Can a mother hen eat medicated food?

[6-Hens-and-Me]

The local hatchery told me when I first got chicks from them that they don't use medicated feed and don't vaccinate, they "breed for vigor" and only hatch during the late winter to early spring months when it's less risky. So, I didn't bother. It hasn't bitten me yet. Not that it cannot but I feel better knowing they are doing this on a large scale.

Ah, interesting, I’ve kept chickens all my life but never given it much thought up until now when I have a broody candidate with only medicated on hand! I usually use unmedicated and will continue too for broody hens and chicks- which is what I initially came here to check. But I’ve found myself captivated by the interesting facts and pros and cons to each! I think il find an article to read see if I can become an expert on the topic!!

 

[debid]

Mine are in an outdoor brooder so they are hitting the same soil the adults are on before they are a week old and while it is still freezing at night. Maybe that helps?

 

[Ridgerunner]

what’s the reason you don’t medicate from food or via injection… or at all? Do you all find coccidiosis doesn’t build up with the right care? Only I might start buying the unmedicated, lots cheaper but can be tricky to get hold of here in the uk

What medicine are you talking about? When you medicate yourself, do you take penicillin, aspirin, or imodium interchangeably? When talking about medicine I think it is important to know which medicine you are talking about. Usually medicated feed for chickens is about amprolium but the medicine in this thread is a different one.

The bug that causes Coccidiosis is pretty common. There are different strains if it, affecting different areas and having different strengths. Your chickens may or may not be exposed to various strains.

Having some of those bugs in their system is not a big deal. Two or three weeks after exposure most chickens develop immunity to that strain and just don't have problems, but if the number of bugs in their system become too great they can become ill and die.

The bug (a protozoa) that causes Coccidiosis thrives in wet conditions, specifically with chicken manure in it. If your coop and run become wet for a few days that protozoa can multiply. The chickens can get an overload by pecking at the ground or bedding. If drinking water gets poop in it that bug can thrive. It takes three days or so for that bug to mature to a point that it is a problem, that's one reason I dump my waterers at least every other day, even if they don't look dirty. And that's a big reason we stress the importance of keeping the coop and run dry. If the weather sets in wet for several days you can have issues but keeping the water clean and giving them dry places to go usually work.

I will repeat, because I think it is important. After they have been exposed to that particular strain of protozoa for two or three weeks they develop an immunity to that strain. Since I introduce dirt from the run into the brooder and I can keep my brooder dry, mine have the immunity they need by the time they are released to be on the ground.

Chicks raised by broody hens are more at risk. If the weather sets in really wet at the wrong time they could get coccidiosis. I had that happen once so I know at least one strain of coccidiosis is in my soil. If that happens and you notice it, you can treat them for the disease. I suggest you use Corid.

 

[rosemarythyme]

what’s the reason you don’t medicate from food or via injection… or at all? Do you all find coccidiosis doesn’t build up with the right care?

I don't buy medicated because early exposure does seem to help them build up tolerance - but as a precaution I do keep Corid on hand just in case.

I had coccidiosis in my first batch of chicks, brooded indoors and then moved outdoors at 5 weeks.

Subsequent batches have been brooded outside directly on the run floor as soon as I get them, anywhere between 2 days to 1 week old, and I haven't had issue with coccidiosis since.

 

[Vicker]

Since it doesn't appear to be opened yet, can you exchange it for a bag of non-medicated?

 

[debid]

Side note, none of mine drink from open water containers, it's all nipples from the start. If it's at all like giardia where contaminated water is the primary source, that would also be a factor.

 

[kattabelly]

and some breeds, namely silkies shouldn't be fed medicated due to it blocking thiamine

The medication in question here is an ionophore; unlike amprolium, the way it works has nothing to do with thiamine.

Only I might start buying the unmedicated, lots cheaper but can be tricky to get hold of here in the uk

Interesting - in my part of the UK, unmedicated is all that's available unless I want to order online (and pay Highlands & Islands shipping surcharges!) The Allen & Page Smallholder Range chick crumb is unmedicated and what's available locally to me but I'm sure there must be others you could get a hold of.

I suggest you use Corid.

If they're in the UK, they'd be looking for Coxoid. It's sold for use in pigeons and the doseage is on the packaging - it's a different strength than the Corid you have available in the US, so the chart that gets posted on here with Corid doses shouldn't be used.

 

[Debbie292d]

The medication in question here is an ionophore; unlike amprolium, the way it works has nothing to do with thiamine.

Interesting - in my part of the UK, unmedicated is all that's available unless I want to order online (and pay Highlands & Islands shipping surcharges!) The Allen & Page Smallholder Range chick crumb is unmedicated and what's available locally to me but I'm sure there must be others you could get a hold of.

If they're in the UK, they'd be looking for Coxoid. It's sold for use in pigeons and the doseage is on the packaging - it's a different strength than the Corid you have available in the US, so the chart that gets posted on here with Corid doses shouldn't be used.

I was helping someone the other day with Coxoid dosage as that does have amprolium. I had the math done, when I was then told by a trusted educator that they should just use the dosage on the package, just as you would for a pigeon. Whilst that doesn't add up to me, it's what I'd go with.

 

[kattabelly]

I was helping someone the other day with Coxoid dosage as that does have amprolium. I had the math done, when I was then told by a trusted educator that they should just use the dosage on the package, just as you would for a pigeon. Whilst that doesn't add up to me, it's what I'd go with.

I've only ever known folks to use the dose on the packaging for adding it to water. To give it as an oral drench (in addition to diluted in drinking water) it's 2.5x the dose for Corid, or 0.05ml / 100g body weight.