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I always have a ready pen (4x4) ready for sick/injured. same for new chicks arriving (2x2). I like to keep separate until completely healed. my hens never forget who and what spot they pecked. They are bullies. good luck.

you want to get her energy up just like a person who is sick and not eating. the doctor says force fluids (they don't mean water, they mean PowerAde or Gatorade for a reason). Also, any type of topical antibiotic ointment (im sure you have some you have used yourself). you need to stop an...

if u have sav-a-chick electrolyte packs (good for grown hens too), use that. If not, get Gatorade. The electrolyte is the same, I use it on cows and other animals until I get my supply back up off powder.

are you seeing mites deep in the pin feathers? It appears to NOT be pecking order, more of an infestation that maybe the other birds are seeing and pecking off the hens (ex. mites)

any injury becomes a pecking location for all other birds to attack. separate and medicate injured location. once pin feathers grow back, you can place back, otherwise they will continue until she sits and is literally pecked to death. Separate.

separate and keep on paper bedding, like whole sheets of newspaper or towel. place medication on injury and allow to stay in box. infection would be my worry from ground or other chicken droppings.

what is her age? is he drinking (if not start on electrolytes)? severe injury may need medication and would cause eating drop. I would force electrolyte only to her, medicate open injuries, keep her separate and make sure she eats or is given a supplement until energy returns.

have you tried massaging the length of the neck?

separate and give sav-a-chick electrolytes and probiotics for two weeks. all baby chicks should start on that along with medicated chick starter. avoids lots of problems. good luck.

rooster is for one purpose. they are ready around 5-6 months. once they start laying eggs, they are ready to meet and greet their males.

Your brooder should be large enough for the chicks to move away and be what temperature THEY want to be. If they want to be 50 70 or 90, its up to them. 2-3 feet away from the lamp should be a distance they can get to if they need to cool off. and yes shipping chicks does cost some lives. Make...

Always try to save. Keep separate and medicate until pin feathers return.

Its never easy when they are young or been with you along time. I hate it every time.

Welcome. BYC is Back Yard Cool. If you go to the duck/geese area. lots of great experts out there. Good Luck

My coop is my brooder. When they are ready, I just open up the door to the run. as long as it is warm and safe, start outside.

Easy. Ordinances are designed for noise and disturbances. Noise = crowing, Nasty coop area = smell. Keep friends with your neighbors, share the eggs and don't have a rooster.

my cat would grab a chick by itself, but my cats fear the big bird. They think of a chick like a regular bird, then suddenly there are birds as big as them??? My cats fear chickens.

build a coop now and add a fenced chicken run. they will be ready to go in about two weeks if you build a coop and keep the door closed. treat the coop like a brooder.

I have several different types of animals and have had to deal with issues trying to save them. There comes a point, that which leans towards more pain than is worth to the animal. I have raised deformed animals where others may have put them down, to me, its based on pain to the animal. Try...

a draft fence in a brooder is about 12" tall. 2 or 3 cardboard boxes broken down and tapped in a circle or square will do until you get something better. those chicks need about 2-3 feet available to get AWAY from the lamp. If a chick wants to be 50 degrees or 70 or 90, its up to the chick in a...