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Chick Bator Egg Incubator - 9108

Average User Rating:
1.7/5,
  • The Chick Bator incubator has a clear dome, egg cradle, 110-volt light bulb assembly to produce heat, thermometer, and instructions. Use to hatch eggs that you can obtain locally or over the internet.

    Chick Bator Capacity. Aprox. 3 chicken eggs,4 pheasant eggs, 2 turkey or duck eggs, 8 quail eggs. Operates on 110 volt electricity. 7" diameter, 6" high. Great for classroom projects.

    This incubator requires egg turning 3 times a day, temperature monitoring and adjustment. Adult supervision is recommended to ensure hatching instructions are followed carefully. The successful hatching rate is typically around 50% when instructions are followed. Due to many variables beyond our control, successful hatching is not guaranteed.
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Recent User Reviews

  1. Lady of McCamley
    2/5,
    "Good for limited and special use"
    Pros - Small clutches possible, cheap, easy to use, chicks highly visible, can be used as an ICU for sick chicks
    Cons - Small if you want larger clutches, more intensive attention needed to work well, can be tipped over easily, lower hatch rate vs. more expensive units
    I own two of these little "dinky 'bators." We purchased them years ago when the kids were wanting to incubate some chicks for a 4H unit.

    The beauty of them is that they are inexpensive, small, easy to use, and accommodate very small hatches...no more than 3 regular chicken eggs fit in one incubator. So if you are not needing to set 24 to 48 eggs, you can do a small clutch. We bought 2 so that we could set 6 regular size chicken eggs.

    These incubators are completely manual control, so it is a bit time intensive as you do have to fiddle a bit to keep the temperature accurate, and of course remember to turn eggs regularly...but if you take time to fiddle with it BEFORE you add eggs you want to hatch, using toss out eggs, it is possible to get the hang of it such that I was able to keep temps pretty accurately.

    There is no humidity gauge, so you won't know humidity with any degree of certainty, but they are made to keep water in one leg, and kept at the proper temp it seems to keep good humidity. Please note: This unit is designed for indoor use at normal home ambient temperature in order to function properly. If your room fluctuates a lot, then this incubator will reflect that and be hard to keep in proper range.

    On the one full brood we attempted, I was able to develop eggs and hatch a chick...1 out of 6....BUT 4 of the others met with an accident when a child knocked over the incubators and 4 of the eggs fell onto the floor splatting...so I have skewed results. Of the 2 left, both developed right up to hatch, but only 1 chick hatched.

    I use broody hens to do my hatching/brooding, but I like to keep these incubators around for several useful purposes.

    They are good to use to start eggs when I have expensive shipped eggs so that I can maximize my chances...I put 6 under my bantam broody and then 6 in these incubators...check on day 5, place the best under the broody, and then again on day 10 to again place the best under the broody. The eggs left in the incubators are my "maybes" of which none of those left have hatched...so again skewing my hatch rate...but I would not expect anything above a 50% hatch rate with these if used for the full term. (I have had a number of my day 10 switch overs hatch under the broody that were started or kept going in the incubator).

    I think their best use is that they are excellent as an emergency ICU unit for a chick that is in trouble after hatching from my broodies. For that it works swimmingly well. I've used them twice for 1 chilled chick (fell out of the nest after hatching and gasping its last breath with hypothermia) and 1 assisted hatch chick with an open naval and mild omphalitis.

    The incubator is small, so you can only keep a freshly hatched chick in it for a few hours until they dry out, sleep it off, and want to move around....or a sick chick on the mend until they are up and moving again.

    So while I wouldn't expect to use it to keep a solid hatching program going, it does have use for those who desire small educational hatching or an extension for developing shipped eggs with broodies or as a chick ICU.

    Lady of McCamley
    Overall:
    2.5
  2. Griffin Nest
    1/5,
    "Plastic Flimsy Incubator"
    Pros - Small
    Cons - Doesn't have temp control making it useless
    It's a light bulb in a plastic container. That's it. There's no temp adjustment, making it almost impossible to get that 99-100 range we need. Now I use it to grow seedlings, which I admit, is very good at!
    Overall:
    0.5
  3. BantamLover21
    2/5,
    "Small, Time-intensive Incubator"
    Pros - Inexpensive, simple, can get eggs to hatch out of it
    Cons - Poor temperature control, no humidity control, small, have to hand turn eggs
    I used this incubator a few years ago after being given it by a friend. It was my first time incubating bantam chicken eggs, so I didn't start out with very high expectations. In the end, 2 chicks ended up hatching, giving me a little less than 50% hatch rate of fertile eggs.

    I enjoyed the incubation, but this incubator does have a lot of flaws. The temperature is controlled by maneuvering aluminum foil around a small light bulb so that the heat reflects. This can keep the temperature high enough, but it is prone to fluctuations in temperature as external conditions change. Sometimes, the temperature in my incubator dropped, and other times it sharply spiked before I got it under control. Needless to say, it took some close monitoring to not freeze or cook the eggs.

    Another disadvantage is the lack of humidity control. To change humidity levels, you fill the base of the incubator with water or suck some away (in my case, with an eye dropper). The incubator did a good job staying moist enough. Unfortunately, it was nearly impossible to check the humidity, since the incubator is rather small to fit a hygrometer in. Opening the lid to insert a hygrometer and then take it out cools the incubator and creates a risk of jarring the eggs or aluminum foil. Still, the incubator maintained adequate levels of moisture during most of my incubation.

    One other slight flaw in the incubator is that it has no automatic egg turner. You have to hand turn the eggs 3-5 times daily, which runs the risk of accidentally messing up the temperature settings and humidity.

    A last factor is the incubator's small size. That makes it great for a classroom or small-scale hatcher, but does limit the amount of eggs you can set. Since the incubator isn't the most reliable in terms of temperature and humidity, few eggs set means less chance of some hatching if something goes wrong.

    Overall, I think the incubator performed as well as is possible given its design. Managing the temperature was time-intensive, but apparently didn't harm the chicks that hatch. Both chicks that hatched grew into fine, healthy birds with no deformities or other problems.
    Overall:
    2.5

User Comments

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  1. gimmie birdies
    it was hard to keep this the right temp and the cord was cheap and light would go out if you bumped it. I would try with this again though, and I would tape down the cord in a working position, and put it in side a bigger box so it could hold heat. I am all about experimenting and improving things, and this def needs improvement. You can make your own incubator for less though
  2. Heme
  3. Heme
    Unfortunately the incubator you used is more a toy and a waste of time and money. The better choice would be a 48 egg incubator with egg turner, thermostat, and internal fan.

    It is not necessary to load 48 eggs, but 12 to 24 is a good choice. Constant 99.5 degrees and humidity of 50-60 percent is preferred. If I want any Rosters, I lower the temp. to 98 degrees for 19 days and bump up the humidity to 65-70 percent from day 19 to piping. The egg rotation device saves you from hand turning eggs 3 times a day, so that in itself is worth the extra cost. Additionally, since lifting the incubator lid often can cause temperature variations and a loss of moisture; I suggest feeding a 12" fish-tank tube into the incubator side with the end sitting in the water reservoir. Get a 20 or 30 CC Syringe, fill with water, and pump into the bator-tray every 3-4 days. Obtaining a USED incubator will cut your cost down and they work as well as a new one. Always Clean them with a bacterial soap and disinfectant to prevent contamination when in service. Don't wash NEW Fertile eggs either. The new eggs have a natural chemical coating applied by the hen when new. This is a protection against bacterial infection of the ovum. Some folks like to test eggs for air sacks and living creatures within. That is ok after 10 days. Make certain the Water in your glass container where you plan to drop the egg into is 99.5 degrees so you do not shock the egg or cause a crack in the shell. If the egg floats and bobs, your may have a good egg. If it lays on the bottom of the glass, it may be no good and toss it out. Candling may also be a good choice. Have Fun. Lauren
  4. Lady of McCamley
    I've used it too. We got 2 of them for a 4H project years ago. With that project we had 1 out of 6 hatch rate...but the kids had dumped the incubators and 2 got broken...of the 3 left, only one hatched. However, the chick was well and healthy.
    So be forewarned, they do tip over easy.
    Have to do a lot of turning and keeping watch, but does work. Good for a short project but would not use if you really wanted to incubate eggs once or twice a year. I'd get a better 'bator for that.
  5. Cass
    Why don't you beleive it? It is an incubator, albeit a simple one. It has a light bulb, a place for water and a rack to lay the eggs on. I've actually hatched in a much more expensive 'bator that didn't do as good a job...but were larger so you could leave the chicks in it to dry off. People make their own 'bators using a foam ice chest...why can't a $20 bator work?
  6. NYREDS
    I can't believe anyone actually hatched eggs in one of these things.
  7. Lunar
    I have used one of these for years for quail eggs and its great. They are so tiny, they have no problem hatching and moving around for a couple days. I tinkered with mine to get the foil to the right spot and then taped it in place so it couldn't move. And mine had a screw to hold the light just right after I got it set. The trick is to get it set before you actually use it. I had no issue and have hatched over 100 button quail in it. Chicken eggs are much larger though and that may be an issue. I have also placed Serama eggs in it and they are tiny and did fine. I turned three times a day and got 3/4 or 4/5 most all the time with quail eggs. I used one leg full of water to up my humidity for the first few hatches then resorted to a sponge in the bottom. And I stood the thermometer up against the screen so that the temp could be seen and I didn't have to move it each time I turned. I would try to get something made for chicken eggs if that is what you are intending to do. This little bator is made for quail eggs with a smaller size and weight. When I bought mine, it was only $12 so it was a great investment for the number of button quail I got out of it. (they sold for $25 each)
  8. Cass
    Really? I used this twice. One hatch was 50% and the other was 75%. MY problem with it is there is no space in the 'bator for the chicks to stand up. I had to take them out a long time before I wanted to and hope they would survive in my brooder. (which as WAY to big for the brooding of 2 chicks, but they did make it.) The second hatch went under a hen sitting on non-fertile eggs. I laid the thermometer on top of the eggs and it did have to be repositioned every time I turned the eggs, but the temp held pretty well, once I got the foil in the right position. BTW, there are dry incubators, where you just throw a wet sponge in them....I once got 11 of 12 eggs to hatch with a wet sponge as my "humidity control". I think the humidity levels give people far more stress than is actually necessary. I have yet to see a hen with a thermometer or humidity control device attatched. She sits on the eggs. If they hatch, they hatch, if they don't, they don't. (my hens have been known to leave the nest for up to an hour to deal with their own needs in the summer. They still hatch all the eggs....only once in a while do I get a dud and usually it's a late quitter after the first few have hatched.
  9. Cass
    I Agree with Lunar. It works, and once you get the foil right, doesn't require any more attention than a larger bator in a climate controlled room. I got a 75% hatch rate in May. (wouldn't be that good in the winter in the room I have it, too many temp flux's)
    They claim it holds 4 eggs. Ahhh...maybe small ones, the most I got in there was 3 eggs and one of them was from a D'uccle/Ameruacana mutt in my flock, so it was on the very small side. The second time I used it I only put 2 eggs in it and only one hatched. I hate raising lone chicks. I think the small load size is the biggest draw back, because of the potential of only having one hatch and having to raise a lone chick.
  10. Lunar
    I have actually had decent luck with this little bator. I tinkered with it at first and actually taped the foil in place and tightened the little screw to hold the light in place and it has held rather well. I am lucky that my room doesn't change too much in temp, but so far so good. I have hatched button quail in it and had a nice percentage hatch. I turn them 3 times a day by hand. Obviously, an automatic bator is a better deal, but its a fun little bator for eggs that you want to have hands on thru the hatch process.

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