Can't stablize temperature

Discussion in 'Incubating & Hatching Eggs' started by baronsmom1, Jan 10, 2011.

  1. baronsmom1

    baronsmom1 New Egg

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    Dec 17, 2010
    I am attempting my first incubation with a homemade styrofoam cooler bator! I cannot seem to get the temperature to stablize. I have a small CPU cooling fan and a 25 watt bulb in the bator. The cooler is not a real large one, kind of medium sized. The temperature goes up and then goes down. I have small holes to cool it to the right temp, it stablizes for about an hour then drops real fast by about 5-6 degrees. Can someone give me a few tips on what I should do. I want to hatch my silver phoenix eggs, but I don't want to cook them!!
     
  2. Pascal PicklePants

    Pascal PicklePants Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Oct 21, 2010
    Boise, ID
    Where do you have the incubator? Is it in a draft free room?

    I keep mine in an unused bathroom where I can close the vents and door and shut the lights off. That makes a huge difference.
     
  3. Pascal PicklePants

    Pascal PicklePants Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Oct 21, 2010
    Boise, ID
    Also, what type of thermostat are you using?
     
  4. baronsmom1

    baronsmom1 New Egg

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    Dec 17, 2010
    I think that may be my trouble. I don't have a termostat in the bator. I thought I might be able to get away without using one, but it looks like I will have to get one. Thanks.
     
  5. midget_farms

    midget_farms Chillin' With My Peeps

    Apr 15, 2008
    Dunlap Illinois
    you shouldn't need one as long as you can get the temp right.

    It sounds like you may have a draft blowing in though.

    If you do want to run a thermo - this is how I wired mine - but I have 2 light bulbs.

    [​IMG]


    It cost me about $12 for the thermo + $6 for the automotive relay + $2 for the connector from radio shack.

    You can find cheaper thermos - I hear a water heater one will work OK - they are about half that cost.

    *** the plug in the picture is a plug I wired into the set up in order to plug in my two lights. It is not a plug connected to the house.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2011
  6. Pascal PicklePants

    Pascal PicklePants Chillin' With My Peeps

    274
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    Oct 21, 2010
    Boise, ID
  7. gumbii

    gumbii Chillin' With My Peeps

    Oct 7, 2010
    bell gardens, ca
    Quote:that's the same setup i'm using on my fridge/bator... i just made holes in the plastic thermostat housing to supposedly make it more accurate or something... i read it also on the BYC coop pages....


    good luck...
     
  8. Pascal PicklePants

    Pascal PicklePants Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Oct 21, 2010
    Boise, ID
    Quote:that's the same setup i'm using on my fridge/bator... i just made holes in the plastic thermostat housing to supposedly make it more accurate or something... i read it also on the BYC coop pages....


    good luck...

    Yeah, I read that too. It's for better heat transfer to the thermal mechanism. Alternatively, you can also mount the thermostat so that the back (metal) is facing the bulb (or other heat source). Both methods make for a "quicker" response by the thermostat.

    I didn't do either, just mounted the stat on spacers so that the back is not flush to the side of the bator.....
     
  9. ProfessorChicken

    ProfessorChicken New Egg

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    May 13, 2009
    Hello baronsmom1:
    Need more information about the construction of your 'cooler-bator', however right off the bat I suspect there are several problems with your DIY incubator.

    Quite in spite of how "simple" it seems or what you may have read on the 'net, there is a lot of very well researched science behind artificial incubation.

    1. What are the inside dimensions of the unit?

    2. How many air holes are there, what size are they, and where are they located?

    3. What type of thermostat are you using?

    4. Where is the thermostat located with respect to the light bulb?

    5. Where is the fan located with respect to the bulb and the thermostat?

    6. Can you make a photo or two and post them? - I am new to this forum thus don't know how to access any photos so would appreciate instructions RE same.

    Looking forward to assisting you,
    ProfessorChicken
    a.k.a. David Sullenberger, Poultry Biologist
     
  10. gumbii

    gumbii Chillin' With My Peeps

    Oct 7, 2010
    bell gardens, ca
    Quote:that's the same setup i'm using on my fridge/bator... i just made holes in the plastic thermostat housing to supposedly make it more accurate or something... i read it also on the BYC coop pages....


    good luck...

    Yeah, I read that too. It's for better heat transfer to the thermal mechanism. Alternatively, you can also mount the thermostat so that the back (metal) is facing the bulb (or other heat source). Both methods make for a "quicker" response by the thermostat.

    I didn't do either, just mounted the stat on spacers so that the back is not flush to the side of the bator.....

    that's one thing i need to do... put it up on spacers... but my incubator isn't finished, but yesterday was it's first "warmup" with no thermometer or anything... i noticed that it does turn off and on, but no thermometer, i really don't know what's going on...

    Quote:if my thermostat is far from the bator, but in the way of the hot air and drilled/modified will i still have a problem...? or do i move the thermostat closer to the bulbs...?
     

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