the bordeaux bator

  1. ozexpat
    So while I was finishing cooking a pork butt roast just now, I started a new project.

    “The Bordeaux-Bator”


    I have a few wine boxes from the days when Mrs Oz and I were dinks (double income – no kids) and while I was fishing for something in my closet I kicked my toe on one. As a fully alert chicken man, I looked at in a whole new light. I thought, with a bit of imagination, that could be the perfect match single styrobator.



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    I got to work.


    I found some left over foil covered foam insulation board, some foil covered bubble wrap I snagged from an insulated box from the hospital, foil duct tape and a drywall knife.


    Thirty minutes later the roast was done – and so was the foundation of the bator. As less heat will be lost through the base, I used the foil coated bubble wrap there and the thicker foam on the sides.



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    For the air circulation I will use a Evercool 50x15mm fan # EC5015M12CA from Amazon for $4.80. Its half the diameter of a regular case fan and therefore should be much tamer in a small space. It runs off one of the many 12v router/tool/toy/phone charger I have horded over the years. The fan will be installed so it sucks air from the bator and then pushes it out sideways across the top of the bator.



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    Attached to the fan with a small angle bracket and a hose clamp will be a small 150W heating element. It will be sitting directly in the airflow so the heat rapidly spreads through the bator. The one I ordered is 220V. As I incubate and do other things in the rest of the work (not just Americas) I have a step up transformer in my house to make 220v but in this instance I am just going to run it on 110v. A store bought styrobator uses a 40w heater. This 150w/220v heater should put out 75W with 110v. More than enough in a box with half a cubic foot of space and a room with steady ambient temps. The heater element cost $7.29 shipped on ebay. It does not take up space of a light and will not drive me crazy if I have to incubate in my room (I share a condo while Mrs Oz is in the Philippines).



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    The thermostat is a WH7016C frm ebay. $13.82 shipped

    Features:
    • Heating and cooling control
    • Temperature calibration function
    • Delay protection function
    • Ex-factory parameters locking function after short circuit
    • Upper and lower limits of temperature can be set
    • Can be used for domestic freezer, water tanks, refrigerator, industrial chiller, boiler, steamer, industrial equipments and other temperature-controlled systems – and incubators
    • Comes with temperature sensor probe
    • Range of temperature measurement:-50℃~110.
    • Range of temperature control:-50℃~110.
    • Temperature Measuring Error: ± 0.5 [like any thermometer, you need to calibrate it and adjust for variation but I have found them very accurate]
    • Sensor: NTC (10K / 3435)
    • Control Accuracy: 1 (Accuracy is 0.1 degrees, and 0.1 degrees per jump.)
    • Relay Contact Current: AC 5A / 220V
    • Operating Temperature: 0 ~ 50
    • Storage Temperature: -10 ~ 60
    • Power supply: (12V ,110, 220V) [wiring is simpler in 110 and 220v than 12v
    • Cable Length: 100cm (Approx.)
    • Item Dimensions:8.6x7.5x3.5 cm (LxWxH)(Approx.)



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    I am including a pdf of the thermostat wiring info.





    121k .pdf file



    I will use a 99cent store extension cord for the wiring.

    The top will be hinged plexiglass with a window stick on foam insulation seal, except for the lower 6 inches where the electronics will be mounted. That area of the top will be wood. Ventilation will by a three ½ inch holes. Two in the plexiglass and one juxtaposed to the fan. Small hinges and a hasp/staple catch with complete the project tomorrow.


    About 35 bucks all in.

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Comments

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  1. Penny Hen
    No donate the styro to me!
  2. Sally Sunshine
    Keep updating! Now I have to find a cool box too! I could use a hatcher so I can donate my styro to the trash man! LOL

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