Check out my chicken tractor

FeatheredRaptor

Chirping
Feb 17, 2021
88
205
83
Louisiana
I plan to use this to clear my yard of grass to start a garden. Once the chickens have eaten the grass, bugs, seeds I will move it to the next spot to increase the size of the garden. I plan to rotate birds from my 12 chicken flock into the tractor. It can also serve as a maternity ward, R&R spot for wounded birds should it occur, or separate out bullies from the main coop.

The coop/run is intended for 4 hens at a time and cost ~$350 in materials. The coop has:
-2 nesting boxes made out of repurposed milk crates
-6ft of roost space
-coop is 39.5”x48” for 13.17sqft
-draw bridge style ramp to aid in movement of the tractor
-repurposed kitty litter container with the red water nipples holding 2 gallons
-a 12LB open top feeder
-Run is 4ft x 10ft for 40sqft run space (inside dimensions).
-8” tires
-1/4” hardware cloth on the top, windows, vents, and front and back
-1/2” hardware cloth on the two sides
-All exterior wood stained for weather protection
-Motion activated lighting

Thing I regret about this build:
-Sweet Jesus this thing is heavy, especially with the angle required to gain traction with the tires.
-maybe use 2x3 and a slant tin roof to reduce weight.
-make the trap door towards the front of the coop rather than the back of the coop or enclose the front to allow a solid floor.
-need to move the motion detection light lower

So what would you suggest for my next chicken tractor build?
 

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Cool! I also have a chicken tractor with 1 rooster and 3 hens. All of mine are cochin bantams. I have 2 broody. I love to be able to move mine. We built it so that the chickens don't kill the yard.
 
Very nice looking setup. I've had a tractor for 3 years now. It is my only coop/run, so I have a different situation from yours. A few comments/observations.
  • Expect that you will break the ramp eventually. I have a standard procedure including lifting the ramp before moving, but forget it and start moving and it is very easy to break.
  • It appears that you expect the chickens to roost on the two front-to-back roosts, but I'll bet that they have other thoughts and will sometimes roost on the side-to-side bar. You might want to put something on top of the crates to keep poop from getting in the holes and to make them easier to clean off.
  • Once you are past clearing your garden area (good idea), you will need to establish how often to move your tractor to avoid doing permanent damage to the lawn. My tractor needs to move every two days like clockwork. At that point, the grass is messy, but will recover nicely. At three days, there will be some problems with the grass recovering. Your numbers may vary.
  • I don't know what your winters are like down there, but I have to park my tractor in the winter.
 
Very nice looking setup. I've had a tractor for 3 years now. It is my only coop/run, so I have a different situation from yours. A few comments/observations.
  • Expect that you will break the ramp eventually. I have a standard procedure including lifting the ramp before moving, but forget it and start moving and it is very easy to break.
  • It appears that you expect the chickens to roost on the two front-to-back roosts, but I'll bet that they have other thoughts and will sometimes roost on the side-to-side bar. You might want to put something on top of the crates to keep poop from getting in the holes and to make them easier to clean off.
  • Once you are past clearing your garden area (good idea), you will need to establish how often to move your tractor to avoid doing permanent damage to the lawn. My tractor needs to move every two days like clockwork. At that point, the grass is messy, but will recover nicely. At three days, there will be some problems with the grass recovering. Your numbers may vary.
  • I don't know what your winters are like down there, but I have to park my tractor in the winter.
Luckily the directions I have to move the tractor in is the same direction for it to normally close. I’ll probably forget putting it up too though.

I have the main roost bar 20 inches forward of the milk crate nesting boxes but you bring up a solid point about covering it just in case. I suppose they could just jump on top of the nesting boxes the way I have it.

Great thoughts on determining how frequently I should be moving the tractor. I will be sure to pay attention to their time clearing it for the garden to judge the time. I like to keep everything to once a week... might be moving this more frequently.

I live outside of Baton Rouge so it’s wet from November to April. It’ll most likely remain stationary during that timeframe.
 
Very impressed. Thank you for sharing.

If I get a chance, I'll try and find a post I stumbled upon a long time ago where somebody built a tractor with flip down wheels.

You could get a nice set of large wheels from Harbor Freight, perhaps rig up something where you drop them when needed. If you could get them closer to the center of weight for it, there would be less lifting involved. Then, it could be easier to move. The blue lines could be a spot to mount some handles so that you could lift it from the sides to engage the wheels.
 

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I agree the wheels should be moved. I would put bigger wheels under the back of the coop section. It's all about leverage.

I would have a pop door instead of a drop door. You miss out on a lot of usable floor space with drop doors. To enclose the pop door so it accesses the run i would do a slanted run top from the lowest part of the roof. Wire is lightweight so it won't impact the overall weight much at all.

It is worth looking at having external nests to further optimize the floor space. I suggest off the back. Maybe move the cleanout door to a side. Nests off the back won't make it that much heavier. They may actually provide a bit of weight overhanging the (moved) wheels and end up aiding in that leverage thing.

Doing the wheels that are bigger and can be levered down will help immensely with that lift angle.
 
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