Color fade

tpostfarm

Hatching
Jul 28, 2020
3
1
8
Morning. Some questions; first, I read sunlight will fade the coloration of red goldens. Is that true, how much color loss, and is it permanent? Second, is "broody"really bred out of today's birds and most folks hatch their eggs instead their pheasants? Lastly, the dreaded country living nemesis- the mouse and rat. Any new rodent elimination ideas?
Aviary and run under construction and 5 birds (2M, 3F red goldens) coming end of next month.
Thanks, Tom in Texas
 
Morning. Some questions; first, I read sunlight will fade the coloration of red goldens. Is that true, how much color loss, and is it permanent? Second, is "broody"really bred out of today's birds and most folks hatch their eggs instead their pheasants? Lastly, the dreaded country living nemesis- the mouse and rat. Any new rodent elimination ideas?
Aviary and run under construction and 5 birds (2M, 3F red goldens) coming end of next month.
Thanks, Tom in Texas
Howdy Tom,
The sun light (UV rays) will fade the color on all birds. When they molt the new feathers will be bright and fresh.
Providing indirect sun light will help the feathers to keep their color but even with indirect light the colors will fade a little, just not as much as direct sun light. Lighter colored birds seem to fade worse than darker colored birds...from my experince, the Red Goldens cape fades the most noticeably, where as the Yellow Goldens and Peach will have feather color fading over the entire body.

For the most part, 'broodyness' has been bred out of captive raised pheasants. Every once in awhile, you may find one that will go broody...there are always exceptions. I've had some that went broody but quit half way through or actually hatched a clutch but abandoned the chicks after hatching.

The only way to lessen the mouse and rat pest problem is to completely enclose the enclosure in 1/2" HC and no gapes greater than 1/4" in doors or openings to the enclosure. Also, a 2' apron of 1/2" HC covered with concrete around the entire perimeter of the enclosure will help but it seems they are determined to get in and will, even with the extreme prevention measures, they are very efficient at tunneling!

What are the dimensions of the enclosure your building?

HTH
 
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Thanks Sean. Glad to learn the colors return after molt.
My primary enclosure is 10x10 with short "run" enclosure of 5x12. They are separated by a door so grumpy males can be separated. About a foot a of wire skirts the bottom and part of the roof is corrugated fiberglass for those rainy days. Pea gravel and grass floor, 1" chicken wire sides, and 1" plastic net for some of the top.
Thanks again Sean
 
160 sq.ft. is on the small side...300 sq.ft. would be better. Most likely the two cock birds being together with the hens, is an invitation to a blood bath. They might get along for a little while then it will turn into a full scale war between the two! One or both might lose the battle. Would be better to seperate them into separate pens, a pair in one and a trio in the other...or only get one cock bird.

Also, plastic/nylon netting will keep your birds in but predators can easily get into the enclosure and 'wipe out' your entire flock. Even the 1" chicken wire will not keep predators out!


I'm not being critical of your plans but trying to give you sound advice to protect your investment, your birds. Better to do your research and find out what works and what doesn't work, than have to learn the hard way!...been there, done that!
HTH
 
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