Consider making a "weasel box" for your mouse and rat problems.

[paneubert]

I was surfing around on YouTube, and came across the topic of "Weasel Boxes". Seems quite a few weasel and mink trappers use a standard wooden rat trap in a box versus a leg hold trap that you might imagine they would use for fur trapping. Got me to thinking about how this could also work for rats.

Felt crafty, so I made some today for a couple of the rat traps I have been setting recently. I figure at the very least it will keep the bait dry and allow for wider variety in bait options. Makes it harder to see if it has caught anything, but that is ok. Bait goes in the back, not on the trigger of the trap. Right now I have a pile of sunflower seeds in the rear, and some peanut butter smeared on the back wall and in the two back holes that are covered with wire. Couldn't do something like that with a normal rat trap.

Two holes covered by wire are meant to allow the smell of the bait to get out of the box and draw in the animal. They try to figure out how to get to it and go thru the front door. BAM! Dead rat/weasel/mink.

My entry holes are not as high on the front as recommended for a "real" weasel box, but since I am targeting rats and mice, I am not worried about it.

I haven't measured the dimensions of a smaller mouse trap, but I wonder if I could fit two side by side if I was targeting mice instead of rats. I mean.....the rat trap will get mice as well, but it is a little overkill.

 

[chrissynemetz]

Hmmm, let us know how well these worked....

 

[15WildTurkey]

I like it. Sort of a chute to the trap.
No escape varmint!!

 

[WthrLady]

I was surfing around on YouTube, and came across the topic of "Weasel Boxes". Seems quite a few weasel and mink trappers use a standard wooden rat trap in a box versus a leg hold trap that you might imagine they would use for fur trapping. Got me to thinking about how this could also work for rats.

Felt crafty, so I made some today for a couple of the rat traps I have been setting recently. I figure at the very least it will keep the bait dry and allow for wider variety in bait options. Makes it harder to see if it has caught anything, but that is ok. Bait goes in the back, not on the trigger of the trap. Right now I have a pile of sunflower seeds in the rear, and some peanut butter smeared on the back wall and in the two back holes that are covered with wire. Couldn't do something like that with a normal rat trap.

Two holes covered by wire are meant to allow the smell of the bait to get out of the box and draw in the animal. They try to figure out how to get to it and go thru the front door. BAM! Dead rat/weasel/mink.

My entry holes are not as high on the front as recommended for a "real" weasel box, but since I am targeting rats and mice, I am not worried about it.

I haven't measured the dimensions of a smaller mouse trap, but I wonder if I could fit two side by side if I was targeting mice instead of rats. I mean.....the rat trap will get mice as well, but it is a little overkill.

i just make tiny ones for mouse traps, for in the coop and run.
I use larger ones in the acreage for ground squirrels, mink/weasels with rat traps in them.

 

[WthrLady]

If you put wire mesh over your back holes it will keep mice from going in and triggering your larger traps or stealing bait. Mice can fit through a dime size hole.