Chicken first aid box!!

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by happychick24, Nov 20, 2016.

  1. happychick24

    happychick24 Just Hatched

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    Nov 18, 2016
    Hello I am new to birds but always had animals!! What meds/supplies would be smart to keep on hand in the event of a sick bird?!? I have 2 blue copper Marans, 2 bantam ameraucanas, and 4 EE's! OHH and two Muscovy ducks!! TIA
     
  2. Lady of McCamley

    Lady of McCamley Overrun With Chickens

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    It will vary with each bird keeper, but this is what I like to keep on hand:

    Durvet Duramycin powder or similar antibiotic powder (for general antibiotic treatment)
    Sulmet (cheaper than Corrid and will treat both coccidiosis outbreaks as well as a number of bacterial outbreaks)
    Bluekote for no-pick wound treatment
    Antibiotic ointment for skin care
    Vaseline (useful for all sorts of things, but can be used for scaly leg mites)
    Permethrin based Poultry Dust (for regular dust bathing and individual application) or Gordon's Poultry Spray

    Ivermectin cattle pour on is something I keep on hand as I have had good luck with it for external mites as well as internal parasites, but it has shown to have resistance build up for some internal parasites (some feel it is not a good wormer for that). It does work well for Northern Fowl mites, but you need to treat 7 days apart for 3 treatments to eradicate that problem as well as clean and spray your coops with something like Gordon's poultry spray.

    Wormer of choice. (See comments below)

    A good fish net for catching the rascals when they don't want to work with you. (Saves the back! and is a lot less stressful for the bird)


    Be aware that the FDA pretty much doesn't allow much of any kind of antibiotic or chemical treatment for hens that lay eggs for human consumption. The new 2017 rules will make getting meds much harder at the feed store for the backyard owner.

    Until then, I would stock up with the above.

    LofMc

    **Your wormer of choice will depend upon your chicken care philosophy, whether you believe birds should be wormed seasonally, feeling that worms are a matter of fact in a chicken's life, or if you should worm only upon evidence, and by evidence that should mean a fecal float test not whether or not you see worms in droppings (by then you have a serious problem).

    Your wormer choices will also depend upon whether you want to go "natural" or "organic" vs.non-natural and non-organic. It will also depend upon whether you want to sell eggs (and thus remain within FDA standards), and if so, if you want to sell "organic" eggs.

    It also depends upon how much time you want to toss eggs as most chemical wormers require 14 day toss after last worming, with most wormings 2 doses (first dose followed by another 10 days later). That counts up to a month of tossing eggs.

    If you want to remain FDA approved for egg layers, but not worried about "organic," and don't want to toss eggs, use Durvet Strike III or Rooster Booster Triple Action Multi Wormer as Hygromycin B is the currently the only approved wormer for layers on the market.

    If your hens are for your family use only, then you can have a wider selection such as Safeguard (fenbendazole) or Valbacin.(albendazole). You can get those currently at the feed store, but they are off label for chicken use. Follow the advised pull times of 14 days after last dose. BYC has some good dosing charts.

    I use Durvet Strike III as I sell my eggs to offset feed costs, so I like to stay within FDA approval. I regularly dust coops and dusting area with the poultry dust, and I've used the "No Mite" poultry strips to keep down mites. In an severe outbreak, I've used the Ivermectin pour on, which worked wonderfully well. I did have to pull eggs for a month with that, however, for family use, you'd only need to pull a day or two as studies show that the Ivermectin works itself through the system and out of the eggs within about 5 days after treatment.

    Many swear by Diatomaceous Earth, but the evidence is scanty as to its effectiveness. It is a known respiratory irritant for man and beast, so I avoid it.

    The herbal treatments can help to slow the worm build up, but my daughter (organic farmer) and I (poultry hobbyist) agree they don't really eradicate a worm load. For that you need the "real" stuff. For organic farmers, that means frequent field rotation and bird rotation (removing any over 2 years of age).
     
  3. happychick24

    happychick24 Just Hatched

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    Wow!! Thank you for taking the time to share all this info!! Just awesome! This may sound like a silly question bug if I chose to worm instead of tossing those eggs can they be hatched?
     
  4. Lady of McCamley

    Lady of McCamley Overrun With Chickens

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    NW Oregon
    You are very welcome. BYC is about helping each other.

    I would also add Chick Saver packets to the emergency kit or another type of vitamin electrolyte mix as it can help when a chick or bird is feeling poorly. They will usually still drink even if they won't eat.

    As to the hatching question. That came up some time ago in another thread. The general consensus is it probably is not the best time to gather for hatching, but many had stated they have done so without issues.

    The Hygromycin B type wormers would be fine as that doesn't get into the eggs and there is no pull time.

    I have a good study that shows Ivermectim does enter eggs to a degree and clears by day 6 or 7. So you could gather after a few days between treatments.

    Safeguard (fenbendazole) has been getting some chatter on BYC recently about some birds being more sensitive to it and some members have reported problems. It is also known to cause some oddity in feather growth if molting hens are wormed with it. For those reasons, I would not hatch with eggs after worming with it until after the pull time.

    LofMc
     
  5. happychick24

    happychick24 Just Hatched

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    Nov 18, 2016
    Great!! I guess it would be worth a shot then... If the eggs would only be tossed anyways and the proper wormer used! Thanks again
     

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