Cooler bator water heater thermostat

[Spiveyscorner67]

I made a rubbermade bator on 12-26, following Rushlane instructions,wired,plug in ,and now It will not cycle off. Changed from 40 wtt to 25, then to 60, moved W H T front -top-side-back . I placed wht about 1" from lite bulb when made, mounted with velcro. I have re wired the #1 & # 2 wires. Set temp about 100* 120* 90* still does not go off.
What can I do to get this thing to shut off at 99*? or close ...... I let it run to 121* before I unpluged.HOW TO FIX THIS any thoughts?

Going to get waffer assembley today,but I wanted to build this and have it work Thanks

 

[Fred's Hens]

Sounds as if you do not have the thermostat wired properly into the lighting circuit.

Perhaps the light is powered regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed. The thermostat's purpose, of course, is to break and close the power circuit to the light bulb(s).

 

[Spiveyscorner67]

Thanks, I just re wired the thermostat again, I am using pink wire for g daughter and I so one was solid wiring inside and I replaced it with the multiple wire like other strand. Don't know if this will make a difference, but trying again.​

 

[Spiveyscorner67]

#1 screw (on left at end if thermostat) wired into electric( looks like neg side) of extension cord. #2 screw (on rt side by where holes are drilled) into white light cords. Temp is @112* without going off.

 

[Fred's Hens]

Let me just explain the wiring this way.

The lamp cord, providing power from the wall, has a black wire and a white wire. If you brought the white and black directly to the light socket, it would light it continually, as long as you keep it plugged in.

The purpose of the thermostat is to interrupt the constant flow of juice.

The white wire should continue continuously from the wall supply right through to the light socket.

The black wire, however, needs to be broken or interrupted by the thermostat. Black from wall to thermostat, then black again from thermostat to light bulb.

That's all there is to it. If the thermostat works at all, and there's no reason to think it doesn't, it will interrupt and break power, on/off, on/off by "breaking black" as the thermostat shorts then connects, shorts and then re-connects, over and over, as it cycles.

Hope that helps.

 

[Spiveyscorner67]

O-kay, I will make sure the white wire from light socket (2 sockets) is connected to the electricity and black wire to itself with the thermostat wire.Thanks for your help

 

[Spiveyscorner67]

rewired: watched wiring a cooler bator again( about 20 times and took notes)

thermostat got to 116 * and still did not cycle off,continues to run and it is set at 95-100*. I must have a bad thermostat.
Ordered wafer X2 and I am going to make another bator only larger,since I have all the stuff.

I sure do hate to give up on the W H T tho,maybe I need to change my pink wire out and use extension cord wire !!!!!!!!! Thanks for all your help

 

[Dcat]

I built the Sam incubator. The only issue I had was wiring wiring thermostat wrong and then looked at the video more closely. I use a 25w farthest from the thermostat and a 15w next to thermostat. I had to adjust mine until my thermometer stayed at the temp I wanted not at what the thermostat says. It stays a steady 100 and shuts on and off fine. He has two that I've seen and I watched the one that was easier for me. This is a pic of my wiring hope it helps. White wires connect to the top connector on the thermostat. Also you could try emailing him, he is a really nice guy. I've Spoken to him through email a few times to thank him and ask a troubleshooting question.

 

[Dcat]

whoops, here's the pic

 

[Dcat]

This is the one that helped me most. I would pause it a lot to really look at the wiring.