I spent days and had sleepless nights looking at all of the chicken coops online. My challenge was building the coop on the side of our house. I only found one other plan that built the coop next to an existing structure. I also wanted it completely insulated to help with the heat and cold weather. I did everything myself with no help. It took about a month and half of going at it everyday I had. My wife had most of the design features of course! So Here we go! For your reference all picture descriptions will be below the Picture I am talking about.
Over all the coop and run is 4 feet by 10 feet. the run is 4 feet by 8 feet. The coop is 3 feet by 4 feet which fits 8 chickens nicely. The nesting box is 14 inches wide by 16 inches deep which is plenty large. and there are 2 of them.
This is the lay out I had. Our property ends at the brick wall. And the coop is against the side of the house.
Or peach and apricot tree do a good job hiding it.
the outside door which is 3 feet wide. Make it a lot easier to clean with the large door.
I added the perches out of wood we found, just used 2x4 pieces and cut a solid hole in one side and half hole in the other for easy removal.
This is the Gallatin trap door. I decided to place it in-between the studs so it was hided more rather than on the outside of the inside.
I ran the wire through the pulley for ease of use. I also switched to a 1/4 thick wire more sturdy. This was taken before I put the inside wall in.
Picture of the outside wall with some of the coop walls in.
This will be the nesting box side.
Nesting box side with plywood on. I put the plywood on and then traced the windows and then took it down and cut it with a jigsaw, came out great that way.
A look at the floor so the insulation fits nicely.
Inside of the Nesting wall
I put up the back wall and the south side and then the front wall. I was afraid the 3 foot door would be to much but I am glad I did it bigger.
How the one side connects with the front wall.
The wall the lead to the run. notice how I left the gap on left for the trap door. Also if you haven't found those screws find them! they drill as they drive best screw ever.
Connecting of walls
That is the door leading to the run. I was afraid the ramp was to steep, but even the month old chick was able to get up with no problems! I was also afraid the 11inch by 11 inch coop door was to small, but it is plenty big.
This is the 5 gallon auto feeder. this is how I connected the bottom with a screw valve, it already has come in hand to be able to disconnect the tubing from the bucket, a must have!
The front window.
Framing for the nesting boxes and food and water storage, note I will remove this and finish the side against the wall of the house.
I removed the framing and finished the inside wall.
Siding and trim and window put in.
Siding and trim for the front.
Added the roof for the boxes and storage area, still needs door.
This is the auto feeder it is only 3 feet tall and I insulated it because there was gaps. Note a 3 foot auto feeder for 8 chickens last about a week!
Framing to hold the water bucket
Over view of the storage area with water and food
Doors added to nesting boxes with cedar insides
Tray for nesting box
completed view of boxes
Made a mini feeder for inside coop, while the were younger they used quit a bit.
inside view of tray for nesting boxes
The door for the outside of the coop completely sealing by putting it on the inside of the framing.
the door halfway up.
the pull for the coop door
the tray for the inside of the coop, makes cleaning a breeze, must have!
Another mini water I made for the inside for the young chicks but they seemed to grow out of it.
finished view of the inside.
looking through the door of the bottom of the run.
The bottom of the auto feeder, just used 4 inch PVC. Also you can only have one 90 degree angle for the food to work properly I tried a 45 and it wouldn't flow to the bottom.
There was some excessive cutting to fit the tube into the storage area, but used small pieces of wood and insulation to seal holes.
The 8 inch hardware for the hinges were expensive! but with the heavy doors for insulation made it necessary.
nesting box and storage side.
The original floor plans. had to move the strawberries to make room.
Again the side of the house the coop went against.
The laid out blocks for the foundation. I also raised the nesting box area because of our sloping sidewalk, made it easier.
The back wall up with the one side attached
The tool set up, convinced my wife to get a new saw to get the job done which it sure did!
Close up of hardware cloth that was sandwiched between studs, was probably the biggest pain to do but worth it cosmetically.
Insulation used for 2x4 framing
The roof construction.
Used those joints to secure the roof rafters, wish I just built the framing for the roof and then put that up instead.
The floor with insulation in.
Roof with the trim and paper down
Adding shingles. the roof never leaked by the way!
This is the inside view of the coop door and how I ran the cable through the walls with the pulley.
I did ad electrical wiring so in the need of a heat lamp it was done.
Framing for the doors and windows
The tray for the inside of the coop
The inside of the coop is completely lined with cedar planks this will help with smell and bugs.
The wiring for the plug to add a heater If needed for winter.
The inside of the 5 gallon bucket waterer, used screw together pvc with washers on both sides and then caulked it as well.
the inside of the waterer with the chicken nipples.
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