Can foot feathers be blood feathers?


11 Years
Mar 31, 2008
He has bublefoot again and I had SUCH a hard time with the vet wrap last time I most likely didn't keep him wrapped long enough. Can I trim his foot feathers all the way down to make the process of soaking and wrapping easier on both of us? Last time the skin under his feathers got really red and irritated because it was impossible to let the feathers dry before wrapping. Are there any featers on his foot that will bleed if I cut them. He's regrowing after molt so many of the foot featers are still encased in shafts.

this is how I had them trimmed last time I treated him. The featers just wern't short enough. They were really spikey
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I think you can cut them pretty short. Feathers don't tend to bleed unless the bird is molting.
Good luck!
He is regrowing from a molt and alot of the feathers are still covered at the base. Are any of the foot feathers blood feathers. I had a friend who had a parrot and they were always talking about blood feathers and if one was broken it could bleed to death. I can just see me cutting into one and Albert bleeding.
They might be blood feathers so cut just one at a time and have some flour or blood stop powder nearby just in case. I really doubt he would bleed to death but....
I am pretty sure your best bet would be to pluck them out rather then cut them. One of my cochin hens broke a few of hers off and she bled pretty bad. I have also had my fair share of bumblefoot and feather footed breeds to relate to your frusterations trying to wrap their feet. I found that if I cover the chickens head with a towel and lay them on their side they stay still so you can sort of lay the feathers down against the side of their foot and wrap each toe individually so they aren't all scrunched up together throwing off their balance. I put a nice padding of sterile gauze at the bottome of their foot where the bumblefoot is loaded with neosporin after I pack the hole with it as well then take the vet wrap going in between the toes. Change every day for the first few days then every few days after. I'd soak the foot in epsom salt and betadine solution every night for the first week as well, seems to help them heal quicker and gives you the opportunity to make sure you got all the gunk out. Hope this helps and good luck with your roo
Blood feathers are just new feathers growing in. Once the new feather is mature, the shaft recedes and the blood supply to the feather shrinks back. If a blood feather breaks, it can bleed pretty badly and make a big mess, but I don't know that they'll bleed to death. Just pluck it out and the bleeding will stop. If you're cutting feathers tho, you'll be able to tell which ones are blood feathers and which ones aren't - but pluck them if you must remove them, rather than cut them.
I have Cochin Bantams. I have never had any problems with their foot feathers. They free range all day and go to their coop at night. I limit the mud from their area as much as possible to help keep foot feathers clean. They she'd their foot feathers really well when the feathers get in their way. Naturally falling out. I even seen some of my Cochin Bantams pull their own feathers out when they get in the way. Never have they bled. The feathers also fall out when they dust bathe, and scratch around. Just keep their foot feathers clean from mud, and fecal matter. Don't mess with the natural way of things. Nature will naturally take care of things. Not only that, the foot feathers serve functions for them. One is for insulation. Since they don't have much size to them, they need all the feathers they have for insulation for cool nights, and during the winter. And on warm, and hot days, they act as fans to sweep air under their bodies while walking which helps to cool them down. Just let them be. Sometime u can do more harm then good.

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