A few questions for first brooder and chicks

KaijuChickens

In the Brooder
Feb 5, 2018
4
14
21
Hello. After reading what seems like endless numbers of posts (thanks everyone for all your knowledge), I am finally posting on here for feedback. Sorry in advance for the longer post... I have set up my brooder in anticipation of getting chicks in the near future. I am hoping I have everything set and ready, but would like to double check.

Chicks: Our local laws only allow a max of 6 hens, no roosters allowed. Ideally, I would like to have 4, but 6 would be OK too (my coop is being built for 6 in either case). Breed wise I am hoping to find Easter Eggers locally, which according to research and some local chicken owners is great for my cold upstate NY area, and should be easy to find. I'd like to find local ones as opposed to online ordering, but will resort to that if need be from MPC or something.

Question #1: Ideally I would prefer 4 hens. Should I start with 6 chicks, just in case something happens to one or two of them? Chick mortality would be tragic, but as I have read sometimes happens no matter how well prepared you are (and if I end up with 6 hens I am ok with that too).

My brooder is a dog cage that I have zip tied cardboard to, placed indoors where there will be no drafts. (Details: The cage is about 3.5' long, 2.5' wide and 2.5' high. The cardboard is about 2' tall on the side. At the top, the cage bars are about 1.5" apart. I am attempting to attach a picture. Note: In the picture the front door is open, but closes and also has cardboard to complete the sides).

Question #2: Do I need to worry about chicks getting out of the top area? Or is 2' sides good enough to keep them in?

My heat source is a 250 watt lamp (overkill from what I read, but is what I have). If I put it inside the cage, the temp ranges in the brooder range from 100 directly in the hottest spot to 85 on the other side. If I put it outside the cage, the temp ranges from about 85-75.

Question #3: Would it be better to keep it inside the cage knowing the hottest spot is prob too warm, but the rest is ok, or on top where it might be a little cooler all around? I was leaning towards inside the first couple weeks, then outside then on.

Food wise I put the feeder on top of bricks to keep it out of the pine shavings directly. Seems strait forward. Water wise I am hoping to attempt to use a bottle and nipple feeder since I intend to have a nipple system in the coop when they move outside.

Question #4: Is there anything else I need or should consider before I get chicks that I have not thought of environment wise? I am excited, but also patient enough to want everything as good as I can get it BEFORE I bring chicks home.

I'll post elsewhere about my coop design... that is a whole different topic. :)

Thanks everyone!
 

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Question #2: Do I need to worry about chicks getting out of the top area? Or is 2' sides good enough to keep them in?

My heat source is a 250 watt lamp (overkill from what I read, but is what I have). If I put it inside the cage, the temp ranges in the brooder range from 100 directly in the hottest spot to 85 on the other side. If I put it outside the cage, the temp ranges from about 85-75.
No need to worry about them getting out. By the time they can fly up to 2' they will likely be too big to get out through the wire.

PLEASE do not use a 250W bulb. It is WAY too hot. In fact I encourage you to VERY seriously look at the Mama Heating Pad method of brooding chicks:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...d-in-the-brooder-picture-heavy-update.956958/
If you do use a heat lamp MAKE SURE it is bird safe. Search the site and you will find a thread posted by someone that lost all but 1 of their chickens when they used a teflon coated bulb without knowing it puts out poisonous gas. It is what they happened to have on hand, didn't think to read the box it came in for warnings. Put the heat lamp outside the dog crate, you will need the ability to raise it. And aim it into the corner farthest from the food and water, give the birds a chance to stay away from the heat.

The "must have 95F° 24x7 for a week, decreasing by 5°F per week" is bull.
Chicks raised in the coop by an adoptive broody hen. Daytime temps in the 70's, night time in the 50's. Note how the week old chicks are NOT under the hen trying to get warm. They need to be able to get to heat to get warm but they do NOT need to live in the oven. P1010067.jpg

My Easter Eggers do fine all year, no heat in the coop. Not sure how you ensure getting all females if purchased locally unless the seller will take back males once they show themselves. Of course the mail order hatcheries only guarantee 90% sexing accuracy and you can't send the "oops" cockerels back, they just refund what you paid for them.

Start with 4 because if you start with 6 you just KNOW they will all live and be female ;) Generally speaking people who live in cold areas aren't hatching this time of year, more likely into April. Plenty of time to build the coop if you start now.
 
Question #1: Ideally I would prefer 4 hens. Should I start with 6 chicks, just in case something happens to one or two of them? Chick mortality would be tragic, but as I have read sometimes happens no matter how well prepared you are (and if I end up with 6 hens I am ok with that too).

Question #2: Do I need to worry about chicks getting out of the top area? Or is 2' sides good enough to keep them in?

Question #3: Would it be better to keep it inside the cage knowing the hottest spot is prob too warm, but the rest is ok, or on top where it might be a little cooler all around?

#1 If your ideal number is 4 (and good for you for building a coop bigger than needed, just in case!) I would get 5 chicks, in case of mortality or that one turns out to be a male.

#2 The current cage top should be enough to keep them from flying out.

#3 In this scenario I would place the heat lamp outside as it's probably going to be way too hot inside, and it's safer to secure it outside in case a chick flies up and somehow hits the lamp. Don't worry too much about the exact temperature, rather, watch the chicks behavior to gauge if it's too warm or cold. If they all cluster right under the lamp, they're cold. If they're all as far away as possible from the lamp, too hot.
 
I strongly recommend you switch out the heat lamp with the MHP (bruceha2000) & if you insist on using it, not the teflon ones (toxic). As for the water nipples, I purchased the horizontal ones, instructions say for 8 day old chicks. I start off with the quart waters w/marbles/pebbles in the base so they don't drown, then switch them out (teaching them) to the water nipples. It takes "strength" to make the water dispense, to teach them how to use just "peck" at it. Mark the container so you can monitor their drinking. It takes time but they get it.

It's recommended that the Coop be 4sqft per bird & Run be 10sqft per bird, you're "limited" as I am so we don't have to worry too much about Chicken Math :oops: I prefer an even number of birds, no odd man out, decided 4 works best for my 8'W x 12'L x7'H . Get 6, that way you can either keep all of weed out the personalities you prefer not to deal with & sell the other 2.

ENJOY
 
Hello. After reading what seems like endless numbers of posts (thanks everyone for all your knowledge), I am finally posting on here for feedback. Sorry in advance for the longer post... I have set up my brooder in anticipation of getting chicks in the near future. I am hoping I have everything set and ready, but would like to double check.

Chicks: Our local laws only allow a max of 6 hens, no roosters allowed. Ideally, I would like to have 4, but 6 would be OK too (my coop is being built for 6 in either case). Breed wise I am hoping to find Easter Eggers locally, which according to research and some local chicken owners is great for my cold upstate NY area, and should be easy to find. I'd like to find local ones as opposed to online ordering, but will resort to that if need be from MPC or something.

Question #1: Ideally I would prefer 4 hens. Should I start with 6 chicks, just in case something happens to one or two of them? Chick mortality would be tragic, but as I have read sometimes happens no matter how well prepared you are (and if I end up with 6 hens I am ok with that too).

My brooder is a dog cage that I have zip tied cardboard to, placed indoors where there will be no drafts. (Details: The cage is about 3.5' long, 2.5' wide and 2.5' high. The cardboard is about 2' tall on the side. At the top, the cage bars are about 1.5" apart. I am attempting to attach a picture. Note: In the picture the front door is open, but closes and also has cardboard to complete the sides).

Question #2: Do I need to worry about chicks getting out of the top area? Or is 2' sides good enough to keep them in?

My heat source is a 250 watt lamp (overkill from what I read, but is what I have). If I put it inside the cage, the temp ranges in the brooder range from 100 directly in the hottest spot to 85 on the other side. If I put it outside the cage, the temp ranges from about 85-75.

Question #3: Would it be better to keep it inside the cage knowing the hottest spot is prob too warm, but the rest is ok, or on top where it might be a little cooler all around? I was leaning towards inside the first couple weeks, then outside then on.

Food wise I put the feeder on top of bricks to keep it out of the pine shavings directly. Seems strait forward. Water wise I am hoping to attempt to use a bottle and nipple feeder since I intend to have a nipple system in the coop when they move outside.

Question #4: Is there anything else I need or should consider before I get chicks that I have not thought of environment wise? I am excited, but also patient enough to want everything as good as I can get it BEFORE I bring chicks home.

I'll post elsewhere about my coop design... that is a whole different topic. :)

Thanks everyone!

I see your chicks are in your house opposed to a shed or garage. . I do this also, but because my house is warmer then the other options. I would strongly suggest to use a lower light watt unless you want crispy little chicken nuggets.. (BBQ optional).

I would also aim your lamp off the food and in a corner. If they are too hot they will not want to be under the lamp and need room to cool off. They also may not want to go under the lamp to eat if too it's too hot. Check your lamp for a teflon coating.. it is toxic and can kill your chicks. Their respiratory system is very sensitive.

2 feet is plenty tall for chicks until they hit about 5-6 weeks and then they will need a bigger area.

When transfer to coop: I acclimated my chicks to the "barn box" as I call it.. it's a very large box with chicken wire floors and walls with heavy wooden lids to keep coons (and anything else with fingers) from prying it off and eating them. I put them outside during the day only for 3 days bringing them in each night. The first night they were brought in they were relieved to see their familiar box and were fine and slept well. By the 3rd night they were fighting each other and fussy from being cramped and bored. Obviously they were ready to stay outside.

Good Luck :)
 
Sounds good to me. Make sure the chicks know how to drink out of the water thing. You will need to show them how.

Great point. You will have to show them where the food and water is for each individual chick. For water you put the tip of their beak in and for food I usually just tap inside so the crumbs bounce around. They will see that and start to peck.
 
it's a very large box with chicken wire floors and walls with heavy wooden lids to keep coons (and anything else with fingers) from prying it off and eating them.
Chicken wire is not suitable as a predator barrier. Coons can reach through it and rip it apart, I suggest 1/2" hardware cloth. Chicken wire is good for keeping chickens where you want them and out of where you do not want them.
 
Great point. You will have to show them where the food and water is for each individual chick. For water you put the tip of their beak in and for food I usually just tap inside so the crumbs bounce around. They will see that and start to peck.
It will be different to try and teach them with a nipple. Can't just dip their beaks in.....
 

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