a plus!
    The site has several sizes and buy two get a discount, but again local CL works best, just type and ask!
    https://www.gogreenbottles.com/wate...ttles/5-gallon-pc-water-bottle-crown-top.html


    15 minutes is all you should need if you have the supplies!


    SUPPLY LIST:
    5 galon bucket (cheap at lowes, homedepo and WallyWorld)
    5 gallon water jug
    Coffee Containter (I used Maxwell house, Foldgers is red and that IS the going Color for Poultry waters)
    You betcha that's all folks! [​IMG]



    the DETAILS/measurements you can find HERE:

    https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/a-twist-on-a-5-gallon-spring-water-jug-gravity-fed-poultry-waterer-sally-sunshine

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