The BYC forum has been the best source for info on designing my run and coop! I decided to use pier blocks for the posts (12" pier blocks with straps). I also wanted the run wide enough to use long handled tools and tall enough to walk comfortably.
The exterior foot print is roughly 10' x 12'. The roof is about 7.5' tall in the back sloping down to 6.75' in the front. I used corrugated metal sheets for the roof, and it overhangs on all sides by about 16". There is about 3" of sand in the run.
I used solid stain for the frame and started the build.
I used 1/4 inch hardware cloth that I ordered on Amazon; the cost was much lower than my local hardware stores, and they did not offer 50 foot rolls. I used a staple gun to set the hardware cloth and then followed with screw/fender washer combos in key spots on the perimeter.
The coop is about 6' x 6' x 4.5' high. The floor has two parts: extruded metal on the bottom with a metal sheet on top. I place a piece of cardboard as my poop deck under the roost with pine shavings liberally scattered.
Two coop walls, one interior and one exterior, are hinged for easy access to the coop's interior.
The interior coop wall can be held open by fastening it to the beams above.
I found towel racks on sale at IKEA for about $1, so I installed these to hold the waterer and feeder using "S" hooks so they can slide further under the coop.
I'm going to add more pilaster columns (there is one in this pic) so the hens can hop up to get to the coop as well as a potential boredom buster.
Here are some more pics.
Now the run and coop have been up and running for about 9 months. I plan to add:
-An external nesting box, so I don't have to open the "green" wall each day to get the eggs.
-Cedar fencing to cover where the hardware cloth is secured to the frame.
-Make a new door. (Just not happy with the current door, but it works really well; I rushed making the door and had better ideas after the build.)
More to follow!